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Hey All,



I have wearied of recieving single digit salutes from drivers in the opposing lanes from not having a low beam on my recently aquired 82 GL1100, so I won one on Ebay last night and now plan to replace it. Are there any tricky parts to replacing it. I replaced the headlight on my former 91 nighthawk and am a decent shade-tree mechanic, but I'm not ashamed to ask first either. The replacement is off of an 82 as well and it even has a chrome visor as a nice little upgrade.



Thanksin advance,

Sterling

Green tunnels and no stop-signs...
 

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Unscrew the headlight adjusting knob on the inside of the fairing all the way until the headlight falls out. Be ready to catch it. Once you have the headlight assembly in your paws, it'll become obvious how to take out the bulb. But it is a little odd how the headlight assembly is mounted.

This is ASSUMING you have the Interstate or Aspencade model bike with the Hondaline fairing. They are the most common.

Raymond
 

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It's easy enough. When you remove the plastic knob there is a nut holding the lamp in. Remove that and the headlamp will fall out.
 

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Thanks! I purchased the entire assembly, I beilieve, so this should be a snap.... (I casually state as I remove the headlight and my bike totally disassembles itself into a tidy pile.):)
 

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you mention that it is high beam... probably all you needed to replace was the inside bulb, not the whole light assembly, you still have to take it off to get at it however.
 

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Only had mine off once, forgot about that nut. Knew it was only one nut / bolt holding in all on.

Raymond
 

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Just inherited a GL1100 Aspencade with a Clymer's engine manual, but no fairing disassembly instructions. Attempting your explanation of headlight disassembly worked exactly as described, because the adjustment knob threads through to the assembly, and the assembly is threaded on the rider's side with a 17mm nut. Ok, I undid the nut and everything came out, but here's a problem. Since I have to put the assembly back on before I can thread the adjustment knob, how do I hold the vertical adjustment spring back in place without being able to put my hands in there? I left the spring off for now. It's not that important.However, while I was trying to find a way to get behind the headlight, I sadly decided to unscrew the clock, radio, and VDO guage panel. As I was doing so, I heard the nut or retainer (whichever it is) fall INSIDE the fairing, so there is nothing to thread the screws back onto. My guages are now dangling by the top screws. Aren't Newbies fun to watch?Am I correct in assuming that I will need to remove and disassemble the fairing to get inside it and retrieve the retainers? It seems the fairing is sealed and comparmentalized everywhere.If so, how difficult is it to remove? And which bolts hold it on? How difficult is it to find the right wiring harness connectors to remove?I don't mind disassembling the fairing, as I want to know how it all goes together, but I don't want to remove any more HW than I have to to get it off the bike.Who knows? Once I remove it, I might find I like it better naked in the San Diego sun. . . at least until winter.-Goldilox
 

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Before you disassemble anything else, get a mechanics magnet. Strong magnet on the end of a telescoping stick, available at most auto parts stores. Pull both turn signals out and move as many of the wire out of your way as possible. Run the magnet down inside the fairing and see what you can fish out.
 

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That's a great idea. However, I WANT to remove the fairing. Any hints on that endeavor? Looking over the HW under the fairing, it's hard to determine which bolts remove the fairing and which ones are linked to something else.
 

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It is advisable to have another person around when you go to take the fairing off. Youcan do it by yourself but it can get a littlecumbersome.

Disconnect the wiring harness on the left side. Remove both lowers. Thenyou will see two mounting bolts sticking downward on both sides towards the rear of the fairing. Just start taking the nuts and bolts off all the way around. The mounting bolts on the right hand(sitting on bike) also hold the amplifier for your sound system so when you finally tip the fairing foward, the amp will fall to the front of the fairing. Not good. This is where the extra person can be handy. After you have all of the bolts removed have your helper lift the fairing up to where you can put the nuts back on the amp studs. Then just slide it foward and off the bike. It doesn't weigh a lot.

As far as your headlight, probably just a bad bulb. Remeber to NOT touch the new bulb when you put it in.Either use a thin clothglove or a paper towel to hold the new bulb when installing. I guess the oil on your finger will cause thenew bulbto fail early.It's a H-4 bulb and you can get them at any auto store. Just stay with the 55/65 watt range and you'll be fine. Any higher than that and you run the risk of melting something.

Hobie
 

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Hi Goldilox :waving:Welcome to the best Goldwing Forum on the net. :clapper:
:leprechaun: :18red: :leprechaun:
 

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I guess so. If I had come here first, I would not have the ordeal I have set myself up for in the next couple days.Since I removed the top guage panel and its retainers fell down into the fairing, I now need to take it off, open it up, retrieve the nuts (or retainers, whichever they are), reattach the guages, and replace the fairing. Sounds like fun, doesn't it!
 

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I now need to take it off, open it up,
Goldilox, the fairing isn't really made to be opened up. It can be done but that would require separation of the inner and outer shells andis a chore you really don't want to get into. You can access through the turn signal holes or the storage area holes.
 

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Thanks Jack. If I can find the retainers for the guage panel, who do I then get it reinstalled? The retainers go behind the fairing panel.I aleady tried screwing the panel back on, but the screws, of course, just spin freely.There must be a way to get it attached again.-Goldiox
 

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After you fish the back up nuts out of the bottom of the fairing, (if they are original they will be little wingnuts) run the screw in from the gauge side and run your hand through the turn signal hole to put the back up nut on the screw. I cannot remember whether this can be done on the left screw without removing the component terminal box. If you will send me your email address in a private message, I'll send the installation manuals for the radio gear and you cansee how it all goes together.
 

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I wasn't able to fish any nuts out of the wire mess, so I went to Tru-value and replaced them. All the Home Depots and Lowe's in the world will never replace the good old fashioned HW store for service and selection.$5.25 and I'm back on the road again!Thanks everyone for the help and encouragement.After five years at the Chromeheads.org site for my R1200C, I'm glad to have found similar fellowship and wisdom here.
 

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We're all glad it worked out. Help is what we're here for, never hesitate to ask.
 
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