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I am getting a 1993 1500. Left front fork seal leaks alittle. Figure better to replace both at same time and be done with it. I don't have a spring decompression tool. Last time was a 1200 aspencade and muscle. I almost ate the tube cap and had to chase it. Looking for a easier way to do things. Intend get a decompression tool lol not as strong or as stupid as I was. Is there a better way not requiring the disassembly of the whole front end?
 

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I am getting a 1993 1500. Left front fork seal leaks alittle. Figure better to replace both at same time and be done with it. I don't have a spring decompression tool. Last time was a 1200 aspencade and muscle. I almost ate the tube cap and had to chase it. Looking for a easier way to do things. Intend get a decompression tool lol not as strong or as stupid as I was. Is there a better way not requiring the disassembly of the whole front end?
Well, I suppose you can do that but you still have to pull the fork tubes off the bike. Trouble is, how do you get the old seals out with out using the fork tube as a ram? You could make your own compressor I suppose. There are several HOW-TO's on different Gold Wing Sites.

The first time I took a fork apart, I left the fork installed on the bike and then I used a speed handle with the appropriate sized socket to remove the top nut. Then I removed the fork and did what needed to be done. I replaced seals and bushings and oil and reinstalled it on the bike. Then I re-installed the springs and top nut. Worked for me.

Be careful, you can easily damage the fine internal threads in the fork tube if you are not paying attention.

One more thing, try using a Sealmate first. If you had not heard of them look them up in your favorite search engine.
 

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when attempting to screw any fine thread cap onto a bolt, tube, etc.
Always turn it backwards so you can feel the threads drop down into the proper groove.

if you don't you can start it cross-threaded and not know it until the damage is done.
 

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What I do when trying to figure out where tube and cap fit for reassembly, before putting the spring in, I will test fit the fork cap to the tube and use a magic marker to make s mark on both the cap and the tube. This helps me line it up easier. Stock springs are hard enough but if you have Progressive Springs. They are a real bear to get the cap back on. What I have done also when actually reinstalling the fork cap, I will fit the fork tube back into the triple tree and tighten the lower triple tree bolts. Then I will rig a strap onto both sides of handlebars to go around behind me. I then stand on the drivers pegs and with the strap behind me and helping to support me, it helps me to get enough downward pressure to get the fork caps back on. Looks a little goofy when I'm doing it but it works. The GL1800 caps are a bit easier to get back on even with Progressive springs...
 

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when attempting to screw any fine thread cap onto a bolt, tube, etc.
Always turn it backwards so you can feel the threads drop down into the proper groove.

if you don't you can start it cross-threaded and not know it until the damage is done.
when attempting to screw any fine thread cap onto a bolt, tube, etc.
Always turn it backwards so you can feel the threads drop down into the proper groove.

if you don't you can start it cross-threaded and not know it until the damage is done.
Good tip. I do that even with sheet metal screws into plastic holes. Lots of them on the Gold Wing.
 
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You can remove the lowers and replace the seals without removing the caps, easy. Problem is getting the oil back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lol would be to have a zert fitting to pump oil back into fork tube like on sealed bearings
 

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If his 93 has the Schrader valve in the top cap. To add oil unscrew the whole valve and use a very small funnel.
I used a rod to measure the oil height in fork. If I remember correctly I had level set to 16-1/4" from top of Schrader valve hole in cap to top of oil level with Progressive springs. With jack under engine so front wheel off ground. 10w oil.
It takes hours for oil to drain down the springs for accurate reading. You can get them perfectly even with patience.
I could get the Progressives in and out with my homemade t-handle but not the OEM springs. I didn't take them out unless I had to.
I had bought caps with the valves in them. I didn't feel like drilling and tapping the original caps for Schrader valves .
 
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