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The suspension on my Wing was getting pretty bad. So I decided to replace the springs with Progressive Suspension springs.

Here is how I did it.

I purchased a 2 inch floor flange from Home Depot. About $13. I also purchased some threaded rod. About $4. Along with a few hardened nuts and some steel stock I had laying around I built a tool to compress the shocks.

Building the Tool;

The 2 inch floor flange has a tapered opening to the threaded barrel. With the barrel cut off the flange "donut" is a perfect fit for the top of the shock, and the tapered opening is great for kelping to keep the shock in position.

Here is a shot of the floor flange. The threaded barrel of the flange has already been cut off but is sitting there to give an idea of what it looks like.




Here is a shot of the other side showing the tapered opening.

 

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Next I drilled two holes through the top of my work bench (It already has holes in it for rebuilding the front forks. I may do a write up on that as well later). These holes coincide with two bolt holes in the "donut".



I then drilled corresponding holes in a piece of one by four that I cut a trough in. This will act as a rest for the bottom of the shaft of the shock. It's cut pretty rough but it need not be pretty to work.

 

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Next I cut two lengths of threaded rod. These are 16 and one eighth inches long. I then plug welded self lacking nuts to one end of each rod.



Close up of the plug welded nuts. I ground them off flat after welding.

 

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It all fits together like so...



Using apiece of flat stock I had on hand I built a T bar. This is used to draw the the threaded rods down through the work bench top evenly.

I drilled three holes in it. Two corresponding with the holes in th e"donut", the base and the work bench top.

And one in the center. The center hole I welded a self locking flanged bolt to. Which accepts a three inch bolt.

 

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I also had a slice of round stock on hand for the next part of the tool but square stock could be used. I drilled a divit in it for the bolt to rest in. (yeah I know it's off center) This part is to keep the bolt from chewing into the bottom of the work bench top.



Fitting of the T bar.



 

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Here is a shot of what the rig looks like with the shock in place and ready to be compressed.



I used a small line level to make sure the two rods were being drawn down evenly while compressing the shock. You can adjust this by tightening the nuts on the bottoms of the threaded rods as needed.

 

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You need to compress the shock about two to two and a half inches. Use a ratchet to tighten the bolt, this will draw the threaded rods down through the rig.



Here is a shot with the shock compressed. Note the bolt tightened into the T bar.

 

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Use a flat head screw driver to remove the rubber bushing so it does not get damaged. Or so it can be replaced with a new one like I did.



 

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At this point it should be fairly easy to pry the head of the shock out because it is onlyheld in by O rings. I used a pry bar.



The welded on nuts make a perfect base for prying.

 

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Now decompress the shock and remove from the rig.



At this point the shock will come apart and look like this, only tours will be oily.

 

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You will want to carefully inspect and clean the area of the canister where the seal goes. if it is dirty or damaged the seal will be damaged and leak. I did not use this canister in re-assembly because as you can see the seal area is pretty far gone.

 

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Ok so you are probably wondering where this thing goes.



Well it goes in this grove right here. It is to keep the seal parts from being pushed to far into the canister. You will want to put this ring back into that grove before re-assembly with the shaft. Once the shat is in this ring is all but impossible to get into place

 

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Replace the old worn out stock springs with your new Progressive ones and re-assemble. I didn't getting any shots of the re-assembly because my camera batteries died. It's pretty much just the reverse of the dis-assembly.
 

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Very good write up with great pictures.
Thank you for future use
 

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I don't think it could be any simpler to understand.

Excellent tutorial Broke :clapper:
 

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Great write-up BW...
 

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Excellent write up and pics Broke Winger.

Your set up is much fancier than mine. I used the large 2" flange modified like yours at the top and for the bottom used a smaller flange with a reducer and end cap.

I only recently changed my springs and haven't had much of a chance to try them out. IIRC I'm running about 30# of air and it is a little firm one up but great two up.
 

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excellent writeup BW and excellent shock jig ,i used a prev posted setup which worked ok but that is definitely an easier and more slick setup
i too am waiting for spring to try out my refurb shocks
 

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Now see, if you had sent them to me to do like we talked about you wouldn't have learned a thing. ;) And you wouldn't have had this nice tutorial to post.:)
 
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