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Suggestions Needed



I just bught a 87 interstate to see if wife and I wanted to get back into riding. Well the was a no brainer. We have 53,000 onmy 1200 interstatebike we just bought and the final drive gear to hub is shoot. Was all dust when I opened her up. I am reading I can replace with a 1500 final or stay with a 1200. I have planson getting it through the last month or two of riding in Seattle Washington before the rain comes and thentrade in or sellitfor a newer 1500 or 1800 bikethis winter.

My question is if I replace with used final what else shoull I replace, (bearings seals,etc.) If I could find a low mile drive from someone converting to a trike would bethe best way to go for sure. What I see on ebay is so hard totell the real condition on the gears and I just do not want something that is going to have a singing sound causing a problem when I go to sell or trade in.

What do you have for help in the direction I should go to keep price down but not loose out on trade in or resale this winter or first of next year.



Thanks for your help

Moxie
 

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I purchased a flange and a final drive off of e-bay,however I asked for up close pics of the splines and after analizing them I made a purchase.$15.00 for the flange$85.00 for the final.if you chose this route be careful to by parts that came off of 86-87 year model as they are different than 84-85.Also coat the splines with moly 60 paste before assy.
 

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Wheel bearings and seals are inexpensive and easy to remove and install pulling the wheel off is involved so I would replace eveything while the wheel was off.Also check your brake pads as you wuold be right there anyway.
 

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Going with a 1200 final drive is going to be less work. My guess, price would be about the same as I see 1500 final drives go for decent prices. If I was keeping the bike I would go with the 1500 final drive. Close up pictures of the final drive splines can help you see what you are dealing with when buying things remotely and the seller should be willing to supply those.
 

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You can install the 1500 rear end but you will need the final drive, the splines, the wheel, the spacers, the rotor, and the caliper mounting bracket.

The only mods are drilling the four bolt holes in the shaft tub larger since the 1500 final drive mou8nting studs are thicker than the 1200's, and you need to grind down the caliper mounting bracket to fit into the swing arm mount.
 

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I had an '85 rear wheel fail (the infamous right side bearing problem) and looked into the 1500 conversion. Parts were readily available, but super expensive. I called a local shop that specializes in Goldwing trikes, and they wanted $600 for a 1500 rear end and wheel. I lucked out, and a member of this forum gave me another rear wheel and driven flange. All my splines were perfect, which surprised me because from the looks of my bike it did not receive much in the way of maintenance, and has 93,000 miles on it.

If you are planning to sell it, I would go the cheapest route possible, as long as it is safe.
 

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So who can tell me how to tell the differance in final drives. I am going to trade or sell it this winter and only have awhile left here in Seattle to ride. I have my out one and I have a wrecking yard here to go through but do not know how to tell what I need when I am picking through dozons of them. Just measure everything out and go with it or is there very distict factors to look for.



I am working on a 1987 1200 interstate

Wynn
 

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If you intend to sell the bike then stick with stock parts so you don't have to make any modifications. There are numbers on the housing of the final drives for the 1000's but I don't think they are part numbers (probably have something to do with the gearset inside). Searching through a wrecking yard is OK if they noted what year bike the parts came out of.
 

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Ihave found two gl1100 final drives. One has a 3 bolt pattern and one has a4 bolt pattern. I have the 4 bolt pattern on my gl1200 and have measured the mounting bolts diameter, This is all the same, I have measured the depth of the input shaft housing and it is the same depth. Tooth count is the same, the only thing I found different was the length of the drive on the 1100it is about 1 inch or the same length as the first set of gears on the 1200 shaft. Someone please tell me they are the same. I can get a real deal on this and have it back together tomorrow.





Help please

Wynn
 

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I'm pretty sure the 1100 drive will not work on the 1200. Other than basic design perimeters, the 1200 is basically a whole different bike. The easy way to tell the difference between '84-'85 wheels and '86-'87 wheels is the area where the right side bearing goes is much larger in diameter, and since the driven flange fits over this, the part that fits over it is also much larger in diameter. I just replaced my '85 wheel and driven flange with an '86 or '87 wheel and driven flange. Where the pins on the flange go into the rubber dampers is the same on all of them, it is the center diameter that is different. You can install an '84-'85 wheel on your '87, if you also have an '84-'85 driven flange. But before doing that, make sure the area where the right bearing goes is not all chewed up. That's what happened to mine, because the bearing spun in the wheel.
 

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The 1100 gear ratio is slower than a 1200. I wouldn't waste time and money trying to swap the two. Won't work.
Bobby
 

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I have gone through every parts listing I can find including dealer computer and have determented that the part I am looking at is miss labeled.(junk yard junkies) Correct me if I am wrong but all 1100's are 3 bolt, all 1200 and 1500's are 4 bolt final drives.Of coarse the 1500 is slightly different bole size and would need mod's done.
 

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just find the parts from a 86-87,taken care of the parts lastforever. this is the easy way and you dont end up with parts from a complete different model. regards walkabout :)
 

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82&83 1100s have 4 bolts
 

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Up and runnig and much quiter on the shift or it is just because I fixed something and now it feels like a new bike. Bought the final drove that was labeled as a GL1100. Installed it with no modifications and it runs great. Quieter, smoother and no gear change. Was sure it was marked wrong with all your guys help and alot of parts searching.
Here are my best buddies when it come to riding




Moxie
 
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