[scotterichmond]

imported post

Is it really necessary to remove the engine to change out the neutral switch/ REALLY?



If there is a short cut I'd like to hear it. raying:

 

[Anim8or Earl]

imported post

AFAIK the neutral switch is behind the engines front cover, the one below the timing belts covers. Radiator has to come out, not the engine.

 

[scotterichmond]

imported post

sorry I double clicked

 

[scotterichmond]

imported post

I am pretty sure it is between the frame and the side of the engine.

 

[SuperSkypilot]

imported post

on the GL1000 and GL1100 it's on the right side of the engine behind the front lower engine mount. You don't need to remove the drive shaft but you do need to remove the engine mounting bolts so you can move the engine around to get at the switch

steve

 

[JerryH]

imported post

The Goldwing is a nice bike, but not perfect, Honda should have solved this design problem before putting the bike into production. I think I would live without the neutral light before I went to that kind of trouble.

My sister had a late '80s Honda Accord, and the water pump went out. Under "replace water pump" in the manual, step 1 was "remove engine". And this was a FWD car, you couldn't just lift the engine out the top like a RWD car. The engine, transaxle, and front subframe had to be dropped out the bottom, which required a hydraulic lift and a special holding fixture. I chose to cut a large hole in the inner fender with an angle grinder instead, and suggested that she get rid of that junk ASAP. Honda is not known for building things that are easy to work on, nor are they known for continuing to provide parts for what they build. They build quality stuff, but when it breaks, watch out!!

 

[wingnzj]

imported post

I changed mine by just loosening the engine mount bolts and flexing the frame. There are instructions in the Honda repair manual.

I like having my light working it was worth all the energy it took. About 2 hours worth of time and fresh oil well worth it.

 

[brianinmaine]

imported post

I have flexed the frame also to get it out. I used wooden door frame wedges to hold it out while I got the switch out.

Also you can rebuild the switch. The top has 2 holes - I put a nail in each hole and a screwdriver to unthread the switch. Buff the contacts and reinstall. Make sure the hole in the side is pointed down when you are done. Photos and further instructions are on the forum here somewhere...

http://www.wingovations.com/#/repairing-the-neutral-switch/4541312843
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14520
http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=34223

Good luck! Let us know how it goes!

 

[flw]

imported post

I have a 1500 but also need to replace the neutral sensor. From the diagram it is not clear if I need to open up the bottom of the engine to remove it.

At mechanic told me it must be removed from the inside rather than the outside of the engine casing. If true it requires alot more work than I had thought.

Does it have to be removed from the inside of the engine case? ('98 1500)

 

[scotterichmond]

imported post

Oh I like this , you guys, I am the kind who like s to repair/ rebuild something rather than replace. Yeee hawwww !

 

[GregForesi]

imported post

Somewhere is a thread about how carbon from the oil can build up on the contacts in the neutral switch and cause it to stop functioning. There was a description on how to "burn off" the build up without removing the switch. It involved switching a couple of wires around for a minute. A Google search should turn it up.