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Okay, it looks like I need to replace the dogbone fuse and connector to the 5 wires leading away from the fuse assembly. Honda no longer makes this part, and on the other thread, some folks were talking about replacing the dog bone fuse anyway. Can you great and kind people help me out here with a little advise? thanks.

Marty
 

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longhaireddwb wrote:
Tricky has the right answer. I've done this on my 84 aspy and it's the best way to fix it! Much better this way! Another one of Honda's mistakes when building the 1200.
I am not seeing "How To" instructions though, just to do it. I don't know what to do with all the wires, there are 5 of them.
 

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OK, buy a fuse holder you like, 30 AMP..either cylinder/can type or plug type, attach eyelets to each end of the fuse socket wires that match the screws where the dog bone is attached, remove the dog bone and screw it on that's it. Well, fold it up so it fits in somehow.

This is for a 1100..and just the dog bone..5 wires???????
 

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I went to the old bike barn and put a completely new solenoid on mine It looked pretty much the same as yours. I just removed the blades from the old solenoid one at a time, cleaned it up and replaced it in the corresponding slot on the new one. you'll need a small flat screwdriver, pick, or like tool to remove the blade from the old one by releasing the latch mechanism in the plug itself. Sounds a lot tougher than it really is. That way you are rid of all the burnt material on the old solenoid. If any of the wires are fried on the ends you will need to cut and replace the bad wire and connector. You will also need a longer battery cable than the one that comes with the new solinoid but if your old one is good you can just reuse it. Good luck, Joe
 

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4evermetric wrote:
longhaireddwb wrote:
Tricky has the right answer. I've done this on my 84 aspy and it's the best way to fix it! Much better this way! Another one of Honda's mistakes when building the 1200.
I am not seeing "How To" instructions though, just to do it. I don't know what to do with all the wires, there are 5 of them.
There are 4 wires. if you include the heavy red wire from the battery there are 5.

If that block is burnt, completely remove it

The red and red/White connect together and go to one end of a 30 amp auto fuse.

The Green/Red & Yellow/red connect to the starter solenoid doesnt matter which wire goes to which spade.

If the wires are burnt you can cut them further up where they are clean, add some extra wire of the same gauge and add some heat shrink tubing. just identify which wire is which when you tape them up.

Before



After


I added a 1/4 inch to one end of the 30 amp fuse holder and connected it to where the battery cable supplies power to the solenoid

When finished it will look similar to this:
 

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what i did on mine was to get two small pieces of wire about 3inch long put a small ring tab and spade on each wire and attached a spade fuse, never had a problem since
 

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Tricky: If I didn't know better I'd say you took a picture of my bike for that post. Its exactly what mine looks like. I guess when I did mine years ago we were on the same wave length.:cheeky1: I got this info from a guy in Ohio about five years ago. A GWRRA member that worked on old wings from way back. Great minds think alike!

4evermetric, Just follow what Tricky said and you will not have any more problems with that again.
 

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That is the "Twisty" fix, and he had some good schematics which are in the archives.
 

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Assuming I figured out how to do this, here is what I am dealing with.

The wire on the left is the offending wire, where the wire has corroded at it's distal end, not making a connection into the plug. Then there is a wire it it's right, (which is hot, and there are THREE more wires behind the two wires you see.

I am sorry Tricky, my brain is not "wired" to follow your great schematic. I loose it after the wire goes out of the main fuse, and while I am sure it is clear to many people, I need a real picture, or a written description. I am willing to stay with this thread and take additional pictures and post them here, for posterity sake. Please help.

After viewing the picture, I will go take some close-ups that should work better.
 

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Tthe 2 wires you can see are the red and red/white wires that provide power from the dogbone fuse.
Pull that plug out. You will probably have to cut those wires back until you reach (good clean unburnt wire) and maybe have to solder extra lengths on. You will also probably need to remove that rubber covering.
Remove all that burnt plastic you will then see the other two wires at the back, they actually correspond with the 2 wires you can see in my picture and they control the starter solenoid.
Once you have removed all the burnt plastic you will see better.

You will see the solenoid sitting in a rubber cup and the 2 wires that control the solenoid.

I am curious about that third wire you can see.
I only have schematics up to 85.


What your going to do is to join those two wires you see at the front and connect them to a 30 amp auto fuse therby completely doing away with the dogbone fuse and holder.
 

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tricky wrote:
Tthe 2 wires you can see are the red and red/white wires that provide power from the dogbone fuse.
Pull that plug out. You will probably have to cut those wires back until you reach (good clean unburnt wire) and maybe have to solder extra lengths on. You will also probably need to remove that rubber covering.
Remove all that burnt plastic you will then see the other two wires at the back, they actually correspond with the 2 wires you can see in my picture and they control the starter solenoid.
Once you have removed all the burnt plastic you will see better.

You will see the solenoid sitting in a rubber cup and the 2 wires that control the solenoid.

I am curious about that third wire you can see.
I only have schematics up to 85.


What your going to do is to join those two wires you see at the front and connect them to a 30 amp auto fuse therby completely doing away with the dogbone fuse and holder.
I'll be back shortly with a picture...
 

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Here is a pretty good picture. The red wire is front left, the red/white front right, then three smallers wires behind them all in the plug. First off, what do all these wires do?
 

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What year bike is this? It is different wiring to the 85 but the basics will be the same.

Disconnect the dogbone fuse and put a volt meter on the red wire on the left side tell me if it has voltage.

Check the 2 screws on the dogbone tell me which one has voltage.
 

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tricky wrote:
What year bike is this? It is different wiring to the 85 but the basics will be the same.

Disconnect the dogbone fuse and put a volt meter on the red wire on the left side tell me if it has voltage.

Check the 2 screws on the dogbone tell me which one has voltage.
It is an 87.

With the dogbone fuse connected, both sides of the fuse are hot, (obviously) and so are both the red (left) wire, and the red/white (right) wire. With both the dogbone fuse disconnected, only the left side of the dogbone fuse is hot, and neither the red nor the red/white wires hot.
 

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The part numbers for the start relays are all the same so the plug is wired the same even if the colors are different.
 

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exavid wrote:
The part numbers for the start relays are all the same so the plug is wired the same even if the colors are different.
Believe it or not exivid, that is too techinical!!! What is a start relay? You gotta really dumb it down for me.:)

Also, it would help me conceptually if I knew what each of these 5 wires do.
 

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Now I get it..just clean up the wires, replace, cut back whatever and put back the way they were...Then take the dog bone out and wire (attach an eyelet connector to the ends) the ends of whatever fuse holder you buy...30 amp of course, to the two screws that held the dog bone in put a fuse in the holder and you are done.
 
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