Restoring 1987 GL1200 to roadworthy condition

What you are after won't work with that relay. Don't know what you mean by "fires hot", the wires to the spark plugs fire hot. The original fuel pump relay used the yellow wire to the right coil to energize the relay, it is a pulsed ground.

Thank you Dave! Is there another way guys usually wire a pulse fuel pump to make it timed to the engine speed so the bike can stay running? Or am I going to have to restore the original wiring?

@Auficer

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Auficer said:

Thank you Dave! Is there another way guys usually wire a pulse fuel pump to make it timed to the engine speed so the bike can stay running? Or am I going to have to restore the original wiring?

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There is no such thing. The pump gets constant power when the engine is running, the pulse is determined by how much fuel is being used.

Welcome to the forum.
The schematic you are looking at is for an '84. You should be looking at one for the .87 Aspy. There are differences.
Also, that looks like an aftermarket pump. May be wired differently than an OEM.
Also...and this is a big one...the '87 fuel system is one year only. NONE of the parts are interchangeable with any other year. Tank, petcock, hoses, filter, pump and carbs, the whole system, different.

I see what you mean now about the relay I'm using, definitely not going to work with this application, guess I'm going to have to restore the original fuel relay to working order.... at idle if I leave the fuel pump switched on I have gas pouring from the overflow vents under the carbs, I was holing there was a way to speed up and slow down the pump dependant on rpm, however not so sure how that's possible if I can't use the coil.

Bike...and Dennis said:

Welcome to the forum.
The schematic you are looking at is for an '84. You should be looking at one for the .87 Aspy. There are differences.
Also, that looks like an aftermarket pump. May be wired differently than an OEM.
Also...and this is a big one...the '87 fuel system is one year only. NONE of the parts are interchangeable with any other year. Tank, petcock, hoses, filter, pump and carbs, the whole system, different.

Click to expand...

...oh God no... sigh

Auficer said:

I see what you mean now about the relay I'm using, definitely not going to work with this application, guess I'm going to have to restore the original fuel relay to working order.... at idle if I leave the fuel pump switched on I have gas pouring from the overflow vents under the carbs, I was holing there was a way to speed up and slow down the pump dependant on rpm, however not so sure how that's possible if I can't use the coil.


...oh God no... sigh

Click to expand...

Did not know there would be major differences, thanks for letting me know... further down I go!

Check your fuel pressure. Either it is too high or you have carb problems, or both!
Most aftermarket fuel pumps have too much pressure.

Auficer said:

I see what you mean now about the relay I'm using, definitely not going to work with this application, guess I'm going to have to restore the original fuel relay to working order.... at idle if I leave the fuel pump switched on I have gas pouring from the overflow vents under the carbs, I was holing there was a way to speed up and slow down the pump dependant on rpm, however not so sure how that's possible if I can't use the coil.

Click to expand...

No it's not possible. As mentioned above, you have a carb or fuel pressure problem.

i would get a good OEM wiring harness and relays. you will need that harness again and again. was it cut to accomodate the nekkid aboration? is it burned? tell us what happened to the original harness and you will save a ton of $$$$ , blood, stress, time, etc:
looks like you have a nice,clean slate to start your restoration, most of us only wish ours had started with what u have.
there is a reason it was $600. P.O. screwed it up, gave up, put it up for sale. you can fix it, once you get it all back assembled, and can ride it, you will forget all the issuse, and just enjoy the ride!
it is obvious the charging system has fried. may as well repair the bad repair before sinking too much into it. if you are not certain it will run, shift, charge, be safe, i wouldnt spend another dime until i WAS sure.!

Thank you so much for the help fellas, so glad there are awesome forums like this to help us new guys out! I'm gonna run down to the auto parts store and see if I can find a 1psi fuel pressure regulator.... maybe 1psi feeding 4 carbs won't cause an overflow? Fingers crossed

Why not just look for the OEM relay and pump and be done with the issues?

Is it just a stuck float?

Maybe, if the pump isn't too high pressure then it's a float or float valve problem.

Am i correct in thinking if the pumps pressure was the issue it would leak out of both sides? It never leaks out of the left only the right.

Take the carbs off and see if you have a float -- that doesn't. Or possibly one that is stuck due to sludge buildup.
Anyway you look at it, I believe you're going to have to find an OEM pump and relay.

yep, you can experiment (the expensive way out) all you want, but at the end of the bank account, you will wish you had quit trying to outsmart honda and fixed it right for cheaper. a regulator will restrict flow, and will also make pressure look like a sine wave. fluctuating all over the place. your local auto parts will sell you more junk, over and over. listen to all above. just go with OEM.............if that aint right, you just keep guessing what to spend money on next.

BTW, when you finally give up like the PO did, can i have your seat?

Auficer said:

Am i correct in thinking if the pumps pressure was the issue it would leak out of both sides? It never leaks out of the left only the right.

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Not necessarily but I think it's more likely a problem in the carbs, the pump looks pretty much like OE.