[claydbal_1590]

i would get a good OEM wiring harness and relays. you will need that harness again and again. was it cut to accomodate the nekkid aboration? is it burned? tell us what happened to the original harness and you will save a ton of $$$$ , blood, stress, time, etc:
looks like you have a nice,clean slate to start your restoration, most of us only wish ours had started with what u have.
there is a reason it was $600. P.O. screwed it up, gave up, put it up for sale. you can fix it, once you get it all back assembled, and can ride it, you will forget all the issuse, and just enjoy the ride!
it is obvious the charging system has fried. may as well repair the bad repair before sinking too much into it. if you are not certain it will run, shift, charge, be safe, i wouldnt spend another dime until i WAS sure.!

 

[claydbal_1590]

yep, you can experiment (the expensive way out) all you want, but at the end of the bank account, you will wish you had quit trying to outsmart honda and fixed it right for cheaper. a regulator will restrict flow, and will also make pressure look like a sine wave. fluctuating all over the place. your local auto parts will sell you more junk, over and over. listen to all above. just go with OEM.............if that aint right, you just keep guessing what to spend money on next.

 

[claydbal_1590]

BTW, when you finally give up like the PO did, can i have your seat?

 

[claydbal_1590]

after all the trouble about pump and pressure, and we see the carbs had never been inspected.

 

[claydbal_1590]

Your video says a lot. First a complete tear down is needed with rebuild kits and float valves. The gunk you see in the float bowls is also spread throughout the carb bodies and needs to be completely rebuilt by a competent technician. Having worked in the field I’d not recommend going to your local Honda dealer. They aren’t trained for 35 year old bikes. Most have a 10 year limit so don’t depend on them.

most are trained at MMI and know how to clean up after class and stick chrome on harleys. oh, and tires.....thats it, they are tire installation technicians.

 

[claydbal_1590]

another reason for clutch slippage. the slave piston is sticky/slow to return. slow to return may be a plugged return at the mastr or even an internally restricted hose (common). as far as the sprague, change the oil to a ow20 and a quart of ford ATF. run it easy for a little while and then change oil and filter again to recommended oil/10w40.

you will have to rebuild every hydraulic component before that bike is ready to go for more than a short, low speed run.
ATGATT or die.

 

[claydbal_1590]

yep! but temporary and mixing with ATF will help the clutch, notoice i said change it out and go back to normal oil and rebuild master, slave, replace hose. you must be older n me!