[DaveO430]

What you are after won't work with that relay. Don't know what you mean by "fires hot", the wires to the spark plugs fire hot. The original fuel pump relay used the yellow wire to the right coil to energize the relay, it is a pulsed ground.

 

[DaveO430]

Thank you Dave! Is there another way guys usually wire a pulse fuel pump to make it timed to the engine speed so the bike can stay running? Or am I going to have to restore the original wiring?

There is no such thing. The pump gets constant power when the engine is running, the pulse is determined by how much fuel is being used.

 

[DaveO430]

I see what you mean now about the relay I'm using, definitely not going to work with this application, guess I'm going to have to restore the original fuel relay to working order.... at idle if I leave the fuel pump switched on I have gas pouring from the overflow vents under the carbs, I was holing there was a way to speed up and slow down the pump dependant on rpm, however not so sure how that's possible if I can't use the coil.

No it's not possible. As mentioned above, you have a carb or fuel pressure problem.

 

[DaveO430]

Maybe, if the pump isn't too high pressure then it's a float or float valve problem.

 

[DaveO430]

Am i correct in thinking if the pumps pressure was the issue it would leak out of both sides? It never leaks out of the left only the right.

Not necessarily but I think it's more likely a problem in the carbs, the pump looks pretty much like OE.

 

[DaveO430]

Imagine that.

 

[DaveO430]

Berrymans B12 spray is as good as it gets for aerosol cleaners. Do not get it on rubber parts, especially the slide diaphragms. Be sure to remove all the jets and the mixture screws and make sure all the internal passages are clean. All the original brass parts will usually clean up just fine.

 

[DaveO430]

Hahaha not yet! The master cylinder was bone dry when I got the bike so I'm sure I have some air trapped in the system, gonna do my best to re-bleed it again soon, and clean the master while I'm at it, then I think I'm gonna run some seafoam through the Oil and do a change, my sprag clutch likes to spin every once in a while so it may need to be cleaned up.

If it has air in the line it would have the opposite effect, drag instead of slip. If it only starts to slip after it's warmed up the return hole in the MC is plugged.

 

[DaveO430]

another reason for clutch slippage. the slave piston is sticky/slow to return. slow to return may be a plugged return at the mastr or even an internally restricted hose (common). as far as the sprague, change the oil to a ow20 and a quart of ford ATF. run it easy for a little while and then change oil and filter again to recommended oil/10w40.

you will have to rebuild every hydraulic component before that bike is ready to go for more than a short, low speed run.
ATGATT or die.

Any 0/20 oil is going to have anti-friction additives that are bad for a wet clutch.