[rayworx]

Your video says a lot. First a complete tear down is needed with rebuild kits and float valves. The gunk you see in the float bowls is also spread throughout the carb bodies and needs to be completely rebuilt by a competent technician. Having worked in the field I’d not recommend going to your local Honda dealer. They aren’t trained for 35 year old bikes. Most have a 10 year limit so don’t depend on them.

 

[claydbal_1590]

Your video says a lot. First a complete tear down is needed with rebuild kits and float valves. The gunk you see in the float bowls is also spread throughout the carb bodies and needs to be completely rebuilt by a competent technician. Having worked in the field I’d not recommend going to your local Honda dealer. They aren’t trained for 35 year old bikes. Most have a 10 year limit so don’t depend on them.

most are trained at MMI and know how to clean up after class and stick chrome on harleys. oh, and tires.....thats it, they are tire installation technicians.

 

[mckarlas]

Whoa, McKarlas! You joined in 2008 and already you have 3 posts? .

Correct. I guess in 15 years of Goldwing ownership I've learned only about the fuel pumps
4 posts now

 

[Auficer]

Just wanna say thank you to all you guys for helping me sort this out, with your advice and corrections I took the carb off for the 3rd time, cleaned the hell out of each bowl and float needle, synched the carbs and took her out for her first ride back on the road in 6 years! Damn these things are fast!

 

[Auficer]

Oh yeah, and now that the float needles actually seat cleanly, THERES NO RIVER OF GAS POURING DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BIKE LMAO, and the pump is pulsing only as needed to fill the bowls. Now to figure out why the clutch is slipping.....

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

Two possibilities on the clutch slipping.
One; the oil.
Two; the damper plate.
Either way the clutch has to come out. Damper plate is no longer available for the 1200. 1500 unit might fit.
Are you starting to wish you'd bought an electric bicycle instead?

 

[Auficer]

Two possibilities on the clutch slipping.
One; the oil.
Two; the damper plate.
Either way the clutch has to come out. Damper plate is no longer available for the 1200. 1500 unit might fit.
Are you starting to wish you'd bought an electric bicycle instead?

Hahaha not yet! The master cylinder was bone dry when I got the bike so I'm sure I have some air trapped in the system, gonna do my best to re-bleed it again soon, and clean the master while I'm at it, then I think I'm gonna run some seafoam through the Oil and do a change, my sprag clutch likes to spin every once in a while so it may need to be cleaned up.

 

[DaveO430]

Hahaha not yet! The master cylinder was bone dry when I got the bike so I'm sure I have some air trapped in the system, gonna do my best to re-bleed it again soon, and clean the master while I'm at it, then I think I'm gonna run some seafoam through the Oil and do a change, my sprag clutch likes to spin every once in a while so it may need to be cleaned up.

If it has air in the line it would have the opposite effect, drag instead of slip. If it only starts to slip after it's warmed up the return hole in the MC is plugged.

 

[claydbal_1590]

another reason for clutch slippage. the slave piston is sticky/slow to return. slow to return may be a plugged return at the mastr or even an internally restricted hose (common). as far as the sprague, change the oil to a ow20 and a quart of ford ATF. run it easy for a little while and then change oil and filter again to recommended oil/10w40.

you will have to rebuild every hydraulic component before that bike is ready to go for more than a short, low speed run.
ATGATT or die.

 

[DaveO430]

another reason for clutch slippage. the slave piston is sticky/slow to return. slow to return may be a plugged return at the mastr or even an internally restricted hose (common). as far as the sprague, change the oil to a ow20 and a quart of ford ATF. run it easy for a little while and then change oil and filter again to recommended oil/10w40.

you will have to rebuild every hydraulic component before that bike is ready to go for more than a short, low speed run.
ATGATT or die.

Any 0/20 oil is going to have anti-friction additives that are bad for a wet clutch.

 

[claydbal_1590]

yep! but temporary and mixing with ATF will help the clutch, notoice i said change it out and go back to normal oil and rebuild master, slave, replace hose. you must be older n me!

 

[Auficer]

If it has air in the line it would have the opposite effect, drag instead of slip. If it only starts to slip after it's warmed up the return hole in the MC is plugged.

DUDE! that's what I keep reading so I opened up the master and they said it was like the size of a 22 guage wire small. I couldn't find a hole that small for the life of me. Do you know exactly where it's supposed to be? I just rode it down to the gas station and after she was fully warm the slip was so bad I could barely maintain 45mph

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

It's under the chrome thing, which pops out.

 

[Auficer]

It's under the chrome thing, which pops out.

Darn, may be rusted closed, ill have another look in the daylight and get a bit more aggressive with it, thanks Dennis. Just forward of the main hole that you can see the piston through?

 

[DenverWinger]

As to the oil, go for a 50-50 mix of ATF and Shell Rotella 5w40 Diesel oil available at Walmart for reasonably cheap.

And the Rotella is fully compatible with Wet Clutch, it is a good oil to use as your regular oil change going forward....