Restoring 1987 GL1200 to roadworthy condition

2788 Views 54 Replies 9 Participants Last post by DenverWinger, 3 mo ago

Auficer

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

9

Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle tire Hood

I'm at my wits end. I picked up a 1987 Gl1200 aspy for $600. Been off the road for 6+ years. Fixed the starting issue, Fixed the clutch, old owner had the electric fuel pump wired directly to a toggle switch, which I feel is a big no-no. So I pulled all his crappy wiring off and am attempting to wire the fuel pump to pulse with the ignition coil. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME WHICH WIRE FIRES HOT

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive fuel system Motorcycle

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive fuel system Motorcycle

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior

TO MAKE THE PUMP PULSE WITH THE COIL? please for the love of God, I have all the schematics, tried half the damn wires coming in and out of the ignition module. Still can't get it.

Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Engineering

Font Slope Parallel Rectangle Schematic

Rectangle Slope Parallel Font Pattern

Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Engineering

Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Engineering

Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Engineering

Rectangle Slope Parallel Font Pattern

Font Slope Parallel Rectangle Schematic

Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Engineering

Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Engineering

Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle tire Hood

See less See more

41 - 55 of 55 Posts

rayworx

· #41 · 3 mo ago

Your video says a lot. First a complete tear down is needed with rebuild kits and float valves. The gunk you see in the float bowls is also spread throughout the carb bodies and needs to be completely rebuilt by a competent technician. Having worked in the field I’d not recommend going to your local Honda dealer. They aren’t trained for 35 year old bikes. Most have a 10 year limit so don’t depend on them.

claydbal_1590

· #42 · 3 mo ago

rayworx said:
Your video says a lot. First a complete tear down is needed with rebuild kits and float valves. The gunk you see in the float bowls is also spread throughout the carb bodies and needs to be completely rebuilt by a competent technician. Having worked in the field I’d not recommend going to your local Honda dealer. They aren’t trained for 35 year old bikes. Most have a 10 year limit so don’t depend on them.

most are trained at MMI and know how to clean up after class and stick chrome on harleys. oh, and tires.....thats it, they are tire installation technicians.

mckarlas

· #43 · 3 mo ago

Bike...and Dennis said:
Whoa, McKarlas! You joined in 2008 and already you have 3 posts? .

Correct. I guess in 15 years of Goldwing ownership I've learned only about the fuel pumps

4 posts now

Reactions: 1

Auficer

Discussion Starter · #44 · 3 mo ago

Just wanna say thank you to all you guys for helping me sort this out, with your advice and corrections I took the carb off for the 3rd time, cleaned the hell out of each bowl and float needle, synched the carbs and took her out for her first ride back on the road in 6 years! Damn these things are fast!

Auficer

Discussion Starter · #45 · 3 mo ago

Oh yeah, and now that the float needles actually seat cleanly, THERES NO RIVER OF GAS POURING DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BIKE LMAO, and the pump is pulsing only as needed to fill the bowls. Now to figure out why the clutch is slipping.....

Bike...and Dennis

· #46 · 3 mo ago

Two possibilities on the clutch slipping.
One; the oil.
Two; the damper plate.
Either way the clutch has to come out. Damper plate is no longer available for the 1200. 1500 unit might fit.
Are you starting to wish you'd bought an electric bicycle instead?

Auficer

Discussion Starter · #47 · 3 mo ago

Bike...and Dennis said:
Two possibilities on the clutch slipping.
One; the oil.
Two; the damper plate.
Either way the clutch has to come out. Damper plate is no longer available for the 1200. 1500 unit might fit.
Are you starting to wish you'd bought an electric bicycle instead?

Hahaha not yet! The master cylinder was bone dry when I got the bike so I'm sure I have some air trapped in the system, gonna do my best to re-bleed it again soon, and clean the master while I'm at it, then I think I'm gonna run some seafoam through the Oil and do a change, my sprag clutch likes to spin every once in a while so it may need to be cleaned up.

DaveO430

· #48 · 3 mo ago

Auficer said:
Hahaha not yet! The master cylinder was bone dry when I got the bike so I'm sure I have some air trapped in the system, gonna do my best to re-bleed it again soon, and clean the master while I'm at it, then I think I'm gonna run some seafoam through the Oil and do a change, my sprag clutch likes to spin every once in a while so it may need to be cleaned up.

If it has air in the line it would have the opposite effect, drag instead of slip. If it only starts to slip after it's warmed up the return hole in the MC is plugged.

claydbal_1590

· #49 · 3 mo ago

another reason for clutch slippage. the slave piston is sticky/slow to return. slow to return may be a plugged return at the mastr or even an internally restricted hose (common). as far as the sprague, change the oil to a ow20 and a quart of ford ATF. run it easy for a little while and then change oil and filter again to recommended oil/10w40.

you will have to rebuild every hydraulic component before that bike is ready to go for more than a short, low speed run.
ATGATT or die.

DaveO430

· #50 · 3 mo ago

claydbal_1590 said:
another reason for clutch slippage. the slave piston is sticky/slow to return. slow to return may be a plugged return at the mastr or even an internally restricted hose (common). as far as the sprague, change the oil to a ow20 and a quart of ford ATF. run it easy for a little while and then change oil and filter again to recommended oil/10w40.

you will have to rebuild every hydraulic component before that bike is ready to go for more than a short, low speed run.
ATGATT or die.

Any 0/20 oil is going to have anti-friction additives that are bad for a wet clutch.

Reactions: 1

claydbal_1590

· #51 · 3 mo ago

yep! but temporary and mixing with ATF will help the clutch, notoice i said change it out and go back to normal oil and rebuild master, slave, replace hose. you must be older n me!

Auficer

Discussion Starter · #52 · 3 mo ago

DaveO430 said:
If it has air in the line it would have the opposite effect, drag instead of slip. If it only starts to slip after it's warmed up the return hole in the MC is plugged.

DUDE! that's what I keep reading so I opened up the master and they said it was like the size of a 22 guage wire small. I couldn't find a hole that small for the life of me. Do you know exactly where it's supposed to be? I just rode it down to the gas station and after she was fully warm the slip was so bad I could barely maintain 45mph

Bike...and Dennis

· #53 · 3 mo ago

It's under the chrome thing, which pops out.

Auficer

Discussion Starter · #54 · 3 mo ago

Bike...and Dennis said:
It's under the chrome thing, which pops out.

Darn, may be rusted closed, ill have another look in the daylight and get a bit more aggressive with it, thanks Dennis. Just forward of the main hole that you can see the piston through?

DenverWinger

· #55 · 3 mo ago

As to the oil, go for a 50-50 mix of ATF and Shell Rotella 5w40 Diesel oil available at Walmart for reasonably cheap.

And the Rotella is fully compatible with Wet Clutch, it is a good oil to use as your regular oil change going forward....

41 - 55 of 55 Posts