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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Usual revival means trying to start the engine with squirted oil in cylinders and with running engine burns off the oil and smokey conditions for about 1 hour after initial start up, then do the rest of the bringing back to road worthiness.

My question concerns getting the oil squirted into the cylinders out. Is there any way of removing the oil before firing the bike up? I do run the starter with plugs out, kill switch off to dump the oil out through the plug hole and forcing it out the exhaust. This removes quite a bit, but the remaining causes such a smokey condition for about an hour that the neighbours called the fire department.

Can I mix gasoline through the plug holes, will this cause a worse condition with ignited vapors? Any ideas? Thanks
 

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try just cranking it with the plugs out and the run switch on kill. That will prime the oil pump, draw fuel into the carbs without putting pressure on bearings due to compression with no oil. No smoke either. I did that with mine and when the plugs were put back in, it started up almost immediately without clacking because the heads are dry.
 

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The Irish Crew
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Like Wilmo says. I would add that putting a rag over the plug holes will stop the oil flinging out all over the Wing.
 

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Actually, I meant not putting in any oil at all in the cylinders. Just crank it for a few seconds. Of course, the rag won't hurt anything...
 

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I've never heard of anyone putting oil in the cylinders on a bike that has only sat over the winter. I would guess that the oil in the cylinders burns off in a few seconds and what you are seeing is the oil in the exhaust system that you forced into it by spinning the starter. That oil takes a long time to burn off.
 

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I revive several bikes every year and have never put oil in the cylinders. A bit of cranking to get the oil pressure up is all thats required IMHO. I agree if it's smoking for more than a minute or two you've got oil in the exhaust as it would disappear from the combustion chambers very quickly.

the check tire pressures, brake operation, and go riding!!

Note: On 2 strokes I do fog the engine because the cylinder and/or lower case is open to atmosphere so there is much more risk of corrosion.
 

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I revive 4 different Motorcycles from the Winter, never placed oil like you are saying. Before I put them to bed before Winter, I keep the gas at a lower level and either remove the battery/ or keep it on a battery tender. When Spring breaks, I fill up the tank with fresh gas and that is about it. Sometime after that I change the oil.
 

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I would recommend using a fogging spray type oil and not using that much. Then just crank and go when the season hits.
 

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My bike sat for 8 years. After new fuel, and a carb re build, pulled the plugs, cranked her over a few times, put the plugs in, and she started right up. I agree, with the others, no oil needed. If you were going to put oil in, you would have done that at the end of last season and cranked it over without the plugs. That would have coated the cylinders for the long winter nap.
 

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Piaggio MP3, was 02 GL1800
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I like to fill the gas tank to the brim for the winter sleep.

Reviving it for me, is the time required for the carbs to fill with gas and the engine to start. I let it stay at low RPMs for a few seconds and try to keep it below 2,000 until it warms up a bit.

Nothing magical about my formula, just seems to have survived my attempts at winter housekeeping. I do though like to start the engine up every 3 or 4 weeks and ride it for a bit if possible, if not, like to let it run long enough for the fans to come on and cycle several times.

Then it goes back on the Battery Tender again.
 

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Trike Master
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IMO
1. Put Stabil or Sea Foam in a nearly empty tank. Fill up and ride for at least 10 minutes to get the mix completely through the system.
2. Park it, plug in the battery maintainer.
3. Leave it alone til spring!
In the spring, unplug the maintainer, start it, go for a ride.
I do also clean the bike before parking for the winter.
Storing w/a partially full tank promotes condensation, if stored where temps can vary, such as opening your garage door!
I change the oil when mileage dictates. I do not waste oil by changing prior to storage and again in the spring.
If storing where rodents are present, spread a few moth balls under the bike.
If storing where the temps can be below freezing it might be wise to remove battery and store it in a warmer place, still plugged into a maintainer of course!
DONOT periodically start as this too promotes condensation.
Having mentioned condensation a couple times, anyone ever heard of any actual "problems" from condensation?
 

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Having mentioned condensation a couple times, anyone ever heard of any actual "problems" from condensation?
Allowing a bike to sit thru a winter with a partially full gas tank is asking for trouble in our parts. Have seen more than a few rusted gas tanks from guys draining them for the winter. A friend had to go thru the coating process on the tank on his Interceptor last summer. He's learned his lesson.
 

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Gregarious Greeter
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Tank full. Go out and start it once a month, and let run until cooling fans kick on. Done!!!:waving:
 

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Premium Member
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IMO
1. Put Stabil or Sea Foam in a nearly empty tank. Fill up and ride for at least 10 minutes to get the mix completely through the system.
2. Park it, plug in the battery maintainer.
3. Leave it alone til spring!
In the spring, unplug the maintainer, start it, go for a ride.
I do also clean the bike before parking for the winter.
Storing w/a partially full tank promotes condensation, if stored where temps can vary, such as opening your garage door!
I change the oil when mileage dictates. I do not waste oil by changing prior to storage and again in the spring.
If storing where rodents are present, spread a few moth balls under the bike.
If storing where the temps can be below freezing it might be wise to remove battery and store it in a warmer place, still plugged into a maintainer of course!
DONOT periodically start as this too promotes condensation.
Having mentioned condensation a couple times, anyone ever heard of any actual "problems" from condensation?
That's just about the way I have stored all my different bikes over the years and have never had a problem, it make no sense what so ever to go start them once a week or every 2 weeks or what ever. I just started my "Betty" up for the 1st time since November, turned the fuel on let her sit a good 15 minutes then cranked her a few times with the engine stop switch on to get some oil moving then I turned her on and she took about 10 short 3 second hits of the starter button and she was purring like a kitten, we even went for a short 3 mile ride (Insurance is suspended) and she was running like new. WOOOOHOOOO I can't wait for riding weather :claps:
 

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IMO
1. Put Stabil or Sea Foam in a nearly empty tank. Fill up and ride for at least 10 minutes to get the mix completely through the system.
2. Park it, plug in the battery maintainer.
3. Leave it alone til spring!
In the spring, unplug the maintainer, start it, go for a ride.
I do also clean the bike before parking for the winter.
Storing w/a partially full tank promotes condensation, if stored where temps can vary, such as opening your garage door!
I change the oil when mileage dictates. I do not waste oil by changing prior to storage and again in the spring.
If storing where rodents are present, spread a few moth balls under the bike.
If storing where the temps can be below freezing it might be wise to remove battery and store it in a warmer place, still plugged into a maintainer of course!
DONOT periodically start as this too promotes condensation.
Having mentioned condensation a couple times, anyone ever heard of any actual "problems" from condensation?
+1 Same here
 

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+1 Same here
Just noticed your location of Sanborn NY, I'm located about 8 miles North of you in South Wilson off Route 425, small world huh! LOL Ride safe and maybe i'll see you out and about. Dana:raspberry:
 
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