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OK, I MAY WIND UP IN A STRAIGHT JACKET SOON....
IM REBUILDING MY 76 WING. I HAD T O USE 1/2 OF ANOTHER MOTOR AND IT CAME IN PIECES ...I ALSO USED THE NEW USED MILL'S CRANK, RODS AND BEARINGS IF YOU DONT KNOW WHAT ROD CAME FROM WHAT HOLE, ARE YOU DOOMED? THERE IS ONE SIDE THAT DOESNT HAVE OIL HOLES AND RELY ON SPLASH, BUT THEY HAVE COLORED BEARINGS FOR DIFFERENT "FITS"
WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU TO DO IN ORDER TO GET GET THE CORRECT BEARINGS AND IM TOLD I DONT HAVE A CHANCE OF GETTING NEW ROD BOLTS ......ANYONE...KNOW ANYTHING I SHOULD. AND WHAT SHOULD I DO ABOUT THE SLEAZEBAG SIMPLETON WHO CHARGED ME FOR A .030 REBORE , NEW PISTONS AND RINGS ETC , LAST TIME I REBUILT IT AND IT ATE THE BOTTOM ENDD AFTER 4 K........IM SIZE 40.....STRAIGHT JACKET
 

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There is a chart to match the number on the rod to the letter on the crank to get the right bearings, the main bearings are coded also. The left side rods are the ones with the oil holes. On the rod bolts, with a micrometer measure the diameter of the bolt at the end of the threads and again below where the nut is when tightened, If the diameter is the same the bolts are not stretched and are OK to re-use.
If it was bored .030 where did you (or the sleazebag simpleton) get pistons and rings? The would have only been available in .25 or .5 mm oversize if at all.
 

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You can use different rods and get away with it, but you definitely should't swap used shell bearings around.

I don't think anyone can advise you on how to deal with the guy who did the rebore, that is something you have to deal with on your own. ;)
 

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WELL , FIRST , THANKS FOR YOUR TIME ! THE THING IS THAT HE CHARGED ME FOR ALL THAT STUFF - BORING, RODS AND PISTONS ETC AND WHEN I WENT IN THIS TIME AND MEASURED EVERYTHING, ,...EVERYTHING HAD NOT BEEN TOUCHED. JUST A SORE REAR ON MY PART., BEST REGARDS
 

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THANKS AGAIN. I HAVE BEEN DIGGING AND DIGGIN AND I CANT FIND THE NUBERS ANYWHERE THAT ARE ON THE ROD,ON THE SIDE OF THE ROD S10 IS STAMPED(RAISED) AND ON THE BOTTOM OF TE ROD IT HAS A S17 STAMPED. THESE ARE THE ONLY MARKS I CAN FIND. AM I MISSING SOMETHING. BEST REGARDS , BILL
 

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The numbers are on the ground flat part where the bolt goes through.
 

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When you bore a cylinder, you should use an alignment tool. they bolt to the deck & guide the bore tool exactly strait in. some guys dont use them. If your bore is out, you will have a rod that leans on one end of the crank bearing causing early failure.

This might be evident if you use plasti guage on your bearings before you do your final assembly. The guage gets crushed in between the bearing & crank. than you remove it & measure with a micrometer to ensure it has proper clearance.

I saw a few older wings on used victoria a few weeks ago, That might be a good option for a good running engine.

Good luck Bill!
 
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