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Wichita Scorpion wrote:
...
Switch settings: 1-on, 2-off, (low); 3-off, 4-on, 5-off, 6-on, (9650); 7-on, 8-off, 9-off, (4 cyl low) 10-on, (Sq Wave); 11-off, (Manual); 12-off, (open).....
Sounds great... Your gain is much higher than I would expect to work with the short pull on thebar linkage, but that might be due to the larger resistance with the side car.. Have you tried it at slower speeds.. say 50 mph? and I am curious why you used the "manual" setting? Are you not using the neutral switch? It was my understanding from the instructions and talking to Rostra, that the setting had to be "automatic" for the neutral switch lt green wire (for clutch and neutral on the GL1100) to be active... Maybe that is my bad information... Does yours disengage the cruise when you pull in the clutch?

Nice custom bracket... nice metal work.... and I thought about putting the whole servo control unit in a box.. and actually made the box, but had trouble fitting it and by the time I had modified it to fit, I was so frustrated with how it looked, I threw it away and went without it...
 

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Hi sandiegobrass. We have used the cruise control at all speeds. Still need to check it out in different conditions, hills, etc. It has not been harsh or jerky for us.As you know it doesn'tengageuntilaround 35 mph. My son, the first day testing, had the cruise set at 40 mph and decreased it one mile per hour at a time all the way down to about 28 mph before it disengaged. I will be checking this later also. Yesterday after stopping at a stop sign, I accelerated to about 35 mph and hit the resume and the cruise control took us back to 55 mph smoothly. I was on a Parkway in Wichita Falls with the cruise set at 45 mph, speed limit is 45 mph, with stop lights about 1/4 mile or so apart. Theyhave thelights set so that you get green if you do 45 mph from your first red. As you know this doesn't always work so naturallyfor a fewof the lights, I had to slow ahead of time to pick up the green. WhenI hit the resume we accelerated back to 45 mph. The cruise control seems to be working well at all speeds for us. Not much difference operating than in my pickup or the caddie. Very well may be the added sidecar weight. Westarted withthe 'extra low' gain setting on the first day and my son and I decided that the 'low' gain setting was us giving better operation.
Now, My Manual Settingwith switch 1 & 2.Allof what I am going to write on this subject you already know, it is for the benefit of others that might be thinking of installing a cruise control and might read this. All of my wiring connections are exactly the same as yours are, 'YOU DID GOOD WORK',exceptpossibly for the grounding point for Ground (Black) wireand theTACH (Dark Blue) wire. Running the Loom over the shock allowed the Ground (Black) wire to be just long enough to connect it to the (over the fuel tank) right cross brace to frame bolt. I also ran the TACH wire back (from the Bulkhead connector) down the loom to ground at the same point, the right cross brace bolt. I could have used the accessorynegativeterminal on themain fuse boxfor groundfor the TACH wire but decidedit would be neater to runback downthe loom andconnect itto the frame. Also a frame ground is not passing through any connectors except the negative battery connection. We have too many wires in the bike front end now: For sidecar-fader controlled radio speakers, brake/tail lights, driving light, air horn, PTT switch, cigarette lighter/light, and headset connector. PO hooked up dash switch for emergency blinkers also.
My thinking on the Manual/Automatic Transmission setting:
Studied, wrote down,your switch settings. Studied, wrote down,tricky's switch settings. Studied the installation manual. I compared allthree wiring connection write-ups. Tricky didn't use the Light Green Neutral Safety (NSS), not sure why not, but he did hook up the TACH wire to prevent overspeed. You grounded the TACH wire and used the NSS wire.I liked your 5 thoughts on why not to hook up the TACH wire. Inthe Installation Manual, it talks about an automatic transmission andthe nextparagraph talks about a manual transmission. Manual transmission Quote: "On a vehicle with a manual transmission, the TACH wire connection is not required only when CLUTCH DISENGAGEMENT SWITCH (Kit# 250-4206) has been installed." Unquote. I took that to mean that since you andI already havea clutch disengagement switch, NSS wire, hooked up that it doesn't matter which transmission is selected with the #1 and #2 switches. Since our Goldwings have Manual Transmission, I chose Manual. I did wonder why you chose Automatic but I didn't and still don't think it makes any difference.
One thing that I still want to check out. On our Goldwings,if in gear, the starter won'tworkuntil the clutch is almost completely depressed. If cruise control is set, at say 60 mph, and you orI pull the clutch slowly, as the clutch plates start to slip, will the engine start to over speed? Our first day of testing, my son mentioned to me that the clutch had to be fully depressed for the cruise to disengage, and that the GL 1500 disengages with just a touch of the clutch lever. I'm thinking, the GL 1500 must have two switches, one for the start function, and another one for the cruise control disengage. Need to look that up, the GL 1500 book is at my son's home. Anyway I am not worried about this sinceI can't think of any timeI would slowly pull the clutch lever while flying down the road, or, anyway that I can get the transmission into neutral at above 33 mph without using the clutch. When slowing from higher speeds, I am always clutching, downshifting, and braking.
Interesting to see what your thoughts are on hooking up the TACH wire to prevent overspeed. As for me, I am about as happy as a pig in slop!:cheeky1:
 

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Wichita Scorpion wrote:
...Interesting to see what your thoughts are on hooking up the TACH wire to prevent overspeed. ...
My conclusion (not tested)was that the tach function would not work properly with the CDI ignition (regardless of the cc settings)... Based on my discussions with Rostra, it is expecting a rather clean pulsed or square wave signal as for example at specific,rather cleantach connections (for example atconventional Kettering points set-up or at electronic ignition pulse generatorsor at the ECU tach output). I have looked at the GL1100 coil primary voltage and it is a typical trashy CDI voltage (peaks at a couple hundred volts and oscillates as it decays in a few milliseconds) which I think would require a "tach filter" to make the blue wire hookup work properly... You can buy them (about 20 bucks) or I made one (2 bucks). I will post on that later... And it would be interesting to determine what the actual tach overspeed value is... I understand it is 4000 pulses (same as rpm for the GL1100), and that would work most of the time with the wing...But my primaryinterest is to use the filtered CDI voltage as input to the VSS (gray wire) so that other wing owners (without a VSS) could use the Rostra without the magnets. (More on that later too.)

Thanks for your pictures... I noticed you custom bracket to support the CPU/Servo unit... Make a few extras and probably someone would buy it.. :goofygrin:
 

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Wichita Scorpion wrote:
.. One thing that I still want to check out. On our Goldwings,if in gear, the starter won'tworkuntil the clutch is almost completely depressed. If cruise control is set, at say 60 mph, and you orI pull the clutch slowly, as the clutch plates start to slip, will the engine start to over speed?...
I have never pulled th clutch in slowly to check.. I'll try that tonight on the way home.. I can't think of a time when I might normally do this either.. maybe slowly out, but slowly in? I do know that the cc will disengage with normal clutching for shifting gears; I've tried that.. give a slight blip in engine speed before disengaging.. And I think that you are correect, there must be two switches in the 1500.

Another feature of the 1500 is that forcing the throttle closed will disengage the cruise. In the future, I may add that feature to the 1100 as well... my method willl be to use a spring as part ofmy bead chain connector with a simple elecrical disconnect (inside the spring)in series with the brake lowside wire that opens when the spring begins to extend. This would allow me to override (and disengage)the cruise with the throttle.
 

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sandiegobrass wrote:
"...I have never pulled th clutch in slowly to check.. I'll try that tonight on the way home.. "
Tried it... the clutch does slip before the switch closes right about in the middle of the clutch throw... by just a mm or two.. I could probably put a little more play in the clutch and make the switch come first, but that would be defeating the function intended (prevent starting with drivetrain engaged), so I will leave it as is.. Jim
 

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I can't imagine any situation where you, me, or anyone else would slowly pull the clutch traveling above 33 mph. I think we are OK with the way you set everything up.
I did check some on the schematics for the GL 1500 Cruise Control. They have disable switches all over the place, one being on the clutch engaging just as you start to pull the clutch. There are two switches at the clutch lever. Also found it works on vacuum, didn't know that. Thanks for everything.:clapper:
 

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Wichita Scorpion wrote:
... Also found it works on vacuum,.....
Almost every factory cruise system uses vacuum.. not going to write a dissertation as to why, except to say that after studying this for a while, I came to the conclusion that a vacuum controlled servo is ideally suited for this type of application. If requires the simplest type of controller (open to vacuum if too slow, open to vent if too fast, closed if right on), it is inherently stable, and requires minimal tuning... If I were doing it again, I'd certainly try the vacuum... not that I don't like what I have.. I just need another research project... :2finger:
 

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:waving:This is update on my 1983 GL 1100A Cruise Control installation. We haven't been on any long trips but have had time to check out the operation, slow, fast, up and down hills, level. I am very well satisfied with the way it operates. I did take the slack out at the arm connection and the Cruise engages as soon as I push the set, not a delay like before.
Coupleother things:
1. I installed LEDs in place of incandescentbulbs in the Aspy and sidecar (tail, brake, turn). The Cruise would not engage until I putone incandescent tail/brake bulb back in the sidecar. :baffled:May work on that later.
2. Since I had replaced an OEMbad turn signal relay with one recommended on this forum, locally available Tridon Stant EP 28, I found that it is compatible with the LEDs, works great.
Thanks again, sandiegobrass, for all your work, your help,and for posting the procedures on this forum. :clapper::clapper:
 

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Wichita Scorpion wrote:
1. I installed LEDs in place of incandescentbulbs in the Aspy and sidecar (tail, brake, turn). The Cruise would not engage until I putone incandescent tail/brake bulb back in the sidecar. :baffled:May work on that later.
Thank you.. incidently the LED stuff was covered in the installation pdf...... quote:


[align=left]Violet wire
-...If you are using diode lamps instead of bulbs, you will have to add a normally closed relay that opens when the brakes are pressed.....[/align]

[align=left]Jim[/align]
 

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Just an up date... the Rostra unit on my GL1100 definitely works better than the OEM on my GL1500... and I have about 5000 miles on it now...I ride to work 35 miles each way.. almost all "freeway".... some hills... I prefer the GL1100 for the cruise... even though for just about everything else, the 1500 wins...
 

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Quick note.. my hosting service has deleted all my files... they say they are restoring them.. so my links here should be restored soon.. Sorry for any inconvenience.. Jim

I am in theprocess of restoring them.. This thread should be up to date... PM if you see anything missing.. Jim
 

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Hey guys, just wanted to post my experience so maybe will help someone out.

I installed the Audiovox unit which worked great for a few thousand miles then for some unknown reason it started acting up.
The problems seemed to come on slowly, it would engage fine then after a couple minutes I'd get a surge in the throttle then it would drop out completely. I didnt do anything to source the problem because all my riding has been places I couldnt use the cruise anyway.
We're planning a vacation so I decided to dig into the problem, which had gotten worse to the point that all it would do was pull the throttle once then release when hitting set then it would drop out.
I checked all the connections, redid some, played with some settings but it never came back so tired of playing with it I decided to install a Rostra unit.
I'm thinkin maybe the location I had it right behind the right lower fairing cover may have cooked something so I went with behind the right hard bag like Sandi.

I used the supplied heavy gage strap and drilled 2 holes in the fender to bolt on.
When the shocks bottom it just contacts the box.

(Yeah, I dont want it to get wet and short out, the dip switch cover is getting a thick coat of silicone too :)



Having parts from 2 kits comes in handy when making the cable clamp, it's mounted to the same place as before on the fuel filter bolt.



Time to get creative making the throttle link. Sandi isnt kidding when he says th metal has to be thin to fit on the linkage.
A Sawzall blade fits perfectly.



The blade has a tab and the hole in it are placed just right so when the CC pulls on the linkage the blade tab contacts the linkage just perfectly. It was like the Sawzall blade was created for just this purpose!
Weld a bolt on, cut to size and grind smooth and it's ready to go.





This link bracket extension thingy provided about 2 1/2" of linkage travel, way more than what Rostra says as a minimum of 1 5/8". I think this is causing some problems tuning it because the travel is so great. The CC has a long way to pull I guess, anyway what happens is the CC is slow to react to speed changes so I'm loosing 2-3 MPH when starting a climb then gaining sometimes 5 MPH going over the top. Otherwise on level ground and slight hills it stays within 1-2 MPH.

I made this shorter link to try out tomorrow, too damn hot right now to test it.



Setting up the dip switches has been very odd, the final settings are very different than I expected.

Gain I set to "High", I have to retry "Low" again, I dont remember what effect it had.

9650 PPM was VERY erratic. It surged a lot then would apply damn near 1/2 throttle then level off then loose speed, like the CC was "hunting" for a happy medium but never found it.
After trying lower (worse) then higher (better each higher number) then stopping at 18000 it smooothed right out like a CC should be with gradual throttle movements to correct speed.

Engine/Setup Timer:

"8 Cylinder Low" resulted in what I consider a longer than acceptable time before the CC takes control of the throttle.
"4 cylinder High" makes the CC take the throttle almost instantly.

That's my experience so far. I'll post what I've done to further "tweak" the settings.



(The next day)

Ok, went for a ride with my son and it works great.

I used the shorter throttle link which seems perfect, nice smooth action holding the speed with no hunting or strange accelerations or decels.
It does seem to have a bit of a problem keeping accurate speed going down hill when first starting the down hill grade from a set speed. It will try to slow the speed unsuccessfully then there comes a point where I get an abrupt "closure" of the throttle. That happens just one time and not all the time then it recovers smoothly.
It's acceptable to me so I'm just going to chock it up to the nature of the beast.

I tried the "Low" gain setting. It would loose at least 5 mph before accelerating so back it went to "High"

My final settings are:

Gain= High
Pulses Mile= 18,000
Engine/Setup timer= 4 cylinder High
VSS source= On ( I used the VSS in the speedo)
Transmission= On
Control Switch= Off

The "tach wire is grounded.
The neutral (or clutch cutoff) wire is not connected.

All things considered the Rostra is easier to install because it doesnt need vacuum.
It most definitely is harder to set up than The Audiovox unit which was pretty much plug and play.

My testing has been only for about 100 miles so far so I may change my opinion later but If I we're to do another bike I'd choose the Rostra only because it doesnt need a vacuum source and storage container, BUT, if I wanted dead on control within 1 MPH I'd go with the Audiovox.
I cant say for certain why the Audiovox died, was it heat? was it vibration? or was it chance I got a defective unit? I may never know unless someone wants it to experiment on (I'll send it to you) but it worked great when it WAS working.
 

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I think if you keep tweaking the adjustments on the Rostra you'll be able to get it to stay within 1mph until a hill gets too steep for full throttle or too steep a down grade for a closed throttle to hold. I had to play around with the various settings when I installed a Rostra in my old diesel Dodge. One thing I found is that the amound of slack is important, too much and the control comes on way too slow and too little and you get somewhat jerky or too quick operation. The amount of slack in the throttle cable changes the way the sensitivity control works, they play against each other. It took me a while but I eventually got better results with the Rostra than the factory unit in my Mercury Gran Marquis and that one was very good.
 

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Like exavid said.. I think you could probably find some better settings.. The 18000 ppm setting that you are usingis about double the actual 9650 ppm as measured.. and this affects gain as much as anything else and won't lock on until going considerably more than the target 35 mph... Personally, I thinkthe longerlinkage is better, although it will work with the shorter as well as others have demonstrated... Mine is working within +- 1mph and Iuse it every day... The linked document in the first post has a map of how the different adjustments interact... At first glance, the changes I'd make are back to 9650.. this will alsochange the gain which you don't need, so you'll need to change gain.. probably to low.. also, the 4cyl high settingaffects gain, so this could bechanged as well..


Also, I need to recheck my data because dan's description of the affect of ppm is exactly opposite the way thedata was presented in the document.. I am hoping that I did not make an error in reporting it (and only finding it a year later) It is possible that Imay have reversed the 8000 and 10000 when making the table. I need to find the original data and check.. and I never tested 12000.. just put it in the table as a possibility with the trend established by 8000, 9650, 10000 points..
 

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SDB, I did want to explain all the steps I took to arrive at those settings over the course of at least 4 hours riding but decided not to, and I certainly want to thank you for all the hard work you put in with all the testing and documentation then creating the pdf. I've done a few documentations, much smaller but still, so I can appreciate how much work and dedication goes into it.

Like I said in my earlier post, I was surprised to end up at the settings I did. They are even very different than the Audiovox, dare I say almost as if they are reversed, at least some of them.

I spent easily 4 hours riding, stopping, riding, tweaking settings starting from the baseline settings you wrote on page 12.

With those baseline settings the CC acted like it was getting confusing signals.
It would accel then decel repeatedly and harshly then smooth out some but never steady, then accel and decel repeatedly and at random. Very unstable.

I'm not much for lengthy discussions describing all the setting changes and the sequences I took getting there but suffice it to say, I didnt just pull them out of a hat or make any rash decisions (hasty is the word I'm looking for) to make the change, same applies to the throttle link. Shortening it smoothed out the actions considerably after getting the DIP'S set to the best it will operate BEFORE shortening the link because it acted as if the cable travel was too long.
After shortening it no more changes needed to be made, it smoothed right out.

btw, the reason I shorted the link is because the Audiovox was connected directly to the #4 carb pin and it was smooth, my first link was much longer than yours too so...

All I know is at this point throttle action is smooth, precise and predictable with no jerky accel's or decel's.
It's lowest set speed is 40 MPH, works at 75 which is fast enough for me, and speed is maintained within 1 mph on level ground and 2-3 up and down hill.

What more is needed regardless of where the DIP'S are set, right?

So you know, I mean no disrespect, I'm just saying what I ended up with after hours of trial and error is different than what you and others have found.
Maybe there is something wrong with the unit I got, in which case it will likely fail at some point, time and miles will tell.

That's the way my luck goes sometimes, I end up having to find out the hard way.
 
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