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I was reading on another site (or here) about the new RotellaT oil causing the clutches to slip. Mine started to get a little hard to shift so I plan on changing it with another brand.

I don't know what the deal is with the Rotella but I want to go with another synthetic. I did a search and couldn't find anything, does anyone have another top of the line synthetic brand they use.

I think someone told me the Rotella changed over to 'Energy Saving' and is too slippery for the clutches. Whatever I only have 4000 miles on this change and it's getting harder to shift without clunking.

I was told to stick with Synthetic if thats what I've been using.

Al
 

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I use Amsoil synthetic. I've had it in my 95 Aspy about 2500 miles now and have had no clutch issues what so ever. I'm pretty sure Amsoil was the originators of synthetic oil. I manage the fleet of a construction company and we use their oil in all of our machines and trucks and have never had a failure to date. In our Chevy field pickups, we change the filters at 3,000 miles and the oil at 20,000. I think they recommend 25,000 but we change it out at 20. In my bike, I would probably change it out at 4000 miles and change the filter.

Ed
 

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Texas Boy
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I'm running Rotella T synthetic with no problems. It doesn't specify "Energy Conserving" on the label. As I understand it, oils that are certified for diesel engines don't use friction modifiers like many automotive oils do. I could be wrong on that, but I seem to recall reading that somewhere.
 

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I have a container of Rotella T Synthetic in my garage and it doesn't say energy conserving, so its OK for wet clutches. Unless they VERY recently switched... You might have some other problem with your clutch.
AMS oil is very good synthetic oil, but also very expensive. The Rotella T Synthetic is an excellent group 3 oil and about $18 per gallon at wally world. That with a Pure ONe oil filter (or similar) should be a dynamite combination. I still like to change both about every 3-4000 miles. The VTX folks are anal about oil and filters--see the VTXOA BB for far more than you ever wanted to know about oil.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

Some exerpts from that discussion:

Three synthetics stand out from the rest: Mobil Delvac 1, Mobil-1 SUV and Shell Rotella T Synthetic...have more expensive additive packages which are meant to prolong engine life and oil life, as opposed to being cheap to buy...Shell Rotella-T Synthetic is available at Wal-Mart for $13 / gallon, so I consider this the motor oil of choice. The synthetic diesel oils are 5w-40 oils. Some people have expressed concern to me that this doesn't match the 10w-40 specification for their engine. The 5w rating only applies when the oil is cold, below about 80° f. Once your oil and engine are up to operating temperature, these are 40 weight oils, just like all the others. In cold conditions, under 40° f, the 5w oils are much better for your engine than a 10w oil.

AMSOil, Motul 5100, Mobil-1 MX4T, Mobil-1, Redline, and Golden Spectro are apparently made with high quality additive packages, similar to the commercial synthetics. They are all fine oils, and perfectly acceptable to run in your motorcycle. They are a bit on the pricey side. Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline and Motul synthetics contain no petroleum oils - they're pure synthetic. To the best of my knowledge, all other synthetic oils contain some amount of Group III oil.
 

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Predator wrote:
I don't know what the deal is with the Rotella but I want to go with another synthetic. I did a search and couldn't find anything, does anyone have another top of the line synthetic brand they use.

I was told to stick with Synthetic if thats what I've been using.
Most "experts" agree there is no longer any problem with changing between synthetic and petroleum motor oils. Indeed, many oil producers now have product lines which include blended oils. Also note that many car makers now ship their high-end vehicles with synthetic oils in them, and, due to relatively new refinery techniques, premium petroleum-based oils tend to rival the synthetics in previously exclusive categories like heat tolerance and cold viscosity.

You really should be sure to use the oil classification specified in your owner's manual (ie: SF, or SJ, etc.) or better, and the recommended viscosity (10W30, etc.). These are some kind of minimum service application ratings, and generally, the higher up the alphabet they go, the better the oil can serve the engine.

As it happens, I use the Amsoil 10W40 for motorcycles in my GL1200. For me, it is available off the shelf where I also get my other automotive supplies. I would not hesitate to use another brand if it were any more convenient for me...some links below to aid in your research...:waving:


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

http://www.amsoil.com/

http://www.redlineoil.com/

http://www.schaefferoil.com/

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Home/Homepage.aspx
 

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Texas Boy
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In addition it is also true that there are many refined oils which are now labeled as synthetic. This is legal because they meet the same industry standards as true synthetics, even though they are technically refined dino oil.
 

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The wing I just bought has Castrol 10w40 and was changed just before I bought it. I am considering Amsoil 10w40 because I put it in a new '06 Kawasaki 900 @ 4K miles and had no problems when I sold it with 26K miles.
The Shell Rotella T Syn at $13 a gal is tempting though.
 

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I had been a faithful Castrol GTX unpaid endorser until I read that many oil makers have changed thier formulation - largely due to the vast number of cars with roller valve train vs the old school slipper technology.

Any way, compounds with Molibdomim (Moly) and a couple other "heavy metals" have been reduced or elimanated entirely from many "Old school" lubes

I haven't been too fond of Amsoil since the 2 stroke oil seperated out on my gocart.(Burn me once)

Shell Rotella T was the new best choice =- last time I checked.




Works great in the olBarracuda 340 Formula S too! Don't laugh - it's paid for and someday - MAYBE - it'l be worth about what I have spent on it
HTH!
 

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Using Rotella T Syn in the 96 due to touring and the long hours and miles put on. Running Rotella dino in the 82 as it is short trips basicly back and forth to work.



Change after about 6,000mi on the 96 and change between 3-4,000 on the 82.
 

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Whew too many different opinions to try to make a brand opinion that way. I went to a local all-around bike shop that has been in business locally for over 30 years. I ended up buying Castrol Power RS R44T 5W40. There was a guy there buyiing a pair of 'cool gloves for 50 bucks saying he uses RotellaT cause he gets it cheap at WalMart. I think that sold me the most.

I don't know why the Rotella broke down after 3000 miles but it doesn't seem to be anissue of saving a few bucks. I put the new oil in and it shifted smooth as silk right after the change. I'll see how it holds up.



Thanks for all the input. Al
 

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Texas Boy
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I'm a Rotella T synthetic fan, but the bottom line is that if the oil is the right weight and doesn't have friction modifiers and you use a good, quality filter and change it often you'll be fine. You could run buck a quart Wal-Mart store brand oil if you have a good filter and change it every 1500 miles. The higher quality oils hold up longer, keep their viscosity longer and are more shear resistant.

I use a diesel certified oil because in some of my research I learned that those oils are supposed to have a higher shear resistance. Since the oil in wings is used in the tranny, it is more susceptible to shear. I may be spending extra money for nothing since I change my oil between 3 and 4 thousand miles, but it makes me feel better.
 

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The GL1800 now has 26,000 + miles using Rotella T. I"m on tour with almost 5,000 miles on the current oil change with another 2000 miles to get back home. No issues with this oil. Last year's tour, this bike saw over 8,000 miles on the oil change and no issues. Normal oil changes are around 4,000 miles do to short hauls.



Longboater
 
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