[wingwarrior]

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Hey Guys just found your site think its great jut buy going through the post I think you helped with things I have been having trouble with thanks a lot.

Iam haveing trouble shifting on my 86 1200ASP with about 20000 miles on it I was in the trans. last winter it all looked good nothing bent or broken all in spec. the only thing I found were sone out of round bushing that sat under the gears I replaced then all.I have to go back in the replace the back cover gasketbecause of a small oil leak. I was think on doing the clutch while I was in there. Any thoughts from all you wing nuts out their. While the motor is out I was going to do the wre harness from Dave Cambel have any of you out their used this harness.

Any help would be great



Thanks Koots

 

[mjpliv]

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Welcome to the forum wingwarrior .

I am a newbie too but the gurus will answer your questions before you know it!

 

[Jason]

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Hi Koots. Is the rough shifting in all gears or just some?

 

[wingdawg101]

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Hey Bro,

Would be helpful to explain what you mean by "Rough shifting" to help "Jason" figure it out, He's the Man!

Stiff getting it in gears, Have to double shift to get in, or Jsut loud clunks when it goes in ?

Sometimes if I "Pre-Load my shift it makes it much smoother!

By Pre-Load I mean I put a little pressure on the shifter before I pull in the clutch!

By the way where are you at in "Illinois?

 

[Dave Campbell]

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Engine tuning problems can make them hard to shift, besides they are "clunky" anyway, I often just ignored the clutch and speed shifted it. Id think if you are good enough to take that engine apart and reassemble it, you probably would have found anything that was broken.

Clutch dragging? Should be able to set it on the main stand, run engine at idle in 1st gear, clutch in and stop the rear wheel by hand. I use a foot on the side of the tire to stop it.

 

[wingwarrior]

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No just 1st through 3rd it dosnt go in to gear like it should mor like a ratchiting effect

 

[wingwarrior]

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wingdawg101 wrote:

Hey Bro,

Would be helpful to explain what you mean by "Rough shifting" to help "Jason" figure it out, He's the Man!

Stiff getting it in gears, Have to double shift to get in, or Jsut loud clunks when it goes in ?

Sometimes if I "Pre-Load my shift it makes it much smoother!

By Pre-Load I mean I put a little pressure on the shifter before I pull in the clutch!

By the way where are you at in "Illinois?

it in 1st through 3rd mostly its like a bad ratchiting effect it dosnt do it all the time seames like when the engine get hot and the oil thins out

 

[wingwarrior]

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no just 1st through 3rd like a bad ratchiting effect dosnt do it all the time mostly after the engine heats up like I said I have to go back in in the next few weeks to replace the back cover gasket

 

[wingwarrior]

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wingdawg101 wrote:

Hey Bro,

Would be helpful to explain what you mean by "Rough shifting" to help "Jason" figure it out, He's the Man!

Stiff getting it in gears, Have to double shift to get in, or Jsut loud clunks when it goes in ?

Sometimes if I "Pre-Load my shift it makes it much smoother!

By Pre-Load I mean I put a little pressure on the shifter before I pull in the clutch!

By the way where are you at in "Illinois?

In the northen part up by libertyville munedlein veronhill area

 

[wingwarrior]

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Dave Campbell wrote:

Engine tuning problems can make them hard to shift, besides they are "clunky" anyway, I often just ignored the clutch and speed shifted it. Id think if you are good enough to take that engine apart and reassemble it, you probably would have found anything that was broken.

Clutch dragging? Should be able to set it on the main stand, run engine at idle in 1st gear, clutch in and stop the rear wheel by hand. I use a foot on the side of the tire to stop it.

the engine gone through tuning twice a year spring and mid summer pilot screw adjustmeny carb sync valve timming all that good stuff

theres no clutch drag Iam thinging its the oil every time I change it it seames to work ok for a while tryed all types might go with syn. oil but want to get the oil leak fixed frist oh by the way Iam sending you a check this weekend for a harness

 

[Renegade]

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Suggestion.... In colder weather, run the lighter oils and in warmer weather, run the heavier oils.. Sounds like clutch drag to me, or air in the lines to the slave cylinder...

1st... (cheap fix), bleed the clutch. I know it may feel solid and work every time, but do it anyway with DOT-4 fluid. Can't hoit!!!

2nd... You mentioned that when you change the oil, the wratcheting noise goes away for a while and comes back... If my geography is right, Illinois is in the cold zone right now, and you should be running 10w/40 oil, or lighter 10W/30 depending on just how cold it is... We're down in the 20's here in the northeast, so you must be close in that temperature range...Also, be sure to use a high detergent oil... The bike is old, with low mileage so there's a good chance that varnish has built up inside and covered the shift pawl and shaft.

As for tuning on the engine,,, a high idle rpm will tend to cause the same wratcheting noise when shifting in the lower gears until the output shaft speed matches the the final drive gear speed. The 1st thru 3rd gears "freewheel" between shifts, so if they are gummed up, they will be much slower than the required speed when meshing with the drive gear on the up shift. This makes the teeth not want to mesh right away until the gear speed has increased...If these tranny's had syncros, you wouldn't have this problem...

 

[wingdawg101]

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Check with these guys first, but I would drain the oil put in some cheap oil - 1 QT and put in some "Non-foaming" Tranny fluid or a quart of "Marvel Mystery oil" drive it "Very Gently"( low RPMs)for 20 miles shifting alot, then let it idol for 10 minutes and drain it!

Then I'd put Mobil 1"5W 40" for Ill. weather with 4 OZ of Marvel Mystery Oil, that might clean off those clutch plates, depending how dirty they are!

I've done this with good luck!

What do you guys think?

 

[Renegade]

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I agree Wingdawg.. Glad you brought it up because the forum got a lot of this last riding season..The whole focus ended up on what was the best oil to use and completely missed the hard shifting problem.. MMO has additives that ATF does not, and vise / versa (or is it veesee / versee). Anyway, the point is to get something into the engine to clean the varnish out... Could also use SeaFoam, but be very careful.. It not only cleans, but cuts the lubricating properties of the oil within a very short time... Change the oil filter with each oil change...

 

[wingwarrior]

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Thank for all the help I was going to do some type of engine oil flush be for i tore it down to replace the back cover gasket after reading all the post on the oils and the stuff you all use I do belive that some type ofengine fulsh will do the job

once again thank to all of you :walker:latter for now:15green:

ride safe

 

[englishted]

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I've successfully cured rought shifting on my GL1500. The clutch gave some trouble a couple of years ago and I fitted a new one. But before I did I took a file and filed off all the sharp edges on each clutch plate. Just a small bit so that the plates would be less inclined to stick in the basket. I did teh same with the basket where the plates sit in the slots. Now I've probably got the slickest shifting GL1500 on the planet.
I learned that trick from a mate who builds racing bikes.

 

[Steveie1]

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Has anyone tried Activ8 in there Wing its an oil additive I have used it in my VFR400 race bike it makes the gears really slick it can be used in bikes with a wet clutch a friend of mine put it in CBR600 top speed went from 150 to 160mph it really is good stuff they do have a web site Activ8 Friction Reducer - Engine and Gearbox Oil Additive .

 

[wingwarrior]

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I've successfully cured rought shifting on my GL1500. The clutch gave some trouble a couple of years ago and I fitted a new one. But before I did I took a file and filed off all the sharp edges on each clutch plate. Just a small bit so that the plates would be less inclined to stick in the basket. I did teh same with the basket where the plates sit in the slots. Now I've probably got the slickest shifting GL1500 on the planet.
I learned that trick from a mate who builds racing bikes.


Thanks Ted Ill give that a try I have to go in anywas fot fix an oil leak and was going to put a new clutch in while I was in their :cheeky1::clapper:

 

[Guest]

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Steveie1 wrote:

Has anyone tried Activ8 in there Wing its an oil additive, a friend of mine put it in CBR600 top speed went from 150 to 160mph it really is good stuff.

Hey Steveie1 :gunhead:

I dont think many wing riders would be interested in those speeds. :whip: I hope your friend was doing those speeds off the public roads. :stumped:

:leprechaun: :18red: :leprechaun:

 

[Dave Campbell]

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Renegade wrote:

As for tuning on the engine,,, a high idle rpm will tend to cause the same wratcheting noise when shifting in the lower gears until the output shaft speed matches the the final drive gear speed.

Theres the important point! Synchro speed. If the speed is hanging up or falling too quickly they will be hard to shift. IVe run 10W-30 and 40 in this weather with no ill effects.