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I decided to check out a few prices here in Victoria, on Vancouver Island for those common Goldwing parts we all crave for and replace as time warrants.

"SG Power" have a sale on tires at the moment 'till the end of the month. I priced some tires, my back tire which is a Dunlop E2 is getting a little thin but still legal, but it's always worth it to get a tire in advance for replacement. I was considering a:
Michelin Pilot GT to match the one on the front but was quoted, wait for it, $296.99 + 5% + 7%PST = $332.61

or a Dunlop E3 Reg price $321.99 on sale for $193.19 + taxes comes to $216.37 plus fitting at about $20.
Would it be worth my while going to the mainland and picking one over there? Would it be worth it considering the ferry costs both ways of circa $48 ($24 each way) weekdays return or $72 ($36 each way) return on weekends.

The Dunlop maybe the way to go! Maybe I should shod the front while I'm at it although I find the Michelin and Dunlop are a fine mix.

Next on the list are the timing belts and tensioners. After reading SDB's excellent research on the tensioners and his in-depth discussion about the various alternatives, I thought I'd investigate a little just to see how much I could save myself by doing his conversion.
At SG I was quoted $84.16 per belt and $80.08 for each tensioner. This was from the Honda web site. So the sum total for a pair of belts $168.32 and a pair of tensioners @160.16 comes to $367.90 inc 12% taxes.

Next I went to Napa and checked out their prices on the Gates T42015 idler pulley and they work out at $34 each plus taxes. The 10mm wheel studs were $2.39 each and the Gates T275 timing belts are $50 each.

I also checked out Goodyear's 40275 belt at Auto Sense at $37.39 each. These would be a back order with a wait of three to four weeks or direct from Goodyear plus another $20 for shipping air mail.

So there you have it, Napa works out as the cheapest here anyway. Two belts at $50 each + two idler pulleys @ $34 each + two studs @$2.39 each = $193.51 inc taxes. The belts and pulleys are overnight from Vancouver.

I had mentioned in a previous post that I had been told that there was an alternative belt from LORDCO but this is a plain belt not toothed and is of no use to us.
 

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Napa has always been good for me too........... WWW.JakeWilson.com had Dunlop E2's Rear tire for 135.00 and that included shipping.
 

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If I remember correctly (pick below), the 10mm studs also have ~10mm shoulders and the plate has 14mm hole, so something as a shimming collar (14mm to 10mm) is required.... The 10mm stud is a good choice. I like it. But you will need something for the gap.. fact is, the head of the 10mm stud will be self centering in the 14mm hole and still has enough of the head to hold it and anything to fill the space would probably work (like orings, wrapped wire, tape..)... but do use thread locker, and because the stud is not well captured (without a tight collar), you may have to grab the head with something like vice grips to get started..
 

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Just another ORF!
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Colm. You might want to think about obtaining those items Stateside, shipped to a UPS Store(or some othershipping address)in Blaine or Mt Veron/Burlington, if you take the Anacortes ferry from Sydney.

Napa sells the belts for approx $29 each. Usually have 1 in stock and will get the other one in for you with their next day shipping. Give them a call ahead of time so they'll have em both there for you.

A set of Dunlop E IIIs fromWing World (for example),will set you back $389.39CDN, plus the $4-5US, for parcel pick up at the UPS store(or similar) shipping/receiving address($134.99US front + $169.99US rear = $304.98US X 1.14 exchange rate= $347.67CDN + 12% taxes($41.72CDN) = $389.39CDN

I rarely buy anything for local stealers, as I only live 40 minutes from Oroville WA and it costs me $4US per package. Usually shipping within the lower 48 is free when ordering something over anywhere from $49US - $199US(store dependant) My favorite little border crossing at Nighthawk/Chopaka most the time doesn't even charge me taxes! ;)

So, if you plan ahead and figure out all what you need and get it shipped to a US shipping address, you'll save substantially, Even more if you are away for 48 hrs, or 7 days, as you are allowed $450 and $750 dollars tax free, respectively.

Just a thought. :waving:

Opps .... forgot to add - Not all US Internet stores will accept a Canadian billing address for an American shipping addy, but a lot do! Like anything else, shop around. I(and others)have saved a lot of $$ doing it that way. They know me by my first name, at my US shipping addy in Oroville. :D
 

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SDB, may I bend your ear again?

I have two of the studs here with me as I write, Tom and Jerry.

I'm asking this in ignorance, as I don't have the tensioner and backplate in my hand for comparison.

May I ask you why you suggest drilling out the old Honda mounting stud with 1/2" drill? Would it be better in this case, to drill it out with a 10mm bit, and either tap or pull through the splined stud into the plate with a bush, washer and nut? This would seat the stud better in the backing plate. My main concern here is that the 1/2" hole is about 12.7mm and the end plate of the stud is only 15.8mm. This allows 3mm play which is a bit too much slop in my opinion even with a bush.

The shimming collar you mention, is this for the mounting hole of the tensioner, to center it correctly or a combination of both the stud and the tensioner in the back plate?

One other concern here is this, is there enough room behind the tensioner mounting plate to accomodate the thicker stud base?

I suppose the other unanswered question here is what diameter is the original Honda Stud we are drilling into, is it 13mm and that is the reason for using the 1/2" drill bit?

Thanks Colm
 

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Of course you are right Dusty, it is cheaper to wander across the border and pick up from a Drop shop.
I was just wandering around comparison shopping, yesterday. I had been re reading SDB's belt tensioner modification and was just checking locally for the ingredients.
I just happened to drop into SG Power to check up on the timing belts and found that they had a tire sale on. The biggest hassel really about going to the US are the ferry costs and taking two days off work.
I suppose if I plan ahead and order all the things I need hopefully one day will do it. I saved a bundle last time. I got two of Motorcycle Superstore jackets for less than the cost of just one jacket here even after paying the taxes and that was just $400 dollars savings in that one instance. But I don't have money to burn, sadly enough but even in just buying one tire I could have a holiday of sorts compared to buying it here.

It's worth while comparing even if you get a surprise now and then. Sometimes, sometimes you get a deal on your own doorstep!
 

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Wingle wrote:
SDB, may I bend your ear again?

I have two of the studs here with me as I write, Tom and Jerry.

I'm asking this in ignorance, as I don't have the tensioner and backplate in my hand for comparison.

May I ask you why you suggest drilling out the old Honda mounting stud with 1/2" drill? Would it be better in this case, to drill it out with a 10mm bit, and either tap or pull through the splined stud into the plate with a bush, washer and nut? This would seat the stud better in the backing plate. My main concern here is that the 1/2" hole is about 12.7mm and the end plate of the stud is only 15.8mm. This allows 3mm play which is a bit too much slop in my opinion even with a bush.

Using the 1/2" drill is so that the old stuff can be removed... with the 14mm hole (0.551") in the plate, this leaves a 0.025" wall... and your thinking is good... drilling with a 10mm drill would work and eliminate the need for a bushing.. in this case, I'd cut the original stud off behind the bearing (hack saw or cutoff).. file/grind both sides smooth.. punch and drill the 10mm with a drill press (if I could).. and exact center would not be critical.. then pull the stud through while mounting the bearing.. pulling it tight will align the bearing with the plate.. that method would work very good, I think.. basically you are making the shim collar that I speak about in place

The shimming collar you mention, is this for the mounting hole of the tensioner, to center it correctly or a combination of both the stud and the tensioner in the back plate?

The shimming collar is just to take up the space between the 14mm hole on the plate and the 10 (actually 10.3mm) of the stud shoulder... the backside of the plate has a 45 degree chamfer, so the head will center pretty much by itself if you are using it that way, and the head is 1.8 mm greater than the diameter of the hole, so you won't pull it through..

One other concern here is this, is there enough room behind the tensioner mounting plate to accomodate the thicker stud base?

Lots of room... you can put your finger back there.. and even a 10mm hex head bolt has enough room, .. The stud is just stronger (usually)..

I suppose the other unanswered question here is what diameter is the original Honda Stud we are drilling into, is it 13mm and that is the reason for using the 1/2" drill bit?

as stated.. it is a 14mm hole with about a 1mm chamfer on the back side


Thanks Colm
sounds good... hope this helps.. SDB/Jim
 

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Well SDB thank you for all your suggestions. I'll order the parts soon and next month, when I have some time off, set about fitting them all together. I'll take pictures for the family album of course.
 

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Does RockAuto.com ship to Canada..if so they have really good prices on the belts and bearings.. example:
 

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Hi,
I recommend American Moto tire for tires. They have the best prices I have found. Needless to say do shop a bit.
If you decide to go for OEM idlers the best prices I have found is Chweap cycle parts.
I get my timing belts from Rock Auto Parts.
Good luck,
Greg

http://www.americanmototire.com/
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/
 

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sandiegobrass wrote:
Does RockAuto.com ship to Canada..if so they have really good prices on the belts and bearings.. example:
Thanks SDB, that's a great source.
I don't know, but at those prices I could afford to pop on the ferry and pick them up myself. The belts "T275" are quoted at $17.93 which is a steal at twice the price.
Thanks again
Colm
 

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Raveller wrote:
Hi,
I recommend American Moto tire for tires. They have the best prices I have found. Needless to say do shop a bit.
If you decide to go for OEM idlers the best prices I have found is Chweap cycle parts.
I get my timing belts from Rock Auto Parts.
Good luck,
Greg

http://www.americanmototire.com/
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/
Thanks Raveller, I'll give them both a look, Cheapcycle send to Canada which is a bonus!

Thanks again
 

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Americanmototire.com doesn't 'do business' with anyone outside the US, Colm.
 

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Thanks Dusty, I can get the Michelin Pilot Gt from Motorcycle-superstore.com for $148.99 which is about half price from a dealer here, with free shipping.

Cheap Cycle Parts are cheaper at $140 and change but they charge about $30 for postage to a US address.
 
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