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Hello, i am new to this site. I have rebuilt the carbs and resynced them seven or eight times and the bike still doesn't want to run under 3,000 rpms. If you guys have any suggestions i would greatly appreciate it. The bike will only run if the choke is on almost all the way and then it doesn't run very good at all. It just spits and sputters. It also has a thumping noise coming out of the left side of the engine sometimes. Thanks for any help you have. Oh i almost forgot. The bike is a 1985 Honda Goldwing GL1200 Apsencade. Thanks
 

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:waving::waving:Welcome to the Best Goldwing Site on the Internet skendall04!:waving::waving:

It doesn't sound like carb sync is your problem, it sounds like you might have an air leak below the carburetor body or plugged jets. could also be float levels too low. From your description I'd suspect either problems with the idle circuits being too lean or air getting in and leaning out the mixture.

Hang in here awhile some of the guys who are sharper on the 1200 carbs will undoubtedly help out soon.
 

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How is the spark? Fat and white with a noticable "Crack"? Or is it a thin blue silent spark?

What is your compression?



If the spark is poor, then this could be the problem, not sure if low compression could cause it, but may as well give it a check to see if it's even worht going further.
 

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Now you know why I couldn't wait to go to a single carb. I only had my set off about 3 times, and that was enough for me.

Raymond
 

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skendall04 wrote:
Hello, i am new to this site. I have rebuilt the carbs and resynced them seven or eight times and the bike still doesn't want to run under 3,000 rpms. If you guys have any suggestions i would greatly appreciate it. The bike will only run if the choke is on almost all the way and then it doesn't run very good at all. It just spits and sputters. It also has a thumping noise coming out of the left side of the engine sometimes. Thanks for any help you have. Oh i almost forgot. The bike is a 1985 Honda Goldwing GL1200 Apsencade.
skendall04, you mentioned rebuilding the carbs? Did you pull the pilot needles &get the pilot jet circuits (both fuel & air jets)cleaned out? If not it won't run at low RPM's worth a hoot.. Those carbs run mostly on the pilot jet circuits at no load 3000 RPM's..

You didn't mention doing an idle drop carb adjustment on the pilot jet needles but either do that (by the book) or just set the pilot needles from3 to 3-1/2 turns out from seated to start with (that should leave it a little rich at idle but should at least run good there)

How about the float levels? The float needles have little springs in them & if you compressed those springs when setting the float levels it will leave you with a very low fuel level in the carbs & could cause your problem.. TO SET the float levels you need to roll the carb over on it's side (at an angle) until the float tang JUST VERY LIGHTLY contacts the needle spring (not compressed), at that time the float height should be checked..

If the above isn't your problem then you either missed something in the carbs or you have an ignition problem at low RPM's or an exhaust problem feeding exhaust back into the intake manifold.

Are you ABSOLUTELY SURE you have the spark plug wires back on correctly (the Clymer manualis incorrect in this area in some of their manuals)..

One place you might look is at the exhaust "pulse air" check valve in the lower intake manifold. If those valves are burnt, warped, missing, or malfunctioning it will allow exhaust gas back into the intake manifold & that alone can cause some strange runability problems at certain throttle openings.

Can you give us any history on how or when your problem started? If so that might help us determine your problem..

Twisty
 

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Hey,
the bike has good spark i recently replaced the coils on the bike. As far as the carb issues i will have to get with my dad we rebuilt the carbs together. Maybe the both of us can try to figure out what all we did. Thanks for your help.
 

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You are having what sounds like the exact same problem I have. I had slight flooding problem, had the carbs cleaned by a tech, no difference. Back off , new needle and seat then would not work between 1500-3500 rpm. and engine knocking. Took them to another reputable dealer, cleaned again, new air cut off valves ,floats checked again for adjustment and a few other parts such as o-rings. No difference , still would hardly run between 1500-3500rpm.I was told that by having them calibrated would fix the problem, I plan on doing that later today. I for one, understand your frustration.
If you find out your problem, please post. I will do the same.

Lugnut

Just got back from having the carbs synched. Idles great but did not cure the problem. Ran it for about 70 miles but no difference.
 
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I have a 1976 GL1000 with the same problem, I have been trying for three years to fix it without success. I have tried everything possible to rectify the problem, and have now resigned myself to the fact that the Honda Goldwing is little more than a pile of poorly constructed, third rate shite not fit to urinate on when on fire. I am trying to sell it, but again with no luck, it would seem that mostpeople must be wise to these awfull motorcycles.

it might be worth attaching a heavy duty chain to it, tying it to a ship, and throwing it into the harbour where it would at least do some good. then go a buy yourselfa kawasaki which is a farbetter quality bike and will give you no problems. bail out now it aint worth the fixing.
 

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I had the exact same problem but it was a stuck float dumping fuel down the intake and back into the air box where it ran into the other carbs. I rebuilt the carbs with Randakks kit and the problem is gone. I even put the main and secondary air bleeds back in swapped and it idled ok but ran poorly.

The only other time I had this problem is when I lost power to one of the coils and lost two plugs. Since you ignition is good I would suspect fuel.

I would bet you've got too much fuel caused by a float that is not closing. Did you check the floats to see if they were fuel logged? Did you check the needle and seat to see if they were sealing before putting the carb back together? Did you replace the carb to airbok fuel seals?





http://www.randakks.com/Carb%20Parts.htm#6


If you did not replace these seals then you are very likely leaking fuel there. As you can see fromthe first picture the carb will not leak externally (these seals are inside the main carb seal) but will dump fuel internally.
 

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Actually, faulty fuel seals will leak externally. It happened to me, as i discovered that someone had put generic seals in there, not OEM radiused ones. I put the OE seals from my old carbs in, and voila, no leaky internally at airbox, or dripping from carb.
 

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Well that's good to know that it will leak externally asthat gives you a visual indication. I'm surprised by that though. Maybe some seepage but I would thinkit would not drip fuel.

My vote is still for too much fuel.
 

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Dejavu,

I have almost identical symptoms. I have been scratching my head for a couple of days trying to delay pulling the carbs out one more time. I think I also have some

I have been working through a near total overhual of my Mother's 84 GL1200. She lover her Wings (three of them) and in her honor I have taken to a restoration of her last bike.

Anyway this summer has been dedicated to overhauling the heads and valves and a quick second time through of the carb. (Maybe a bad choice). i just got it back together last week and got it to start but it only runs with the choke wide open (which is a bypass valve to enrich the fuel). As soon asI touch the throttle or slack off the chock the RPM's die off and it stalls.

Just foundthis MOST EXCELLENT website. Eons of experience that a novice like myself can chew on for days. I will be listening in for some pointers and spending many days ahead reading the archives.

Can't wait to get the Wing back on the road and catch up on the joy my mother enjoyed for so many years before her passing.

Ken

:cool::cool:
 

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Thsmitpet wrote:
I have a 1976 GL1000 with the same problem, I have been trying for three years to fix it without success. I have tried everything possible to rectify the problem, and have now resigned myself to the fact that the Honda Goldwing is little more than a pile of poorly constructed, third rate shite not fit to urinate on when on fire. I am trying to sell it, but again with no luck, it would seem that mostpeople must be wise to these awfull motorcycles.

it might be worth attaching a heavy duty chain to it, tying it to a ship, and throwing it into the harbour where it would at least do some good. then go a buy yourselfa kawasaki which is a farbetter quality bike and will give you no problems. bail out now it aint worth the fixing.

As for those of who can fix them we do;those who can'tbuy Kawasaki's:cooldevil:
 

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I finally found the problem with my 83 gl 1100 carb problem. After 2 overhauls. new needles and seats, air cut off valves and being installed 4 or 5 times and synched.
In my haste to get the thing running ,I installed the vaccuum slide springs on the bottom side of the slides instead of on the top:stumped:.I Put them inthe right position and it runs great!!! Needless to say I am not a motorcycle mechanic.
Some of the related problems others are having with their carbs could be in the same area .
Don't let frustration get the better of you. My problem has being going on all summer.

Lugnut
 

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Well that would make it run rich. Slides would be full open all the time.

On my first go with my GL1000 I put the air bleeds in backwards.I hate in when stuff like that happens but we'll never make that mistake again so it's a good thing all in all.:)
 

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Silicon Sam wrote:
Now you know why I couldn't wait to go to a single carb. I only had my set off about 3 times, and that was enough for me.

Raymond
Quit teasing them, they don't make the "single carb manifolds" anymore !!!:baffled:
 

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smitpet wrote:
I have a 1976 GL1000 with the same problem, I have been trying for three years to fix it without success. I have tried everything possible to rectify the problem, and have now resigned myself to the fact that the Honda Goldwing is little more than a pile of poorly constructed, third rate shite not fit to urinate on when on fire. I am trying to sell it, but again with no luck, it would seem that mostpeople must be wise to these awfull motorcycles.

it might be worth attaching a heavy duty chain to it, tying it to a ship, and throwing it into the harbour where it would at least do some good. then go a buy yourselfa kawasaki which is a farbetter quality bike and will give you no problems. bail out now it aint worth the fixing.
Sorry for your problems Smitpet!!!

But there's several million happy miles combined by us on the forum!

I have 76,000 and have only put in a Starter and gas in those miles!

Actually i lied, it had some miles on it when i bought it, but my friend had never done anything to it either!

Don't know about the other models but the 1100's are one of the most reliable bikes ever built!:clapper:
 

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b.pete wrote:
Well that would make it run rich. Slides would be full open all the time.
Not quite, the needles would be open to the max but the airflow at low rpms would be very low since the slides wouldn't restrict the carburetor throatto increase the air velocityso there would be less vacuum in the throatpreventing much fuel being drawn from the needle valves.
 
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