Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a 78 GL1000 a few weeks ago. The bike had been sitting for a full year and the previous owner did not drain the tank or carbs. I brought it home, drained the tank, put in fresh gas with some Stabil and it fired right up and ran fine. I've ridden it a few times around town and it's been great. Today, I stopped at the store and when I came back out, the bike started right up but was running rough. The header pipes were hot from already running so I couldn't use that to determine which cylinders had dropped. It felt very sluggish for another mile or two and then it straightened out and ran fine. The bike has 36,000 miles on it. It is incredibly clean but I do think it needs some tlc to get it right. A friend suggested the issue today was dirty carbs and, while they might need to be cleaned, I kind of wonder if this is maybe an ignition issue. I am planning on cleaning and setting the points and checking the timing but what do you all suggest I do next? What should I do when the issue presents itself again so I can try to narrow this down? Thank you.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,568 Posts
Get 2-3 cans of Seafoam, while Stabil is wonderful for its task of keeping fuel fresh over winter, its not made for heavy duty cleaning
Add 2 oz Seafoam per gal of fuel in tank and ride, over 30-45 minutes at a time make it work its best.

Also ck air filter and its box- any air tubes to filter--- for birds or mice nest, a common problem during storage

A new fuel filter never hurt, the glue holding it together inside can fail and mess with fuel flow rate.

That and some new NGK spark plugs (the $2 ones are fine) should cure most running ills from storage

Is the battery in good condition- able to accept a charge? Have it fully charged and load tested at parts store, or batteries+bulbs store.

And Welcome to the forum!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,568 Posts
go to the FUN section and post a few more replies to threads there, once you have 15 post you can use all the PM and other features
Then contact one of our old bike gurus- you can find the 1000 riders based on profile info
Try member CWN (California Wing Nut) He has several older models/engine sizes in his garage. Might even have a needed spare part or two!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,149 Posts
Did you turn the petcock off while you were stopped?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,328 Posts
CHANGE THE TIMING BELTS..!!!!! Running sea foam for a few tanks of gas may clear up your problem if the carbs aren't too bad.. Things to do..check/set valves, new fuel filter, new air filter, clean/ lube the throttle cables, check/set timing, put some sea foam in the oil run her easy for 100 miles change the oil and filter after while it's hot, Drain the gas tank and look inside..rust?? clean and seal the tank???, yes clean/rebuild the carbs??

for the total list look here..not that you "need" all but a good list to review.

http://www.randakksblog.com/starting-a-gl1000-after-a-long-lay-up/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Mahalo Tom! I will start adding Seafoam and try to get it out every day for a bit of a ride and see if it will flush things out.

Will also check the air box and associated tubes for debris.

Previous owner installed a new filter about a week before I bought it and new plugs will be going in.

Battery seems to be fine. It was at 13 volts when I brought the bike home. I realize that a full charge does not speak to its load capacity though so maybe I should pull it and have the store check that out.

Thank you for all your help. I will report back with progress.

Get 2-3 cans of Seafoam, while Stabil is wonderful for its task of keeping fuel fresh over winter, its not made for heavy duty cleaning
Add 2 oz Seafoam per gal of fuel in tank and ride, over 30-45 minutes at a time make it work its best.

Also ck air filter and its box- any air tubes to filter--- for birds or mice nest, a common problem during storage

A new fuel filter never hurt, the glue holding it together inside can fail and mess with fuel flow rate.

That and some new NGK spark plugs (the $2 ones are fine) should cure most running ills from storage

Is the battery in good condition- able to accept a charge? Have it fully charged and load tested at parts store, or batteries+bulbs store.

And Welcome to the forum!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Initially, I was not planning on keeping this bike because I already have a 76 CB550 project that I'd like to finish up but I got such a great deal on it and it is so clean that now I'm not sure. I've got it listed for sale on Craigs and I've been parking it in town with a sign on it but I think it's the wrong time of year to be selling. Unfortunately, the belts have not been changed so this is something that I will be doing as it looks like I'll hang on to it over the long winter and make sure it's in good shape and chew on what to do with it in the meantime.

Throttle cables and tube need to be lubed real badly. I did drain the tank and, although there was some sediment in the bottom, the inside of the tank was in very nice shape. The carbs on this bike look drastically different than the ones on my 550. Silly question...I live at 9,000 feet and it's been challenging to get my 550 tuned for the altitude up here but swapping out jets is easy. The tuning aspect is honestly one of the reasons I don't really want to keep this bike. I always said my next bike will be EFI. The carbs look to be a nightmare to get on/off. How in the world do you all tune for jets on these things? Do you really pull the carbs off each time to make an adjustment?

CHANGE THE TIMING BELTS..!!!!! Running sea foam for a few tanks of gas may clear up your problem if the carbs aren't too bad.. Things to do..check/set valves, new fuel filter, new air filter, clean/ lube the throttle cables, check/set timing, put some sea foam in the oil run her easy for 100 miles change the oil and filter after while it's hot, Drain the gas tank and look inside..rust?? clean and seal the tank???, yes clean/rebuild the carbs??

for the total list look here..not that you "need" all but a good list to review.

http://www.randakksblog.com/starting-a-gl1000-after-a-long-lay-up/
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,149 Posts
The carbs look to be a nightmare to get on/off. How in the world do you all tune for jets on these things? Do you really pull the carbs off each time to make an adjustment?
They are really not that bad to get out. Not many on here live at high altitude so answers to the carb jetting question might be thin.
 

·
Administrator
1987 GL1200 Interstate
Joined
·
22,576 Posts
Don't the 1000s have mixture screws like the 1200s? If so, there should be suggested settings from Honda. And the carbs wouldn't need to come out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Update:

I had a little time to tinker with the bike tonight. The air filter is a brand new K and N model and there isn't even a spec of dirt inside the air box. It is amazingly clean. Looking down into where you can see the screens towards the carbs...it looks brand new. I went to pull the points cover off to adjust the points and...the thing has a Dyna ignition. I'm not sure how to check timing with that so I'll need to research (if someone knows of a source I would appreciate it). The bike had a throttle lock on it when I bought it and that's what was causing the throttle to bind up. I have a front brake switch on the way. Coils look to be the stock ones as are the wires (will get new plugs sometime this week). I added Seafoam to the tank and it started right up and ran on all four. I did take it for a spin around the neighborhood and, right away, it felt like it dropped two cylinders. Lasted a few minutes and then all four were working again. Didn't happen again for the rest of the 20 minute ride. I don't want to run it much until I can get the belts replaced but I do wonder if there's just some shmutz in the carbs that's causing the running issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
New timing belts should be here any day. I see that I have to remove the water pump cap for this job. Can anyone tell me if the o-ring under that cap is still available at the dealer? Thank you.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
73 Posts
You didnt ask but .... since you have the DYNA

if the coils are the 40 yr old stock ones, you can get a set from a GL1500 and "supposedly" (its worked on mine so far) you can remove the resistor since they are 3ohm coils. These coils also allow you replace the 40 year old wires with new ones because the wires are replaceable.

Whole thing, 3 used coils and new wires was about fiddy bux. (you get a spare coil too...:surprise:)

so far so good with mine and it made a HUGE difference.

bet if you give it a chance you'll end up riding a :1000darkblue: for a while.........JUST SAYIN :banana:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Timing belts are here and I found the o-ring at the dealer so I might start the job tomorrow depending on the honey do list.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Silly question. I know I have to remove the water pump cap and bring the radiator forward a bit to gain access to the timing belts. When I go to refill the cooling system can I just fill with 50/50 at the rad cap and continue to top it off as air is expelled from the system as it warms up? Or...does removing the cap only let a small amount of coolant out so refilling isn't that big of a deal? Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
New belts are installed and the cooling system is refilled. I adjusted the timing and the thing seems to run pretty well. Took it out for about 40 minutes and it never dropped any cylinders. Still a little moody on cold starts but I think that's a carb tuning issue that I have battled with my 550 up here at 9,000'.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top