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rust in gas tank

1002 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Whiskerfish
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hi my gas tank is pretty rusty is there a way or a product that i can use to rid the tank of

rust.?
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I have had good luck with POR 15. Just make sure you follow the directions. They make a motorcycle tank kit. http://www.por15.com/
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DIY kits are available but have a high failure rate unless the prep work is done perfectly. Myself I take mine to a Radiator shop and let them do it. That is about the only thing on the old bikes I will not do myself. It is such a PITA to do and if it fails it will screw up a set of perfect carbs in a heartbeat so I spend some money on it. I have heard of guys getting it done for 60 on up but my guy charges 150 and he guarantee's it for my lifetime.
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Check this out. http://www.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html You can go to Lowes Home Depot ect. and get Sodium Bicarbonate "soda ash" it is used for ph balance, in pools. IT WORKS. It just takes time.
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http://www.rusteco.com/auto.htm

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html

If you want to remover the tank, you'll have to remove the back wheel and differential ,bags and god only knows what else. As I'm told, Honda built the bike around the tank. So if you want to remove it, start peeling like a banana:cheeky1:.

Or do it in the frame with the evaporust. Let us know how you decide to do it. I need to clean mine too.
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I'm in the same boat and looking for the easier softer way to deal with a rusty tank.

I like the look of the evaporust oldtoys1961 posted, but don't cherish the idea of shelling out the $90 for the 5 gallons of this stuff that would be required to fill the tank with it in the bike.

I've been watching e-bay and looking for a clean replacement so that, if it comes down to it and I have to pull the tank, rather than messing around for a few days trying to get it all cleaned out and perhaps coated, I can just get right to work putting the new tank in as soon as the old one is out. (Great, so now maybe we'll be bidding on the sasme tank and driving the price up, eh? lol)

I'm hoping to put this tank refresh off until winter time, so maybe something more attractive in the way of a solution will come along before then. Perhaps using an electrolytic process, though I don't know how effectively one would be able to remove all the moisture after the process, and how much residual setiment might be left behind in the tank.

I look forward to following this thread and hope both gumby and I find the painless solution that takes less than a single afternoon and costs less than $5.00. :D Seriously though, I'd be interested to hear how to avoid clogging the screen if we use something like POR-15, as well as any info about alternatives to pulling the tank.

Thanks for atarting the thread gumby! I hope we both find a better way!

Johnny
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hi there. some say soda ash will remove rust [same as pool cleaner] dunno nrver used

the stuff if you do let me know.

thx gumby
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I pulled my tank, used the electronic / soda ash method and pulled many rust "condoms" out of the tank after replacing the bolt and solution 4 times over a 4 day period.

When I was satisfied, I then used POR-15, so I wouldn't have to go back to this again (ever).

Here are two "After" pics:





Follow the directions to the letter. I used a heat gun to make sure everything was dry, then waited one day (in the SoCal 100 degree dry heat) before attempting to coat it (final step). I also used a compressor to ensure that the inside of the tubes were dry. The coating material is really thick, so I had to "roll" it around the tank many times with the large level sensor hole open, in order to see and get the tubes and other irregular surfaces to coat. Once I got everything that I can see, I spent another 30 minutes to slowly roll it around some more with the openings closed. Once I was satisfied, I poured the stuff out, and used my handy dandy compressor to clear the tubes (via the petcock holes). Then, using a long air nozzle attachment, I sprayed the screens to get them nice and clear before letting it sit to dry.

Then, just to make sure, about every 30 minutes or so, I'd shoot compressed air throught the tubes via the petcock holes to ensure I'm not plugging anything up.

I let it dry for a whole week before I reinstalled the tank. Then waited another week (to do other work, like the water pump, etc), before I put gas in it.

So far, so good.

Good luck.

Tony
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tk1971 wrote:
Follow the directions to the letter. So far, so good.

Good luck.

Tony
That is the hitch right there. So many guys think they can do this quicker or take shortcuts and this job will bite you if you try to do that. I am one that does not have good patience for something like this so I hire it out.



For the guys that were talking abput replacement tanks http://www.cyclepsycho.com//sells cleaned out tanks. They do not seal them but there are clean inside. Not sure how much they are getting for them right now. Great guys to deal with and I highly recommend them for a used GL parts source.
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