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After taking my bike to the shop to get the carbs cleaned/rebuilt, it turns out i have rust/sediment in my fuel tank. I'm replacing my carbs anyway with a set of refurbed ones (worn/broken parts). But am i just throwing good money after bad by not taking care of the fuel line contamination, either by replacing or re-lining my tank?Some say the fuel filter will only stop big chunks, not fine sediment. I really don't want to pull the tank if i don't have to.
 

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If your tanks not too bad, take it to a radiator shop. They'll steam blast it, & get all thesediment out. If the inside of your tank is flaking off, I'd get another tank!
 

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If you have the tank blasted or otherwise chemical cleaned, a product like Naval Jelly will help by converting the red loose rust to a black looking oxide coating that resists further rusting. At least that's what they claim, it worked pretty good on a step bumper on my truck.
 

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If you do clean the tank you have to be carefull, because theres two screens in the bottom of it, and I don't think you can recoat it because it will plug up the screens, I'd try to find one on ebay, I got one for my 77 gl1000 for 99 cents and 12 bucks shipping,



Good luck
 

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Gearhead76 wrote:
If you do clean the tank you have to be carefull, because theres two screens in the bottom of it, and I don't think you can recoat it because it will plug up the screens, I'd try to find one on ebay, I got one for my 77 gl1000 for 99 cents and 12 bucks shipping,



Good luck
Gearhead is right about the screens, but if you can find a coating that's thin enough (low enough viscosity) to not plug the screens, then I'd do it. No telling how bad a tank is from ebay... you could end up with one that's worse.
 

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According to a guy who has another tank for sale, there is only "varnish" on the inside of his tank, with the only rust on the "fasteners + connectors" inside. I haven't inspected mine, but the shop told me it had stuff encrusted all throughout. The guy wants $50 for his tank, which sounds in better condition. I hesitate to get mine re-done, because of bottom pick-up screens getting blocked.Can't i get away with using fuel filters more often?
 

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mag wrote:
According to a guy who has another tank for sale, there is only "varnish" on the inside of his tank, with the only rust on the "fasteners + connectors" inside. I haven't inspected mine, but the shop told me it had stuff encrusted all throughout. The guy wants $50 for his tank, which sounds in better condition. I hesitate to get mine re-done, because of bottom pick-up screens getting blocked.Can't i get away with using fuel filters more often?
Yes, you could change the fuel filters more often (and I'd make every effort toNOTuse reserve sincethe reservepickup is lower in the tank).

There's a drain plug in the bottom right side of the tank. If I were you, I'd try to drain and flush as much rust residue as possible by opening the drain and flushing with fresh gas. Or better yet, with some rust remover.

The tank is really not that hard to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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Thanks, everyone. I realize now the tank isn't that hard to remove upon closer look at the bike and manual. However, if the tank can't be re-lined without possibly jamming up pickup screens, and a replacement tank might have the same rust issue, i might be better off just flushing it as best i can, and as Marco says, NOT using reserve. I think that's what got me into trouble initially (in fact, i ran the tank RIGHT out of reserve once --oops, i know better).
 

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Hi Mag

I know what you are going though, I have a 1981 Goldwing Interstate 1100 with 13000 miles in her, it was a hand me down from my dad :DHe had kept it up pretty good, ran like a champ for him,but I did the same thing, :shock:ran till I was on the reserve, then it all happen, It pulled (the fuel pump)a lot of unknown rust though the filter (packed it so full it riped it ) the stock little one in my case and filled the lines and carbs and bowl and seats with rust, needed a complete carb rebuild (times four:? ) That set me back about $595.00 and still have rust in my tank so I opt to install another fuel filter in line with the production one, right out of the tank I put a Fram filter # G-2 a lot bigger and more see though, then the stock one and I can see it when it gets full of rust and thenI canreplaced it before the damage starts. I plan on removing the tank and cleaning it but I was missing out on some good riding time/weather,

Gearhead is right you can get good deals on E-Bay but be careful, I got a tank for mine, the guy said it had a little rust in the neck other than that it was good? Well it did have rust in the neck just like he said, but when I dried it out ( Removed all the old gas ) I got about 1/3 cup of rust out of it and still more to come. I would have to say it is in worst shape them mine is. And the out side is not as nice as mine is looks wise.

Have a safe day

Baja65/Fred
 

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Thanks, Fred. I'm in the same boat, re: riding vs. strip-down. I might make the same solution of adding a fuel filter, or just putting a bigger one in place of the stock one. I think another tank is a waste of time too, unless i inspect it first. I think i'll try flushing the tank out with rust remover, fresh gas, and filter it through some white cloth to see how it looks. Then i can pull the tank at the end of the season.Cheers, Mike
 

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If you want to ride it this summer I'd keep an eye on that fuel filter, put the extra one inline were you can see it, You should be alright, then rip her out this winter and do it right, I got lucky with my tank from ebay, It had a little surface rust on the inside, I put some rust remover in it shook it around and drained it, Cleaned it out by shaking around some fresh gas in it, until it came out clean,

If you can get away with it until winter ride on
 

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Just discovered a product called "Evapo-Rust" which is 100% non-toxic and apparently works wonders, simply rinsing parts after soaking.I'm wondering if i could simply drain my tank, fill it with this stuff, let it sit, and then flush it out and refill with gas? I could also just fill the tank 1/3 with it, and spray the rest to save a lot of cash too.
 

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Give it a shot! You could fill the tank 1/3 full and rotate it through several different positions every couple hours. Worth a try, if you do it let us know as this topic comes up fairly often.
 

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Ha ha! I'm avoiding pulling the tank../forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldevil.gif although, i imagine that in order to get a funnel under the drain hole i'm going to have to remove the rear brake master/level anyway? Guess i'm being lazy.../forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/baffled.gif
 

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have only taking a tank out of a 1200, but if I remember, i pulled it out the back end... sort of reminds me of a joke about a gynecologist who took and engine rebuilding course....
 

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my 77 wasn't to bad to remove the tank, You have to remove the seat, rear tire, inner and outer rear fender, final drive, pepcock, and battery box, Then It kinda slides out the back,

Good luck
 

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Gearhead76 wrote:
my 77 wasn't to bad to remove the tank, You have to remove the seat, rear tire, inner and outer rear fender, final drive, pepcock, and battery box, Then It kinda slides out the back,

Good luck
You really don't need to remove the final drive.
 

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Do you have to even remove the rear wheel? Clymer says just the rear fender to get the tank out. Can you get the fender(s)/tank out without removing the wheel? /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/baffled.gif
 

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getting the tank out is sort of like delivering a baby out the back end (sorry but best image I could think of)... yes you have to take off the rear wheel as it comes out where the wheel is. the bulgy part of the tank where the left side cover is, is the a bit of a squeeze both coming out and going back in. I cannot remember if I took off the swing arm and final drive when I did mine, but I think not, at least not the swing arm
 
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