[axelwik]

imported post

Gearhead76 wrote:

If you do clean the tank you have to be carefull, because theres two screens in the bottom of it, and I don't think you can recoat it because it will plug up the screens, I'd try to find one on ebay, I got one for my 77 gl1000 for 99 cents and 12 bucks shipping,



Good luck

Gearhead is right about the screens, but if you can find a coating that's thin enough (low enough viscosity) to not plug the screens, then I'd do it. No telling how bad a tank is from ebay... you could end up with one that's worse.

 

[axelwik]

imported post

mag wrote:

According to a guy who has another tank for sale, there is only "varnish" on the inside of his tank, with the only rust on the "fasteners + connectors" inside. I haven't inspected mine, but the shop told me it had stuff encrusted all throughout. The guy wants $50 for his tank, which sounds in better condition. I hesitate to get mine re-done, because of bottom pick-up screens getting blocked.Can't i get away with using fuel filters more often?

Yes, you could change the fuel filters more often (and I'd make every effort toNOTuse reserve sincethe reservepickup is lower in the tank).

There's a drain plug in the bottom right side of the tank. If I were you, I'd try to drain and flush as much rust residue as possible by opening the drain and flushing with fresh gas. Or better yet, with some rust remover.

The tank is really not that hard to remove.

 

[axelwik]

imported post

Gearhead76 wrote:

my 77 wasn't to bad to remove the tank, You have to remove the seat, rear tire, inner and outer rear fender, final drive, pepcock, and battery box, Then It kinda slides out the back,

Good luck

You really don't need to remove the final drive.

 

[axelwik]

imported post

mag wrote:

Do you have to even remove the rear wheel? Clymer says just the rear fender to get the tank out. Can you get the fender(s)/tank out without removing the wheel?/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/baffled.gif

Okay... for a GL1000 - remove the rear wheel, rear brake master-cylinder and caliper (they can be removed as one unit without disconnecting the hose), remove the outer and inner fenders, unbolt and move the battery box out of the way, unbolt the fake tank (4 bolts at the bottom) and move it up enough to clear the fuel-filler neck, disconnect the tank sender (top of tank), remove the petcock, and remove the tank mounting bolt. Now the tank should be loose. And there is no need to remove the final drive.

Now it's just a matter of slowly wiggling the tank back and forth and pulling wires and hoses out of the way as the tank comes out the back.

 

[axelwik]

imported post

Gearhead76 wrote:

I couldn't get my swing arm low enough with the final drive on the bike, it's only three nuts, but maybe I didn't wiggle it just right. but hey you got everything else ripped apart whats 3 more nuts to ease the removal process.

Disconnect the shocks.

 

[axelwik]

imported post

mag wrote:

Would i be able to drain all of the gas, then rust remover, out of the tank through the drain hole, with the tank on the bike? i'm worried i don't mix rust remover in with fuel. I suppose i could use a siphon.

You could try that... but don't mix any of the rust remover with fuel. Usually, when using rust remover, water is used to remove the rust remover, then the tank has to be dried.

Here's the way I did it: After draining and removing the tank I poured in some rust remover and some media to help knock the rust off. I used pea gravel because that's what I had, others have used BB's. I let the tank sit for a few hours in the sun to let the rust remover go to work (chemical reactions work faster with heat), then shook and rotated the tank with the pea gravel. I did this a few times and the whole process took a few hours. to get rid of the pea gravel I removed the gas cap and the tank floatassembly and rinsed with liberal amounts of water while shaking the last of the pea gravel out. Then the tank sat out in the sun on a hot day with everything open to dry.