[mag]

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After taking my bike to the shop to get the carbs cleaned/rebuilt, it turns out i have rust/sediment in my fuel tank. I'm replacing my carbs anyway with a set of refurbed ones (worn/broken parts). But am i just throwing good money after bad by not taking care of the fuel line contamination, either by replacing or re-lining my tank?Some say the fuel filter will only stop big chunks, not fine sediment. I really don't want to pull the tank if i don't have to.

 

[mag]

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According to a guy who has another tank for sale, there is only "varnish" on the inside of his tank, with the only rust on the "fasteners + connectors" inside. I haven't inspected mine, but the shop told me it had stuff encrusted all throughout. The guy wants $50 for his tank, which sounds in better condition. I hesitate to get mine re-done, because of bottom pick-up screens getting blocked.Can't i get away with using fuel filters more often?

 

[mag]

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Thanks, everyone. I realize now the tank isn't that hard to remove upon closer look at the bike and manual. However, if the tank can't be re-lined without possibly jamming up pickup screens, and a replacement tank might have the same rust issue, i might be better off just flushing it as best i can, and as Marco says, NOT using reserve. I think that's what got me into trouble initially (in fact, i ran the tank RIGHT out of reserve once --oops, i know better).

 

[mag]

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Thanks, Fred. I'm in the same boat, re: riding vs. strip-down. I might make the same solution of adding a fuel filter, or just putting a bigger one in place of the stock one. I think another tank is a waste of time too, unless i inspect it first. I think i'll try flushing the tank out with rust remover, fresh gas, and filter it through some white cloth to see how it looks. Then i can pull the tank at the end of the season.Cheers, Mike

 

[mag]

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Just discovered a product called "Evapo-Rust" which is 100% non-toxic and apparently works wonders, simply rinsing parts after soaking.I'm wondering if i could simply drain my tank, fill it with this stuff, let it sit, and then flush it out and refill with gas? I could also just fill the tank 1/3 with it, and spray the rest to save a lot of cash too.

 

[mag]

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Ha ha! I'm avoiding pulling the tank../forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldevil.gif although, i imagine that in order to get a funnel under the drain hole i'm going to have to remove the rear brake master/level anyway? Guess i'm being lazy.../forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/baffled.gif

 

[mag]

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Do you have to even remove the rear wheel? Clymer says just the rear fender to get the tank out. Can you get the fender(s)/tank out without removing the wheel? /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/baffled.gif

 

[mag]

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Would i be able to drain all of the gas, then rust remover, out of the tank through the drain hole, with the tank on the bike? i'm worried i don't mix rust remover in with fuel. I suppose i could use a siphon.

 

[mag]

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Thanks guys. I bought a siphon as well, so i'll drain as much of the existing gas, then siphon, then rust remover, drain/siphon. This stuff recommends leaving a coating as rust prevention, so i'l probably only use gas to flush, not water at any stage, just to be safe.