[axelwik]

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mag wrote:

Do you have to even remove the rear wheel? Clymer says just the rear fender to get the tank out. Can you get the fender(s)/tank out without removing the wheel?/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/baffled.gif

Okay... for a GL1000 - remove the rear wheel, rear brake master-cylinder and caliper (they can be removed as one unit without disconnecting the hose), remove the outer and inner fenders, unbolt and move the battery box out of the way, unbolt the fake tank (4 bolts at the bottom) and move it up enough to clear the fuel-filler neck, disconnect the tank sender (top of tank), remove the petcock, and remove the tank mounting bolt. Now the tank should be loose. And there is no need to remove the final drive.

Now it's just a matter of slowly wiggling the tank back and forth and pulling wires and hoses out of the way as the tank comes out the back.

 

[Gearhead76]

imported post

I couldn't get my swing arm low enough with the final drive on the bike, it's only three nuts, but maybe I didn't wiggle it just right. but hey you got everything else ripped apart whats 3 more nuts to ease the removal process.

 

[axelwik]

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Gearhead76 wrote:

I couldn't get my swing arm low enough with the final drive on the bike, it's only three nuts, but maybe I didn't wiggle it just right. but hey you got everything else ripped apart whats 3 more nuts to ease the removal process.

Disconnect the shocks.

 

[mag]

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Would i be able to drain all of the gas, then rust remover, out of the tank through the drain hole, with the tank on the bike? i'm worried i don't mix rust remover in with fuel. I suppose i could use a siphon.

 

[axelwik]

imported post

mag wrote:

Would i be able to drain all of the gas, then rust remover, out of the tank through the drain hole, with the tank on the bike? i'm worried i don't mix rust remover in with fuel. I suppose i could use a siphon.

You could try that... but don't mix any of the rust remover with fuel. Usually, when using rust remover, water is used to remove the rust remover, then the tank has to be dried.

Here's the way I did it: After draining and removing the tank I poured in some rust remover and some media to help knock the rust off. I used pea gravel because that's what I had, others have used BB's. I let the tank sit for a few hours in the sun to let the rust remover go to work (chemical reactions work faster with heat), then shook and rotated the tank with the pea gravel. I did this a few times and the whole process took a few hours. to get rid of the pea gravel I removed the gas cap and the tank floatassembly and rinsed with liberal amounts of water while shaking the last of the pea gravel out. Then the tank sat out in the sun on a hot day with everything open to dry.

 

[exavid]

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If you use water to flush out the tank, it's not a bad idea to refill the tank and use a little gas line dryer or Heet. Rattle the bike around with a nearly full tank and a heavy dose of the stuff and then drain it out. Use it in your car where it will be diluted more than in your bike. Besides your car can usually tolerate more alcohol than your bike.

 

[mag]

imported post

Thanks guys. I bought a siphon as well, so i'll drain as much of the existing gas, then siphon, then rust remover, drain/siphon. This stuff recommends leaving a coating as rust prevention, so i'l probably only use gas to flush, not water at any stage, just to be safe.