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FWIW

Prompted by some gas tank rust post I have been experimenting with a few of the chemicals mentioned

The photo shows a rusty car part that has been partly submerged in vinegar (5% acetic acid) for about 48 hours. Then I blasted it with a pressure washer for a few seconds.


This is not necessarily the same as cleaning out a tank as the access is different but it gives an idea of the effectiveness of the varous chemicals
 

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Now try pool muractic acid 50/50 solution for two minutes, then 3, 4..
 

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RB wrote:
Now try pool muractic acid 50/50 solution for two minutes, then 3, 4..
As I get time I'll try different things. Right now I'm sticking withn the safer ones. You can put your hands in this stuff. I will try the Muriatic. I believe it's another name for hydrochloric.

I'm also watching how it affects the steel that's left. So far no problems there.
 

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The nice thing about acetic is the lack of chlorides. Muriatic (hydrochloric) will form chlorides in the reaction. Acetic may also, but it's kept to a minimum as there are no chlorides introduced.
An easy way to obtain hydrochloric is to puke up some bile on an empty stomach.
The other way is to take sulphuric acid and add salt.
Goldwing alchemy! Nice.
:action:
 

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Nope not safe for hands at least not mine..it burns a little if you get it on your hands. You can get it at most grocery stores, HD and all pool stores.
 

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QUESTION:If my GL1500 crashbar(with scattered rust spotting)were immersed in acetic, what damage would it do to the chrome? TTFN.....
 

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nomados wrote:
The nice thing about acetic is the lack of chlorides. Muriatic (hydrochloric) will form chlorides in the reaction. Acetic may also, but it's kept to a minimum as there are no chlorides introduced.
An easy way to obtain hydrochloric is to puke up some bile on an empty stomach.
The other way is to take sulphuric acid and add salt.
Goldwing alchemy! Nice.
:action:



Thanks but I'll pass on the up-chucking as a supply base.

The nice thing with the 5% acetic is it's safe enough to eat on fish and chips.

I've also tried the washing soda but it requires D.C. current and my rectifier circuit is cheap and dirty with a few electrical hazards. It also gives off explosive gas mixtures so I don't trust leaving it on when I'm not there with the door open.

A local company does the dip and strip on car bodies and if I was restoring an old car I would just let them do it. If I was restoring a few bits of hardware I'd prefer to do it myself.

What I am looking at right now is the removal of the rust in the pits of the metal so the remaining metal is 100% pure. I'm not sure if I am achieving that. I am also concerned with rusty debris in crevices of welded parts. Painting over garbageends up as a garbage paint job.
 

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papasmurf wrote:
QUESTION:If my GL1500 crashbar(with scattered rust spotting)were immersed in acetic, what damage would it do to the chrome? TTFN.....
I'm just experimenting now but if it was my bike I'd use a commercial rust remover followed by clear coat and or wax.
 

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I restore hardware all the time, and white vinagar heated, works great.jimsjinx
 

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muractic acid is not the same as hydrochloric acid. I can wash my hands in muratic. I done it many times when I worked in the plating company years ago. Muratic is great for eating rust, and cleaning concrete. hydrochloric acid will eat through anything, but again, I would not put Muratic Acid in my gas tank to clean it, but it probably would be safe for the time mentioned previosly. Do not get any type of acid on your clothes or bike, unless you use it with a small paintbrush to remove small cracks of rust, because it will also eat a layer of chrome off.

Nightrider1

nobbie wrote:
RB wrote:
Now try pool 50/50 solution for two minutes, then 3, 4..
As I get time I'll try different things. Right now I'm sticking withn the safer ones. You can put your hands in this stuff. I will try the Muriatic. I believe it's another name for hydrochloric.

I'm also watching how it affects the steel that's left. So far no problems there.
 

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papasmurf wrote:
QUESTION:If my GL1500 crashbar(with scattered rust spotting)were immersed in acetic, what damage would it do to the chrome? TTFN.....
It will take the rust off, but it will also take the top layer of chrome off also, and leave a yellowish stain, very ugly.

Nightrider1
 

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Nightrider1 wrote:
muractic acid is not the same as hydrochloric acid. I can wash my hands in muratic. I done it many times when I worked in the plating company years ago. Muratic is great for eating rust, and cleaning concrete. hydrochloric acid will eat through anything, but again, I would not put Muratic Acid in my gas tank to clean it, but it probably would be safe for the time mentioned previosly. Do not get any type of acid on your clothes or bike, unless you use it with a small paintbrush to remove small cracks of rust, because it will also eat a layer of chrome off.

Nightrider1

nobbie wrote:
RB wrote:
Now try pool 50/50 solution for two minutes, then 3, 4..
As I get time I'll try different things. Right now I'm sticking withn the safer ones. You can put your hands in this stuff. I will try the Muriatic. I believe it's another name for hydrochloric.

I'm also watching how it affects the steel that's left. So far no problems there.
I'd suggest not washing your hands with any acid unless you know the dilution. All acids will eat skin off in concentration, including acetic. Muriatic acid and hydrochloric acid are identical in all properties except name.
 

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Nightrider1 wrote:
muractic acid is not the same as hydrochloric acid. I can wash my hands in muratic. I done it many times when I worked in the plating company years ago. Muratic is great for eating rust, and cleaning concrete. hydrochloric acid will eat through anything, but again, I would not put Muratic Acid in my gas tank to clean it, but it probably would be safe for the time mentioned previosly. Do not get any type of acid on your clothes or bike, unless you use it with a small paintbrush to remove small cracks of rust, because it will also eat a layer of chrome off.

Nightrider1
I was a research scientist all my working life.

Muriatic acid = Hydrochloric acid. They both come in all strengths, so maybe the muriatic acid in which you were washing your hands had been considerably diluted.

Washing one's hands in it is not an advisable thing to do.
 

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The vinegar I was using was 5% solution. While I can handle it without any problem, any chemical can have long term effects such as chemical dermatitus etc.

Inhaling the stuff can pickle yor lungs as well.

Use appropriate personal protection equipment.
 

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The times that I've cleaned out gastanks with muriatic acid (great stuff to eat rust btw), a few drops have gottenpast the gloves and made it onto my forearms, lemme tell you: the sensation is that IT BURNS. A F#$%ING LOT. Even after immediately washing it off, the spots still sting afterwards for about 20 minutes.

Knowing that, I'd never consider intentionally exposing skin to it. And it stinks bad.

Call me crazy, but common sense tells me tonot expose skin to anything that has steaming fumescoming off it. And muriatic acid does when you open the container.

If you're going to use muriatic acid, use thick gloves, eye and nose protection. And DON'T breathe it in. Use it outdoors and dump it onto some gravel/or old piece of concrete that you don't care about because it will yellow it. And flush it with water afterwards and use an airhose to dry it quick, then WD-40 right after that to prevent flash-rusting.

A good trick to loosen scaly rust is to put about 20 1/4 inch nuts in with the muriatic acid and slosh them around to loosen the rust. And don't leave the acid in for longer than 15 minutes because it might eat up welds/seams. Good luck.
 

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Molasses. You can buy big jugs of it from farm supply stores. You'd be surprised how well it works. Also, you won't have as big of an issue with flash rusting after you drain and wash it.
 
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