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Hi everybody ,I have 2007GL1800 700KM great bike but saddelbags open indicator drives me nuts.I have to kick it closed.Dealership guy tels me it's OK!Hard to agree with this .Does anybody have usefull advice?How to adjust the sensor?

Merry Christmas !
 

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Click & Clack had the solution with their "Check Engine light fix", a 1/2"x1/2" black sticker you apply over the offensive light
 

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While I don't own or probly never will own an 1800, it seems to me as if your local Honda dealer doesn't have a clue on how to fix that problem....I would get on line with some other dealer or if there is another dealer close by, go visit them...Some one will know how to adjust that offending lid...On all of my former bikes I knew when the lid was open when someone passed me throwing my clothes at me....:cheeky1:

Sorry.....was too funny to pass up...

Claude....
 

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The two latchs on each saddlebag that go into the locks can bend slightly when you put too much pressure on them with an overladen saddlebag. Most wingers try to sqeeze a little too much into the panniers and have to give them a good push to close them. If the metal bracket is not entering the lock receiver dead centre it can give you an open indication light. I solved this on mine by closing the pannier or topbox until I could just about see into the latch with the aid of a small torch. I then simply gently bent the offending latch until it was dead centre of the latch mechanism. This happens quite a lot with the overfilled topbox so I bought and carry a set of spare lock brackets in case I snap one as they are very light and easily broken.
 

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There is really no adjustment on them. Like Little John says it is important to have the metal loop latches centered into the exact center of the claw latches in the upper part of the actual saddlebag. There is no real adjustment, on the metal loops or even if you take the plastic away from the upper claw latches, there is not any real adjustment. You can remove the loop latches and with a small hobby dremel, egg shape the mounting hole a bit and gain a bit of extra latch reach, but that just defeats the whole purpose of how they are designed.

The doors are made to seal against the expanded weather stripping and if you get them too loose then the seal will not seal and you get everything inside soaked in rain or when washing the bike. That is why slamming them does not work, it just traps air and works against you, close them gently.

It is normally also the left bag that seems to be the culprit and always the rear claw latch.

I find it quite easy to just close the saddlebags and then gently push on them with my knee to make sure they are latched , and that is that.

Or if you wish you can just unplug the pin connector in the harness under the rear fender, and no more trouble indicator blocking out the main meter panel. I used to know what color those wires are , have forgot, but if you wish can look it up.

It is best to just gently push on the lids with your knee, shut them gently, then just give them a slight push with your knee about two thirds of the way back, and it will close and lock every time.

Kit
 

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Which type of saddlebag do you perfer???

I've seen those on the 1800's and don't know if I like the style as much as the ones on my 1200. Just seem natural to have the lid on the top?
 

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We bought the purpose designed Goldwing bags right at the beginning. If you fill those reasonably full with no bumps then you won't have a problem with the panniers or the trunk.

We still find that the left rear sometimes needs a nudge, I do it with the flat of my hand, I daren't use my knees for anything I don't have to.

There is actually a small amount of adjustment on the catch. If you look inside the trunk there is a cover over the latch area held by a few screws. If you remove that you'll see a green end on the cable with two or three grooves where it can be attached. I recall we had to adjust ours because it was too hard to latch and unlatch.
 

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I like those that are currently on the 1800. If you pack for a long trip you can roll up a couple shirts, some pants, spare socks and what not, a jacket and whatever else you want and when you open the side bag you can see the stuff, do not have to unload the whole thing to find one item.

On the other side you can carry tools, rain gear, emergency compressor, first aid kit, all that kind of thing and same way, if you need something you do not have to unload the whole thing to find it.

The trunk could use improvement though, I would prefer it to open to one side, helmets and such laid on the passenger seat do interfere with the way it now opens.

Kit
 

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thak you very much for your coments guys, I will try my best maybe it will work
vitho
 

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Mine seemed to break in and are easier to get closed after some use. It was annoying for a while to pack them then have to get back off and reclose them before taking off. pressure with the palms of both hands right over the latches seems to work better than trying to slam them closed.
 

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lostinflorida wrote:
Which type of saddlebag do you perfer???
I've seen those on the 1800's and don't know if I like the style as much as the ones on my 1200. Just seem natural to have the lid on the top?
I've had both and prefer the side opening type like those on my 1500 which are much like the 1800. No lid to lose, you can lock all three with one lock, one lever to pull for each bag and that lever out of sight and easy to get to.
 

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We found that using both hands to firmly close the saddlebags works every time. If we forget and only use one hand, or slam them...no good!
 

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Definitely, same thing with the 1500, it takes a push with both hands on the forward and aft section of the lids to get them closed. One thing that surprised me was that my 1500's saddlebags stay dry inside in the heaviest rain. I thought they'd leak with that near vertical opening but they don't.
 

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On the subject of the loop catches on the top box can I give a word of warning. They can come loose or you may take them off to adjust or bend them. Honda in their wisdom have made the two screws that secure them a length where they are just a slight fraction from the outer skin of the topbox. If you give them a very slight turn too tight in an effort to secure them firmly you will end up with a nice little pimple head where the screw is virtually through the paintwork. The screw head doesn't come through the paint but leaves a noticable pinhead mark where the screw end is almost through.

I know this because I have done it and ended upspending £40 to geta little creative artwork done which perfectly concealed my stupid error. At the British Treffen I saw three 1800 bikes and one 1800 trike with the exact same mark where the owners had obviously made the same mistake.
 
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