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Saw this on E-bay and thought it could help a lot of people who are in suburban areas with stop lights that are activated by magnetic loop induction.




[url]http://tiny.cc/RedLightChanger[/url]


I hate being at a light that takes forever so I am sure others have the same problem. The description is kinda vague but I have seen them used and people who do say they work well............
 

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I've found that making calls to the State Highway Dept, County Roads, City Street Depts get results in changing the sensitivity for the induction loops. It's a cheap and easy fix for them - change the sensitivity of the loop module.

I was in charge of the traffic lights in our town and I would take a m/c (either my personal or one from my department) and check the various lights around town - especially if we received complaints from cyclists about the lights not changing.

Might take a call or three, but it can be done. That way it helps all cyclists.
 

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I have seen this a few times that the bikes wont trigger the lights in the states, in the UK we dont seem to have this problem, so it has to be a design fault, you should not really have to stick stuff on the bike to cure someone elses design fault.

Over here the councils tend to mess on with the traffic lights to deliberately block traffic, put bus lanes everywhere and make you go round the block a few times in a view to disuade vehicles. Then they go on about reducing emisions, go figure
 

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In SC, if the light doesn't change like its supposed to, a motorcycle can treat it like a stop sign and go through it after stopping.:action:
 

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If I encounter intersections that don't want to change, I just make a right turn, go down a short ways and then perform a U-turn.

I do this every morning going to work, but for a different reason. In Phoenix, they have installed a light rail system, split the street into 1/3rds. A single lane on the left, the light rail in the middle, and 3 lanes on the right. To make a left, you have to wait for a very convoluted sequence of lights that will give you a left turn arrow once every 7 minutes, and then only for 10 seconds. 3 cars can make it, the 4th car cannot.

So, I make a right turn and then an immediate u-turn. The next green thru light is in 2 or 3 minutes.

For normal intersections though, there are very strong magnets manufactured in almost any shape you can think of. Magnets 4 Less offers a very wide selection. I have bought from them before.

This bar magnet should be a lot better than the one advertised on eBay, and the handling fees from Magnets 4 Less are more reasonable.


I would think that regardless of what magnet you chose, if the "magnetic field" did not reach at least 12 inches away, that it would not have much effect on the sensor loops.

Would be kind of neat to get a bar magnet though and play with it just to see how close it needed to be to trigger one of those sensor loops. :cooldevil:
 

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Sounds like a scam to me.
 

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Kikker wrote:
Sounds like a scam to me.
Actually it is and it isn't.



I had trouble with lights in my Navy days on a 75 750-4.



So I picked up one of these light changers from my local Honda shop for my 85 GL1200. I should have heeded it when the salesman asked me to give him a report on them working or not.

It didn't seem to make much difference and the magnetic strength wasn't much when I atached it to the bike (note: it comes with a wire tie).



I sold the 1200 after I had gotten the 88 1500 and don't seem to have a light problem with this bigger wing.

Plus I do have the new SC state law where I can cross the intersection after 2 minutes if the light doesn't change and I cancross safely.
 

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There's only a couple light that I'vefailed to tripon the bike. Wife drives a lifted Jeep Wrangler that fails to trip more of 'em. Not much we can do there, without defeating the purpose of the extra suspension . . . . . :?
 

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I just put the side stand down if there is a delay, this is generally effective and doesnt cost anything.

We have the buried wire sensors, I just weave up to a stop if I am the only vehicle or appear to be. Gets more exposure to the sensors but you also need to have an idea of how they are emplaced. I think they are about 3ft wide to sense the frams under the vehicles so thats why I weave instead of pull up direct and stop.
 

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hank85713 wrote:
I just put the side stand down if there is a delay, this is generally effective and doesnt cost anything.

We have the buried wire sensors, I just weave up to a stop if I am the only vehicle or appear to be. Gets more exposure to the sensors but you also need to have an idea of how they are emplaced. I think they are about 3ft wide to sense the frams under the vehicles so thats why I weave instead of pull up direct and stop.
Depends on the intersection and the streetyou are on. If it is a main artery, the loops may be longer to provide for "head space", but usually the width is maintained at about 3 feet. This keeps vehicles from adjacent lanes from tripping the light in multiple lane streets. One of the new detectors is just a "puck" in the roadway - you've got togo over it dead on to make the trip. We started switching to the video camera system, if possible.

If nothing else, ask your local DOT where the "trips" may be in the roadway for the street you are having problems.
 

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SB in SC wrote:
In SC, if the light doesn't change like its supposed to, a motorcycle can treat it like a stop sign and go through it after stopping.:action:
Its like that here in UTAH as well.....JUST DONT GET CAUGHT!!!!
 

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I talked to the city here about that very thing. They told me to put the bike where you have the most metal (engine) over the loop, not to the side, not over the loop line, but centered. Ever sense I started doing that I have not had a problem with them. :action:
 

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I know the units work. Some buddies of mine have them but this ebay ad is a scam. They doint show a pic of the Item because they are selling something so unbelievebly simple that they dont want to give the secret away.
I got scammed once buying a chip for 15hp increase in my car. There was no chipo . I payed $18 USD for a 10 cent resistor i could have bought at the radio Tv shop and your supposed to stick it in one sensor.

SCAM SCAM. JC Whitney sells the green light triggers and I do believe in them but u wont have much use for that in a wing. Its good for small profile bikes but if the light isnt triiggered by that big flat four the green light trigger wont help.
 
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