[Tookie]

imported post

Bought the bike, not running, rusty tank, no cluch action -
took of the reservoir cover to find a crystalized gel, no liquid.
Cleaned it out very good, took the hose off at the master cylinder,
and it pumps good. But I can't see an easy way to get to the slave to
bleed it, easiest thing I see is to remove the mufflers and crossover.
I could pull the tank back out I guess, it's just sitting in there right
now, I haven't put the rear of the bike back together yet.
Someone tell me there is an easier way.

 

[Oregonwinger]

imported post

It's down there on the back of clutch cover. A little blurb that will fit in the palm of your hand. But, for the life of me, I can't remember if the bleeder is on the left or right side. I think it's on the left, at 9:00, pointing straight towards the left outside. It takes a 8mm socket if I remember right. I only had 3 of them !! :cheeky1: :cheeky1:

I think the best bet would be to remove it, and take that puppy apart to clean it out. It's gotta be ugly inside.. The 3 small bolts are also 8mm socket, and it's tight in there, but do-able. Be careful that you don't break the bolts. They have a habit of seizing to the clutch cover. Wiggle them ever so slightly in and out, till they break loose. You might want to break the banjo bolt loose, first. You just don't want to break any of those bolts. If that happens, it's a clutch cover removal (do-able in bike) and get the broken piece out. Machine shop job, possibly. Anti-seize them bolts going back together. Also, use some fine steel .wool, like 00, or 000 on the bore and piston. Then clean the fuzz out very thoroughly

It's close in there, but you shouldn't have to remove anything, except maybe a charcoal canistor. (If the bike even has that - 50 state) I never saw one of those on an injected 1200.

Then, there's the final bleeding part. Search on this site for "bleeding clutch" "bleeding 1200 clutch", or something similar.
Good luck

 

[Tookie]

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I can see it, just no real access to it

 

[fatwing chris]

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I've bled my 84 when I had it with long 3/8" extension and the 8 mm socket.I may have used a universal,but I don't think so.Seemed pretty easy to get at to me at the time.Never removed anything but the left hand side cover.

 

[wingnut]

imported post

I've bled a few of them. I used a 1/4" ratchet and two long extensions to get to the nipple, which I think took an 8mm socket.

 

[JimC]

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To do my 85 LTD I had to buy a short handled box end wrench. The short length allowed me to work it into the confined space. It took some time but I could not get a socket in there. HTH.

JimC in NC (USA)

 

[lostinflorida]

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My 85I had sat up and had no clutch at all. It took me forever to finally get it bled. I first took the slave cyl. off and cleaned it. You can get to the bleeder fitting, but you have to be a contortionist and work mostly by feel.

I bought a bleeder bottle from Discount Auto and it was a great help. Others have talked about using a pressure bleeder, but I couldn't find one the weekend I did mine. After finally getting it done, I just haven't needed one again. I stick with my $7.00 bottle.

 

[pauln]

imported post

Tookie,

It makes it a lot easier to get to the bleeder (and the slave itself) if you take out the black plastic crankcase "catch bottle" (don't know what the correct name is) on the left side. There is just one bolt that holds it in place (if I recall correctly).

 

[Oregonwinger]

imported post

Good call, Paul. I plumb forgot about that one. My forgetter is working better as time goes by!:cheeky1: That makes it much easier. I always used a 12" X 1/4" Snap-on wobbly type extension, and a 8 mm socket. That's the type extension with an almost tapered end to it. Like this shorty. I've purchased other brands, but the Snap-on is the only one that doesn't distort at the detent ball.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=19775&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[buddy0253]

imported post

just a note, its on the back of the engine/clutch cover. near the bottom. yes the bleeder is on the left, #8 socket works well with a long extension, however. its $20 to replace it, i would. not too bad of a job but try to get a good look at the cover because it may corroded. when you bleed the system, start at the resevoiur and crack the nut on the back side and bleed it there too. also check the brass bushing in the handle to see if its worn. i would do timing belts and water pump if its in that kind of shape. all easy thigs to do and not that much money. good luck

 

[Tookie]

imported post

pauln wrote:

Tookie,

It makes it a lot easier to get to the bleeder (and the slave itself) if you take out the black plastic crankcase "catch bottle" (don't know what the correct name is) on the left side. There is just one bolt that holds it in place (if I recall correctly).

I'm gonna look at this Friday or Saturday, I saw that, but wasn't sure.
I think I could get a socket on it if I use a swivel, but no way could I
get my mitey-vac hooked up and be able to operate the bleeder :X
Everything on this bike is hard to access :baffled:

 

[EDDIE W]

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there is a tube going to the top of that black bottle,there will be water in it aswell, tip the water out and put it back empty, every once in a while just take it off and empty it