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New here, new to the Wing community. So having donated a great deal of time to the seat removal, like removing the passenger hand holds, pulling covers, searching, I have not discovered the secret. Simple job I want to do, run a strap under the seat for snap connections on a sheep skin seat cover.



Bill
 

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Hi Bill. Welcome to the forum. Are you saying that after you removed the bolts and grab rails, the seat is still in place? If it is, you need to push hard against the butt rest and push hard towards the trunk. Then the concealed lip at the front of the saddle will come free and you can lift the saddle up from the front and away.
 

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Thanks, Ben. Tried the hell out of that and it did not come free. Guess I need to back and try again.
 

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By the way, I've been riding for about 40 years, this is my first Wing, I'm totally impressed. Didn't think I would be. Looking forward to some 'long' riding on this white beast. Maybe a little 'bling' here an there.
 

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Hi Bill, Welcome to a great forum. I was over to a shop where one fellow has a new 1800 and he changed seats as he is about 6' 4" and long legged. but I did notice that he seemed to lift the seat at the back first and then put the front down into whatever was there to lock it in. I know that my 1200 has sort of like a peice i guess for a better word tonge that goes under a u peice only it's upside down so the tonge slides under it. There doesn't seem to be that much difference how the two lock in. Hope this gives you a little better picture. :waving: :)
 

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Very cool to get this feed back. So when I get some day light tomorrow, I'll attack it once more using all the good information. Thanks Hawk.

bill:smiler:
 

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Having removed the four bolts holding the grab handles on, if you slip your hand down the back of the lower section of the passenger butt rest, and push the seat forward at the same time as lifting it will come up at the rear. Once clear of the "ears" of the upper passenger back rest, you should then be able to lift the seat rearward and off.

Hope you get the picture.

There is a tongue on the front underside of the seat that is slipped under a bracket area just behind the false tank. You will get no where trying to liff from the front end of the seat.

:waving::waving:
 

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Once you take out the 4 bolts that secure the passenger handrails to the seat, that is all the bolts you need take out.

Now with open palm smack the seat backwards, hard!! You have to move the seat back enough to clear the white nylon tab that holds the seat up under the front part of the shelter.

Be careful putting it back , you have to juggle it around to line up the bolts, keep at it till you have them where they will start easy and straight.

It is an aluminum frame and easy to strip. And just snug on the bolts. Not real tight, not real loose, just be careful they are easy to strip.

Kit
 

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Wow!! conflicting methods here, between Kit and me!!:shock:He smacks his back and I always slide mine forward and up at the rear, it would appear that either way works!!:baffled:
 

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I'm beginning to like this forum. Very cool comment at the bottom. I have a 2004, BMW RT 1150, thought I keep it for a while before I put it on the market, but having done a day ride on the Wing, no need for me to keep the RT. Understand, I love the RT, but the Wing seems to do it all.
 

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Which ever way you do it BikeBill, it is a bit of brute force and ignorance.

I know, both Kit and I think that Mother H might have had the decency to give us an easily hinged saddle fitting system so we could get under there easily.
 

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Silver Fox from UK, man I was thinking the same thing, even the freaking Honda Book could have given me a hint, but that's OK, I know what I need to do. I have to get clearance between the seat and the passenger back rest to free up the up front device.
 

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Well, one little tip regarding the saddle removal, now that you are finding that it doesn't come off to very easily, you might give some thought to anything else you might want to do, whilst you have it off. Things like running wires for future use to allow add on lights or anything, I ran some of that crush proof cable holder tubing from front to rear and down to the battery area and laid a series of draw wires in o allow me to feed wires without seat removal.

Ran power sorce from the battey to inside the fairing below the pocket and one to the rear trunk area, ready for additional items. It paid dividens, as I don't need to keep removing the seat as I add lights etc.

:action::action:
 

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Hey, dang good idea. I do need plug in for heated gear, just in case I make a trip to northern climes during cooler weather. Being in Florida, not much need for it here, but I have it, so I need plug ins.
 

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I was curious so I hunted up the manual and looked at it. It says to raise the seat up at the rear. :gunhead:

Do you think this is why mine is so uncomfortable? I have been installing it backwards all this time. :cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1: I knew something was not quite right, so now I know. :D Kit
 

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when I removed my seat I found that if i removed to retaining bolts for the backrest and moved it out of the way the seat came out easier. if you have a heated seat don't forget to uunplug the heater wiring. john
 

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You also while pulling the seat backwards and pulling upwards on the rear of the seat make sure the trunk is open. It gives you a little more working room.
 

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Gentleman, thanks one and all for the contribution. It put me on the right track to make this simple task happen. 5 mins, done. Remove passenger grabs, open trunk lid, provides room to maneuver, lift up the back section of the seat, and work the entire seat back. Walla, done.
 
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