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So my tank is full of rust from the extended storage it had. I have the seat, saddle bags,trunk,rear wheel, petcock, all associated wiring,both rear fender sections out, rear master cylinder loose and tank unbolted.



And for the life of me the best I can get is about an inch of rearward movement from the tank before the right side "bulge" jams on the frame.

What's the secret?:? If I hadn't read the procedure in the Clymer book I'd have guessed the bike was built around the tank! :gunhead:
 

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fuel shut off valve--
 

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oh--dont for get to take loose the fuel filter monting ---
 

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The easiest way to accomplish your mission is to not remove the tank.

Unless you have holes rusted clear through, spend $150 and save a ton of headaches.

http://www.rusteco.com

I can guarantee you this stuff works, works well, works right, and will banish rust from your tank on a nearly permanent basis.

What the shop mechanic told me when I was looking to do my tank 4 years ago was that in order to remove the tank, you start at the tank shell, and remove everything below and behind it because the tank is the very first thing put into the frame at the factory.

Mike
 

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think of delivering a baby.... you will wonder how in the world it got in there and even more amazed that you got it out
 

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William_86 wrote:
rear end arm
Ding-ding-ding! We have a winner! The arm connected to the caliper bracket was still too high.

I had everything else mentioned above removed. The birthing analogy was spot-on. It was like pulling a calf from a cow. And it all happened so fast that I hope it goes back in easier.

What was a problem was the wording in the serveice manual that said something to the effect of " move tank rearward and lift out" as though it would come up through the frame rails under the seat area.



Thanks everyone for the tips.!

Rich
 

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