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Today I had the '83 Aspencade out for its first real ride other than just up and down the block.Only had it up to 60mph max.Lots of information coming into the brain from this 25 year old bike that has not been ridden in ten years.

Overall it seems O.K.I'm not even sure what I mean by that.I'll say this much the entire bike seems loosey goosey.Shifts into second and third like its real "wet" in there.Not all the time but it did in the first part of the ride.Fourth and OD seem better.

I have some Marvel Miracle Oil in the crankcase and Seafoam in the tank.So when I got it out on the first straightaway I was leaving a whitefog of something behind me.Not too much and its gone now so maybe no problem there.

This bike did not come with a ton of bolts.Almost everything I have gotten into has either been taken apart like the mirrors...all the way down to the spring inside the base to the gas tank out.So I had to go over to the hardware store and see what I could piece together.Had to do something for the fairing and I still don't feel like its on quite right.I feel like I'm missing a bolt or two on that.Also had to get some nuts and bolts for the rear fender.Had none.

What is holding everyones saddlebags up? I have no bolts to hold the saddlebags on so I got some at the hardware store but I'm not just bolting them to the grabrail because it feels like the plastic of the saddlebag won't be able to take the vibration and it'll probably break.The saddlebag has two bolt holes in the bottom.What do they attach to?

I could get this over to the carwash sooner rather than later.Get all the little gritty sand out.

I need some seat bolts too.Right now I'm using the two the PO had in there but the seat slides about three inched forward and back again and never cranks down hard in place.

There is more but I'll be happy to just start here.
 

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have you changed the timing belts? if not, that would be the very first thing I would do on a bike that sat for along time

looks to me like you are missing these parts

 

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The PO did the timing belts.



I'm at least missing 13,14 and 9
 

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Hi Tom, also take the rear wheel off and grease the spline gear or you will need a new rear end. How about the tires? Are there any age cracks in them, and what is the Mfg date on them? When on 2 wheels you can't take chances.:)
 

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Yep had the final drive out and greased it.New tire on the rear and good one on the front too.
Its the "loose" feel I'm wondering about.
 

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Tom, I hope you changed all the fluids on the bike. Like clutch fluid, Brake fluid, Rad flush, Rear end fluid. After all this time sitting is not good. Just thinking. :)
 

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tomw wrote:
The PO did the timing belts.



I'm at least missing 13,14 and 9
I have 13 and 14... If you can use them, you can have them.. but you gotta pay the shipping...:waving:

should add that the ones I have are for an earlier year, probably '82.. only difference is that the ones I have, don't have the helmet locks..
 

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tomw,

"by greasing" the rear wheel spline, I hope you meant with Moly 60 Lithium grease or better.
 

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Your loosie goosie feel could be your front forks. Do you have a fork brace on there? Can't tell by the picture. Has the steering head and bearings been checked? Do you know if anyone has had the triple tree out? The reason I ask, is the fact you are missing so many bolts, it's hard to say whats not actually bolted together. I'd try to find another bike to compare it to and match up what your missing.
Later Rumple
 

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Well I did not know about moly60.Today its off to the dealer to see if they have it.
Checked out some info online about applying moly60 and found this:http://webpages.charter.net/bpeloquin/splinelube.jpg

Now I have to get all that moly EP I put in there out.The bulk will be easy but how can I clean it down to the bare metal? Denatured alcohol?Cuts through most things and dries real quick.
Whatdayathingk?
 

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Yes fork brace in place.Can't say the triple tree has been off how could I tell? I think the forks that came on the bike were from an Interstate.He gave me another set of forks and being the gentleman I am I never asked why.Well the second set were the correct forks.Shabby looking but I cleaned them up and rebuilt the seal and bushings with new ATF in there.So that is what is mounted now.
As for the steering head...what am I looking for?
And on the triple tree...hmmm...same question I guess.How would I know and what am I looking for?
 

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The triple tree/bearing can be bad or loose.you can tighten up the tree with the big nut right on top in the center. It's a matter of feel. Before you start try turning the bars side to side slowly feeling for a smooth movement there should be not rough stops or "hiccups" as you move the bars.

Then jack up the bike front wheel of the ground and try to move the wheel forward and back there should be no movement.
If there is bad bearings are likely..or at least loose..

You can try tightening it up or taking it all apart and checking the bearings, cleaning re greasing etc.
 

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ok guys i'm just asking here and not trying to be a wise guy but the black Honda manual does not mention the Honda Moly 60 I just went out and bought.
It says to use NLGI2 with MOS2 additive.
Now after reading about how the Japs want this stuff put on and seeing the recommendation to be like 5g here and 5g there it seems to me like that will not be enough grease.
I'm understand that I'm wrong but can you help me understand it? Is the moly 60 so good that I don't need to lay a whole lot in there?
I have the final drive out and the I'm about to clean it of all the grease that was in there.What can I use? How about spray brake cleaner? and a ton of paper towels?
I'm feeling a bit apprehensive guys...that $10 only bought about three ounces of moly60...is that going to be enough?
I'm looking at this recommendation to do the grease job:http://webpages.charter.net/bpeloquin/splinelube.jpg

I don't have the resources to make many errors so thats why I wanted to jump on cleaning this thing up.Get that old grease out and get the moly60 in but I need advice.Thanks

Whatdayathingk?
 

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A little bit goes a long way.. you are not trying to pack it with grease, but apply the moly to all of the contact surface. The moly disulfide (the main ingredient) is actually a solid.. kinda like graphite.. that attaches well to the metal surfaces so that when the filler (the petroleum) eventually is thrown out or toherwise dries out, there is still this layer of "moly" to lubricate the surfaces..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
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so i won't be using anywhere near the full three ounces in the tube? and cleaning with spray brake cleaner is alright?
what a mess i made...
 

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tomw wrote:
so i won't be using anywhere near the full three ounces in the tube? and cleaning with spray brake cleaner is alright?
what a mess i made...
three ounces is enough... probably an ounce is enough.. as for the brake cleaner, that is probably okay too, but my experience is thatsome types of"brake cleaner fluids" have solvents that cause rubber parts to swell.. thta is the potential bad news (if you got on any rubber)..the good news is thatthese solvents are also very volatile, so if you wait a day or two, the solvent evaporates and the parts go back to normal size (don't know what it does to the chemistry.. observed this while rebuilding the master cylinder)
 

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ok i'm going back in the garage now to continue fixing the mess
 

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Here are some pics.This is the drive shaft joint which I got pretty clean.Does it have to be surgical clean?
 

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Here is the pinion gear.Do I have to get it all cleaned out down there or just the spines themselves?And is it a disaster if I get cleaning fluid down there?
 

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