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Shimmy on the bars at low speed 2003 wing 1800

5K views 40 replies 23 participants last post by  Bike...and Dennis 
#1 ·
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I have a shimmy on the handle bars while deceleration on my wing only at a certain speed.I need to get the fork sealsreplaced on one side and while it's taken apart, I hear to stop the shimmy I should replace the steering head bearings with all steel ball bearings. Can some of you give me advice as to how you would proceed? Any help would be greatly appreciated.



Thank you



Blue Knight
 
#4 ·
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A wobble at 25-35mph especially while decelerating is very common among all models of the Goldwing, at least the faired ones from the GL1100 on. On my 1500 when I put on a new front tire the wobble goes away for around 4000-5000 miles and then it slowly comes back. The wobble doesn't occur at all if I have one hand or even a couple fingers on the end of one handlebar, mostly it's a hands off phenomena. Tires and the steering head bearing tension are the two main causes but by far the tires seem to be the main cause. I really doubt replacing the head bearings on your bike will cure the problem, be careful that an overzealous mechanic doesn't over tighten them to try to stop it. That will lead to a bike that tends to wander and will damage the bearings. Normally the head bearings will last for over 20 years in good condition. It would be better to have them check the front tire for balance, run out, and cupping. If you're having a wobble with your hands on the grips and at higher speeds then something else is at work and not the common 35mph wobble.
 
#7 ·
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BK

Withan 1800 the decell wobble you experience is totally normal. That doesn't mean it's right, just normal. As your tires wear, it gets worse. Some tires are more prone to wobble than others. (even individual tires of the same brand and type)



Part of the reason for the wobble is that Honda has chosen to use ball bearings the steering stem that are more suited to a mountain bike (read bicycle... Yup, bicycle..) that to an 800 lb plus touring bike. The front suspension being different side to side (cartridge in one side, damper rod in the other) probably doesn't help either.



You have at least 3 choices for solutions.

#1 If this just developed and your bike isn't one of the chronic wobblers, new tires will probably fix it for a while, until they start to wear and cup.

#2 All Ballsroller bearings for the steering stem usually solve the problem. They are a cheap fix at $45 for the set, but since the steering stem is buried pretty deeply, it's a several hour job to replace them. If you have your dealer do it, you are probably looking at $250 or so plus the bearings.

#3 There is a guy who makes a steering damper for a Goldwing. http://seeleyproducts.com/faqs/index.html



I went with the All Balls, plus I installed RaceTech Gold Valves and better springs at the same time. The wobble was much diminished, but still there until I got rid of the worn cupped and probably out of balance tires. It is gone now, and hasn't come back even as my tires wear. Also, the front is showing no signs of cupping.



Dave

GWBBA #9

rocketmoto.com
 
#9 ·
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After having the steering bearings torqued by the dealer, replacing the tires (twice) and installing a fork brace, I also replaced the steering head bearings with All Balls tapered bearings. 6000 miles later and no wobble. :)
 
#10 ·
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Something of note, as tires are mentioned several times so far here. And this is on a GL12 and in no way predicts performane on a different model, but...

I've never had the "wobble" with Bridgestone tires. I am currently riding on Pirellis and so far, at 11000 miles, no wobble.

Worst wobble ever was on Metzler tires, Dunlop Elite 2 came in second.
 
#12 ·
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Gentlemen,
Your input and advice is greatly appreciated. I had Avon tires when I purchased the bike and they became cupped real bad in no time. I changed to Metz and I still have the wobble at low speed while decelerating but not as bad as the Avons.
Thanks
 
#15 ·
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Welcome from the state of Pennsylvania!





 
#16 ·
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FitzAl wrote:
Tires is the main cause of wobbles on the 1800, followed by steering bearings. The All Balls replacement bearings are a popular fix if that is the problem.
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My experience exactaly with mine and several other GL1800's in our area! First causewas the tires. Easy to change and check. With 3 Wings, even with new E-III's front and rear.... the slow speed shake was still there. Pulled off the Dunlops and installed Bridgestones and the shake was gone, at least until the tires were near completly warn out! Another Wing........... the Stones did not seem tohelp the shake much. Interesting! Time for All Balls stem bearings for that one.
 
#17 ·
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corventure wrote:
FitzAl wrote:
Tires is the main cause of wobbles on the 1800, followed by steering bearings. The All Balls replacement bearings are a popular fix if that is the problem.
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I had my bearings changed to tapered bearings and had yet to change the tires for they were REALLY worn so bad that my handlebars vibrated. Once the new bearings were installed, by me,;) the vibration and shaking was almost down to nothing even with bad tires. About a weeks worth of riding, I still needed to re-torque the steering head nut. Finally, I got the tires replaced and, WOW. Smooth. No problems at all. I have Metzlers.
 
#19 ·
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I have an 03 and I have some wobble as well. I'm just not sure if I'm going to do a thing about it. My hands are on the bars 100% of the time and they act as a damper. I have thought about some upgrades. I suppose a person could put in all ball tapered bearings, try several different brands of tires, change out the suspension system, or simply buy a different brand of bike. I figure if a brand can't make an appropriate suspension and steering system, and I have to do some expensive aftermarket mods to make it work right, I can always change brands.

So I have the back and forth going in my head. Should I leave it as is, upgrade the front end, or just get a different bike?

As of yet, I have not made a decision for myself. Good luck with yours Blue. Let us know what you do and how it works for you.
 
#21 ·
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I had the same problem. Changed tires because they were shot. This time before installing the wheels, I added Dyna Beads to both tires for balance instead of traditional weights. Bike rides smooth as silk. We'll see after a few thousand miles. Both tires are Dunlap 3s.
 
#22 ·
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Keep one thing in mind about tapered bearings versus stock steering bearings. Vibration is vibration. Vibration is bad for anything. All you have on stock bearings is about 1/32 of an inch or so of contact of surface area. If they get loose and stay that way long enough, your steering head tube stem is going to wear out next.

That can also happen with tapered bearings as well but the point is not likely due to more surface contact area. The bearing itself may become damaged first meaning a cheaper fix.
 
#23 ·
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Update on the shimmy. Gentlmen. I had the fork seals replaced on both sides and while the master Honda mechanic had everything apart he said the head bearings were fine. They needed to be serviced and tightened up a bit. He did so and it appears to have reduced the shimmy while decel. He also mentioned the head bearings need to be inspected on the maintenance interval report and a lot of people don't have it done thus creating problems with cupping and shimmies. As far as the minor cupping, he told me to add 2 extra pounds in the front tire and this should help it. He told me to keep an eye on the tire and then reduce the pressure to manu specs after a while. He suggested to check the tire pressure at least once a week to maintain good wear. He also said nitrogen is a money grab. Your input is greatly appreciated. This guy has over 49 years in the BMW and Honda products.
Thanks,
Blue Knight
 
#24 ·
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Well,

my '08 GL1800 wobbled from day one. More so under certain circumstances, but it wobbled enough I first tought it was because all Wings do that, don't they ???

I had the tires changed at 16,000 km as I was leaving for a 9K km trip and I did not want to have a forced "tire break" alopng the way. Dealer suggested Elite III's. OK said I, having had great pleasure with EIII on my GL1500 before.

Again, wobbled from day 1, with low speed being really twitchy. And they were hard as hel... Felt like riding on steel wheels.

Once back from my trip, had the front changed. No E III in store, had an OEM original Dunlop installed.

Wobble, shimmy, uncomfortable.

Dealer re-balanced the wheels, checked and tightened steering bearing (at my expense !!! this is 3 hours job they say as I have the GPS model).

I was pis.. off with my GoldWing, looking for a deal to buy back my old GL1500 or my previous ST1100. So much so that I did not enjoy motorcycling as I used to.

One weekend, I switched my front wheel (and tire) with a friend's. Man OHHHHHH Man, no more wobble, no shimmy. Felt wayyyyyy more stable.

Went back to my dealer, with 3000 km on front tire and 15 000 km on rear. Had both changed for Bridgestones. Had them pay extra attention to balancing and all that.

Took bike out for a spin. No, and I mean NO wobble. No shimmy. Bike is so much more comfortable now - as if now that it is free from parasitic gyroscopic forces from the front wheel the front suspension can do it's job.

I can't believe how much better my bike rides and handles now. Don't I see anyone trying to trade my GL1800, it's mine now and it handles and behaves like it should have from when I got it, brand spanking new, 30K km back.

Thanks to those who insisted that Bridgestone are the way to go. Wobble IS tire related. Change'em !


Alain
 
#26 ·
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I have had a few sets of tires that had the decal wobble if I took my hands off the bars. In most cases I think he tires are the main problem. Some have found that changing the steering head bearings and increasing the torque will fix the problem.

I changed the stock steering head bearings on my 05 at 55,000 miles and they still looked like new. It may have helped the wobble, but I'm not sure. I seldom take my hands off the bars. I'm not sure I would have ever noticed the wobble if not for the internet.
 
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