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When you ordered from motovan. Did you have to get 2 kits one for each shock or does 1 kit do both sides thanks Rob
 

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i bought only 1 kit,came with the 4 springs in it......
and by the way the ride is a hell of a lot better...wifes not getting that sharp pain up her back when we hit a good bump.......worth the time to do and cheap
 

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:applause::applause:

I'm pre suming atf = automatic transmission fluid... any make... mercron, drexron,

I'm going to try an refill from the top... have an idea for a IV drip to make this happen... since this might take all day to do...

If this fails, THANKS Gambler, those step by step details look encouraging... will let you know...

 

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:claps::claps: Gambler, I wanted to thank you for the step by step on the shock rebuild.... my rebuild was successfull... the bike rides sooo much better now!!!!

My only problem was the re assembly of the components ( I forgot what went where and in what order )

So, KUDOS to you Gambler:thumbsup::applause:;):bow:

 

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looking for progressive kit to repair rear shocksstar cycle has them,bike bandit no longer carries them
 

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Anybody know where to get rubber bumpers for the top of the actuators? I can find all the other parts I need but have no clue where to get the bumpers.
 

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Call me a noob to working with metal, but how the heck can I bore a 2 1/8" hole into the metal floor flange?

Easy enough to do in wood, but metal work is something I don't do.

And thanks for the awesome instructions. Hopefully re-do my shock next weekend. :)
 

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Well, I am in the middle of my rear shock rebuild on my GL1100. Gambler's post has been a great help though the GL1100 is just a bit different.

The stock GL1100 and GL1200 shocks are Showa air-over shocks. The "shock" part of the rear assemble is "not" serviceable. It is a welded closed unit containing the piston, sleeve, compression and extension dampening valves. The GL1100 shock contains a rubber bumper stop on the shaft that cushions full compression. This is what causes a great deal of shock failures but can be remedied.


During my rebuild I found the rubber bump stop deteriorated. It appears not to be compatible with long exposure to oil. I also determined one of my shocks was not dampening on the compression stroke.

So... I wanted to investigate what actually failed and was surprised it wasn't wear of the internal components, it was the deterioration of the rubber bumper...

This is a picture of my shock, ground the cap off, and disassembled the components.
 

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So how do you fix this since you can't take the shock apart?

I had bought a couple shocks from one of our forum members and disassembled them to get a good shock. I took both shocks and submerged them in lacquer thinner over night, activating them while submerged to make sure the internal sleevewas full.

Lacquer thinner will quickly dissolve the remnants of the bumperfrom the internal components. After soaking, remove and activate the shock several times to drain out all the thinner. I let my sit for a while in the sun to "bake" out the rest of the thinner.

There are no internal components of the GL1100 shock that will be adversely effected by the lacquer thinner.

Important: Before submersing the shock in lacquer thinner, remove the eye bushings.

Be gentle when activating the shock with lacquer thinner since it is not a lubricant.

As for the bumper, I replaced it with http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.8104 and will not be effected by Automatic Transmission Fluid.

You can not assemble the shock without the bump stop. This keeps the piston from hitting the foot valve inside the shock. If it does bottom out, it could crack the valve and ruin the valve seat.
 

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One last comment,

Here is my shock compression tool. I used some all thread, and pieces of metal scrap I had around the garage. The board is cut from Adventech 3/4" flooring (not particle board) since I don't have a metal hole saw.
 

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WillyWilly,

Please keep up the updates on your rebuild... I am rebuilding another set of shocks fora 1200 now... I can always use another good idea....

I am using vinyl coated rubber disks used to repair large water valves for bumpers... the O.D. is the same but, I will drill the I.D. to the correct diameter and then rubber cement them together and make them "solid"...

I used the plans from Gamblers rebuild to construct my spring compressor... I had a machinist friend bore out the cast iron floor flange to allow the shock to fit through properly....

C Trooper

 

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I would be careful using vinyl and rubber cement... I'm not sure how that will react with ATF long term. "Any" particle in the ATF will end up in the valves and that will be an issue.

You may have already checked...
 

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Ya, for that price I could get a pair of 12 series progressives and ditch the whole air shock problem... Great find.



I like the sealed unit concept though. Wonder if it is gas charged? Almost have to be for oil control...
 

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So here how my rebuild went on a pair of GL1100 shocks.

As I mentioned above, I found the bumper stop inside the shock had deteriorated and gummed up the work inside the shock.

Here is a picture of the old bumper stop. If yours looks like this, you will have the same problem and need to clean your shocks. See above.
 

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So with everything clean, new seals, orings, progressive springs and bump stops, I'm ready for assembly.

Note: You can NOT assemble without the Bottoming Bump Stop. This is to prevent the shock piston from bottoming out in the shock. If it does it will hit the foot valve and possibly crack the valve seat. This will ruin the shock and it can not be repaired.


 

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