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Need to refill the oil in my shocks, whats the best way?
 

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Bob Cassel
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fronts or rears? If it's the rears, you are going to have to pull them off so you can unscrew the hoses from the top of the shock, through the hose hole using a syringe
 

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Its the front, they are bottoming out.....
 

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Bottoming may beweaksprings. Progressive springs can be had for 80 to 100 bux and can be changed in under an hour.



Changing fork oil is cheap and may fix your problem. To do it by the book:



- read the manual and follow those instructions.



if no manual:



- bleed off any air pressure in the forks

- remove the oil drain screws (bottom of fork lowers, on the outside, 10mm hex bolt)

- be ready to catch spurting oil

- pump forks to drain completely

- replace the drain bolt

- disconnect the air hose on the right fork cap

- disconnect the air hose on the left fork cap

- leave the air hose resting in place, no need to pull it outunless it needs replaced

- put bike on center stand to fully extend forks (front wheel off the ground)

- work on one fork tube at a time

- remove one fork cap (CAUTION! caps are under spring pressure! Keep face out of the way!)

- With cap off, pull the springs out. OEM springs have three pieces, a short spring on top, a long spring on bottom and a washer between the two.

- measure the springs with a tape measure.

- service limits:

Long spring - 17.4 in ('80-'82) 18.22 ('83)

Short Spring - 4.17 in (all 1100's)

- If springs are too short, time for renewal

- return srings to tube (don't forget the washer!)

- check that the drain bolt has been replaced

- add oil to top of tube - 7.4 oz ('80 - '81) or 9.1 oz ('82+)

- reinstall fork cap (practice new "golf words" here)

- repeat on other fork tube

- reattach air hose to the left cap

- reattach air hose to right cap.

- pressureize the forks and test 'em out



NOTE:

To replace the fork caps with minimal need for "golf words" get a peice of wood1x3x16 inches. Cut a 17mm notch in one end about 2 inches deep. Wrap the "handle" of the tool with a shop towel to prevent splinters. Use a couple tie wraps or hose clamps at the notch end to prevent splitting the wood.



Use the notch to grab the top of the fork cap and, applying body weight to the stick, cram the cap into place and engage the threads. Take care not to cross thread the cap!





If you have a mite-vac or similar vacuum pump, you can simply drain the oil from one fork, connect a tube to the drain,drop the other end of the tubeintoa measured amount of fork oil, draw a vacuum from the fork valve at he top of the righttubewith your mite-vac until all the new oil is drawn up into the fork. Replace the drain screw. Repeat on other tube.
 

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Bob Cassel
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Okay, if it's the front you need to pull the air hoses from the tops of the forks and put the oil in, but you won't know how much. Most likely, you need to pull the forks off and rebuild them. Not a bad job, will take you about 2 to 3 hours including pulling the necessary plastic, hoses, front wheel, fender, etc.
 

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i have a similar problem front end bottoms out i dont have air shock so what would be the process for fork inspection and oil replacement
 

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Great write up on changing fork oil......"Golf Words"????....Yeah I've learned a few new ones when I do get to work on my Wings....:ROFL:....
 

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redbaron wrote:
Great write up on changing fork oil......"Golf Words"????....Yeah I've learned a few new ones when I do get to work on my Wings....:ROFL:....
i just finished doing a 1100 yesterday I had to let my inner sailor out a couple of times. I use compressed air to force the old fluid out the drain.

steve
 

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Another method less work..for me anyway..

Remove air valve on the right fork top..drain oil from the forks. Now get some 1/4 tubing, 1/8" ?? I forget screw it into the drain port..get a big syringe..fill with appropriate amount of oil..force it into the fork..now reinstall the air valve..remove tube reinsert drain bolt..note re installing the air valve helps to keep the oil from running out while you are changing from tube to bolt..now remove the air valve and other drain bolt do the other side. All done. NO caps to replace..but you can't check your spring length but if your problem is solved then springs OK if not new springs needed.

Other things you can do..spray in some solvent to help clean out old oil..right just into the valve port left side you'll have to remove the air hose to get it into the fork.
 
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