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Any help for a novice mechanic on searching for a short in my brake light, turn signal, and horn system for a 1982 standard GL1100? I thought I'd ask before I started arbitrarily pulling off the headlight and doing things I probably shouldn't. I have just started visiting this sight. It's great to know I'm not alone with some of my Goldwing maintenance problems. You all are great and have helped me keep most of my hair on at least a couple of problems.

Anyway, my turn signals didn't seem to be working as I took off for my coffee ride a few days ago, so I thought I'd better stop and research the problem. Sure enough, I didn't have a brake light or horn either. I stopped at the local market and bought some 15 amp fuses and installed one. Everything worked fine till I started driving down the road. A few seconds later I lost everything again. I repeated this (reinstalling the fuse) and worked the brake looking for a short, then tried the turn signals, with no problem, and the horn worked. I started off again and they were all dead. Trying to replace the fuse from that point on the fuse blew instantly from that point on.

Any suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks
 

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I'm no expert, but I'd probably disconnect the horn first and see if the other item sstill work when you refit the fuse. If it blows again, disconnect the turn signal relay and try again.
Just one thing, if you ride the bike and do nothing (don't use the turn signals or the horn) does the fuse still blow when you hit the brakes? If so, the problem may be the brake lights.
 

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fokkersauras wrote:
Trying to replace the fuse from that point on the fuse blew instantly from that point on.
Any suggestions are much appreciated.
Thanks
The good news is now you have a hard short which should be easier to find. JDuggan is right, the way to go about it is to disconnect the horn, brake lights and what ever else is connected to that fuse then reconnect one at a time until the fuse blows again. That should show you the problem unless it's a short in the wiring harness. That will take a little more work, you'll have to trace the wires down from the fuse box. If you have a Clymers with the wiring diagrams it will be a lot easier.

:waving:
 

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The boys are right. I'd be thinking on the lines of the brake lights being the cause, specially if it only blows the fuse when you hit the brakes.
 

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Thankyou, I'm getting the voltmeter out this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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fokkersauras wrote:
Thankyou, I'm getting the voltmeter out this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the suggestions.
Ya gotta wait a bit sometimes when hitting thesend button otherwise you will have members accusing you of padding the post numbers.

:waving::15red::waving:
 

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:cheeky1:Its ok ,,the ever watchful Wexman is on the case ,,,,,:cheeky1:Ciaran
 

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Everybody, thanks for your help and suggestions. I removed the seat and tank (what do you call a fake tank? Fake tank) replace the 15 amp fuse. Everything worked great no matter what electrical load I generated via horn, signals, and brake lights. Well I figured that there msut be something shorting around the tank cover when it's installed. Anyway looked around and started pulling and pushing exposed wires with the key on and voila. A tight connection in the horn power wires sparked the fuse. Lengthened the wires a couple of inches and insulated them well with shrink and tape and I'm ridinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn! Thanks
 

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fokkersauras wrote:
Everybody, thanks for your help and suggestions. I removed the seat and tank (what do you call a fake tank?
The book seems to call it a top cover. BTW our manners are slipping,

:waving::waving:Welcome to the Best Goldwing Site on the Net! fokkersauras!:waving::waving:

Any connection to the eponymous Anthony?
 
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