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Discussion Starter #1
I have 4 goldwings. Looks like they will be parts bikes. 3 have titles. 78, 82, 86 have titles. 81 does not. I thougght i could make at least one rider out of them. I drained oil from 82. Its the most complete. Antifreeze in the oil. Motor doesnt turn over.ignition switch turns nothing on. My 81 sat 17 years. No history if it ever ran.78 sat inside for years.now outside.the guy left left sparkplug holes wide open. The 86 has no front fairing or headlight. I put a battery in to see what works. I get a solenoid click.its motor might be bad. So i have a jillion parts i guess. I need a running bike. Should i even try to fix one of these?
 

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Is the 81 engine any good? Could put it in the 82.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its pouring down rain right now.but thats my next move to see if its any good. Then transplant it. I have had 7 1500s. They just wear me out. To me the 4 cylinder oldwings and the original valkyrie are what a goldwing should be. So fingers crossed the 81 wont be locked up.i will remove the plugs.put a tbsp of transmission fluid down each hole.wait 24 hours then see if it turns over. If it does then try a compression test.go from there.all the ebay engines have been $800 with shipping added. I have bought entire bikes for that.
 

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The 1500 if we’ll maintaiNed will outlive most riders BUT a lot of them aren’t well taken off an suffer,they just don’t like setting,too many issues come to light after a few years setting,they weren’t a bad design bike so as to fail it owners.
I’ve had Goldwing since 1975,loved the all but my 1500 is by far the most enjoyable of all the years BUT I don’t have a 1800 so it might be my favorite if I rode one.
Looks like in your case you might just have some parts bikes or a lot of work in the future.
 

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I pdi'd one of the first GL 1000 in the UK that was bought by a shop employee. That one did nearly 40,000 miles in 3 years was sold, bought back at 50,000 and 5 years and last i heard was still running at well over 100,000 and that was 10 years ago.

The problems we had were:-

Sliding joint at crownwheel wore out as it was a very early one with no greaser on the swingarm
Crownwheel bearings went when it was on loan as owner was banned for 3 months and the rider did not notice play in the rear wheel bearings.
New rear tyre every 5000 but we were getting those cheap from Paul Dunstal as he was buying crated 850 gs suzukis removing exhausts and tyres, fitting his exhaust and Avons slapping on a couple of union jack stickers then re exporting to Japan and making very good money as the japanese at that time could only buy up to 650 unless it was an import

The rest was all routing servicing at 6000 intervals, or more likely 5000 when the rear tyre needed doing.

At that time Honda did not specify a belt chang interval and i dont remember ever doing them on that bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I loved the 4 1500s i owned. 20 yrs ago the weight didnt bother me. Now the 1500 is too heavy. Thats why i was going to change to the oldwings.about 150 pounds less. I had no idea i had accumulated a bunch of junk.
 

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The 86 has no front fairing or headlight. I put a battery in to see what works. I get a solenoid click.its motor might be bad. So i have a jillion parts i guess. I need a running bike. Should i even try to fix one of these?
I'll chime in on the '86 SE-i. Check the engine to make sure it is free to turn. Use the bolt at the back of the engine shown in pic. Turn the engine clockwise looking forward:
Engine 6.jpg
Need to know if you hear the fuel pump when the key is turned on. Fuel pump should come on for 3 to 5 seconds then stop. Will automatically start when engine starts. Expect the ECU is connected and at the back end of the bike under the trunk. Look for error codes. You see these from the left side of the bike looking at the side of the ECU. These engines and FI system is quite robust, and work well with relatively no maintenance. You do not need the front fairing installed to operate the engine. Good luck.
 

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I have 4 goldwings. Looks like they will be parts bikes. 3 have titles. 78, 82, 86 have titles. 81 does not. I thougght i could make at least one rider out of them. I drained oil from 82. Its the most complete. Antifreeze in the oil. Motor doesnt turn over.ignition switch turns nothing on. My 81 sat 17 years. No history if it ever ran.78 sat inside for years.now outside.the guy left left sparkplug holes wide open. The 86 has no front fairing or headlight. I put a battery in to see what works. I get a solenoid click.its motor might be bad. So i have a jillion parts i guess. I need a running bike. Should i even try to fix one of these?
I bet that '81 ran like a raped ape ... in '81. The '82 is likely in need of head gaskets. The '78 might be a rusty hulk inside. Unless you turn the '86 with a wrench, there's no telling about it. It might just need a starter or some other repair to the wiring since the fairing is gone. I' pull the plugs and try putting just a bit of oil misted in each, let sit, then try turning with a ratchet just to see if it's frozen or not. But I bet that '81 once screamed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Trying to take pictures
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I bought a very complete 80 model yesterday.it had always been garaged and sat in this dealer back room for 2 years. A old guy like me gave it to his grandson.the young guy took off all the tour stuff.it was a standard but the old guy had made it an interstate. For me it was good cause all the stuff was off. I had to sawzall the fairing mount bracket.it just wouldnt come out.so the dash works, instruments and tailight work.no headlight i have to rig that. I tried for 5 seconds the start button.it turns over good.so while ago i drained the antifreeze. Then pulled oil drain plug.thick GREY oil. So i guess 1 or 2 head gaskets are blown. Ive never done one on a goldwing. I did them on a dodge truck, chevy impala, and ford 289.it shouldnt be harder than those.i hope new gaskets, oil, antifreeze fixes it. I will change the oil and filter about 3 times before i try moving the bike on a ride. The 82 that wouldnt turn over had antifreeze in the oil too but after the antifreeze got out it was folllowed by very thick black oil. On this 80 model it was all grey. Input would be appreciated..
 

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When an engine is ran for a while with coolant in the oil they mix and turn grey and won't separate.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So is it likely head gaskets? I checked my manual and it says there are 2 threaded plugs that can leak.remove them, put permatex around the threads and reinstall.ever heard of that?
 

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So is it likely head gaskets? I checked my manual and it says there are 2 threaded plugs that can leak.remove them, put permatex around the threads and reinstall.ever heard of that?
Could be headgaskets, water pump or those plugs. They are in the head hidden under the cam shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok.questions: if head gaskets then 1 or both might be broken, worn too thin,something obvious will be visible? 2. If its the plugs under the heads how are they in there.how do i get them out.are they even available to replace.? 3. Waterpump- on a car theres a weephole and you start seeing a little trail when driving.how do i tell if its the pump. Freeplay on the shaft, the blades wiggle around,slop somewhere?
 

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OEM head gaskets are probably still available. You could get some aftermarket gaskets, or if you want a little better quality than aftermarket, cut your own out of some cereal boxes. .. :devilish:

The water pump does have a weep hole. Make sure it's cleaned out then look for some drips when the bike is running.

I don't think I've ever read about those plugs leaking. Mostly I think, if you can get the bike running, you should change the oil and drive it for a couple thousand miles, then re-evaluate the leak/moisture. If the bike's been sitting for a while, condensation may be the liquid you're seeing.
 

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Ok.questions: if head gaskets then 1 or both might be broken, worn too thin,something obvious will be visible? 2. If its the plugs under the heads how are they in there.how do i get them out.are they even available to replace.? 3. Waterpump- on a car theres a weephole and you start seeing a little trail when driving.how do i tell if its the pump. Freeplay on the shaft, the blades wiggle around,slop somewhere?
Sometimes it's hard to see if a headgasket is leaking, it can be a very small leak. I haven't seen the head plugs leak personally but I have seen photos of it. You have to remove the cams to get them out but you might be able to see traces of a leak by just removing the valve covers. You wouldn't need to replace the plugs, just reseal them, they are not available anyway. Check the water pump for play in the shaft and that the weep hole is open, I have seen them plugged with RTV, that would make it force water past the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I appreciate all the great input. My plans are, perhaps too high a goal but i plan on keeping the 80 as a standard as it was made. The candy muse red paint i doubt is available.a paint shop can take a camera and custom mix paint that will be close if not perfect. I have no plans on the 78 and 86 but to part out. I am going to make the 81 and 82 a combo part source to make one interstate version. I will have lots of parts leftover. I dont care what color it winds up.the randakk carb ki is $223. Is there not a suitable less expensive alternative? I have a friend who has built 16 show bikes and won trophies for his paint.thats way down the line.
 

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.the randakk carb ki is $223. Is there not a suitable less expensive alternative?
Not really. You can get OEM but the kits don't contain much and by the time you order everything Randakks kit has it ends up way higher than Randakks kit.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
I figure the fuel filter is clogged. The bike would start with a shot of starting fluid or squirt of gas. Once it ran and revved up for 10 seconds.never started again. I started with grey oil. I had left out the spring on the oil filter so i unscrewed it to install the spring.the oil now looks like chocolate milk. So now its time for 2 head gaskets, carb rebuild, timing belts. I have 5 oldwings now but this one was kept inside.even the original paint looks good.so its my keeper. I love the naked standard look. I figure $225 for randakk carb kit, $200 for gaskets, $ 75 for belts, $400 for tires, $80 for seatcover and i will be done. It may be march before i ride it but i could spend 10 k on a new sportster. Nah. I will keep my smallkyrie.
 

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I don't think you'd get enough coolant past the head gaskets and piston rings (head gaskets leak into combustion chamber) to turn the oil milky in 10 seconds of running. I'd sooner suspect a trashed water pump, oil and coolant can mix there, though you'd usually be getting drainage from the weep hole. And remember, there's about a half-quart or so of old oil captive in the rear engine cover that doesn't drain when you change oil, that old stuff would have mixed in with your new oil.

There's no real route for a leaky headgasket to get coolant direct to the oil, the oil return from the heads is way at the bottom of the head gasket. Only way I can see coolant getting there would be if you had a cracked head. You'd find traces of coolant inside the valve covers.

Before you condemn the headgaskets, it's worth doing a leakdown test. I had a custom one made, I provided the pieces and had a welder-buddy of mine weld it together. a short piece of pipe, a spark plug shell (spark plug with the porcelain guts smashed out leaving just the shell) and an air chuck fitting.

Get the cylinders you want to test to TDC on compression stroke (T1 mark for cyl 1&2, T2 mark for 3&4) cylinder on one side will be on compression stroke and should hold air pressure, the other side will be between exhaust and intake and won't hold pressure, to test that one rotate the crank one full rev to the same timing mark.

Connect your air hose to the leakdown tester, 50psi is enough, If the head gasket seal for that cylinder is good, it'll just hold the pressure. If not, you'll see the air starting to push coolant out of your open radiator cap.

Picture of homemade leakdown tester.
324533
 
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