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Hi, I have a 1990 gl1500 that I believe has a sidestand cutout problem. When I try to engage first gear with the sidestand up the bike will shut off as if the sidestand were down. This does not occur all of the time. I can go for miles, shut the bike down, fuel up go to a restuarant, or what have you. I then restart the bike, engage first and it runs as it should, then the next time I shut the bike off and attempt to restart and engage first with the sidestand up the bike will shut off. I have been stranded this way before. Has anyone else had this problem, or does anyone know what the problem is and how to corret it. I can't figure it out. Please help
 

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ktradcliff wrote:
Hi, I have a 1990 gl1500 that I believe has a sidestand cutout problem. When I try to engage first gear with the sidestand up the bike will shut off as if the sidestand were down. This does not occur all of the time. I can go for miles, shut the bike down, fuel up go to a restuarant, or what have you. I then restart the bike, engage first and it runs as it should, then the next time I shut the bike off and attempt to restart and engage first with the sidestand up the bike will shut off. I have been stranded this way before. Has anyone else had this problem, or does anyone know what the problem is and how to corret it. I can't figure it out. Please help
:waving::waving:Welcome to the Best Goldwing Site on the Internet ktradcliff!:waving::waving:

For starters I'd take the sidestand switch loose and give it a good cleaning with WD40. When the engine fails to crank does the sidestand light stay on?
 

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The sidestand switch is a single pole double throw switch. When the stand is down, the switch is made from the green ground wire to the Yellow/Black wire which lights the sidestand light by grounding it. The UP wire Green/White is grounded when the stand is raised. The Green/White wire provides grounds to the clutch switch, the reverse system, and the starting system. The other side of the clutch switch has a Green/Red wire which provides a ground to the reverse diode assembly in series with the sidestand in the up position and the clutch lever depressed. You have to have a solid ground on the Green/White wire on the UP pole of the sidestand switch or the engine will shut down.

Clip an ohmmeter lead on the Green/Red wire of the clutch switch and with the sidestand up, you should see nearly 0 ohms. Operate the clutch lever several times to see if it switches off and on cleanly and stays on steadily with the handle squeezed. Tie the clutch lever down a bit and operate the sidestand up and down, you should see the ohmmeter go to 0 every time the stand comes up. The resistance should go higher when the stand is down. If you don't get these indications, reverse the ohmmeter leads and try again, there are diodes in the Reverse Diode Assembly that could confuse the issue. If this doesn't narrow the problem down it's probably too intermittent so another tack on the issue is advised.

One way to check out an intermittent in this area is to attach a ground wire temporarily to the Green/White wire. This will bypass the sidestand switch and allow you to ride the bike (careful you could take off with the stand down) to see if the problem goes away. If it does it's the sidestand switch. If it still occurs there's a good chance it's the clutch switch.

As I mentioned in my first post on this subject, a shot of WD40 in the clutch and sidestand switchesmay well solve the problem. If all else fails get back to us and we'll explore this problem a little deeper.
 

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I wonder why the turn signals are dimly lit and if it's related to the stand problem? Would a problem with the charging circuit cause the sidestand problem?
 

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Thanks for the reply, and you got me thinking. I failed to mention that when the turn signal indicator lights are dimly lit is when the reverse lever is pulled up and reverse is supposed to be engaged, but it is not. The reverse indicator light does not come on and nothing happens when I push the starter button, but the turn signal indicators light up very dimly. All of these problems seem to be tied in together, the side-stand cutoff problem and the reverse and lights. This is very confusing, and I hope someone can shed some light on this problem.
 

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ktradcliff, did you get your problem solved?

(YES! I am throwing these old messages back to the top of the forum to look for an answer!)

Ruaidh
 

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I've replaced the side stand kill-switch and it didn't fix it. Kind of at a loss now. Starts and runs fine in neutral - dies when you put it in gear. Put it in gear and the turn indicator lights on the dash glow about 25%. Won't run in gear and reverse doesn't work
 

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One shop referred me to the "gear selection indicator" on the front of the engine and gave me a printout for troubleshoot it. I guess that is where I am headed next. Seems all the mechanics are out on vacation; one mechanic I've been referred to by three people is gone until August 9th! How dare he?!?

My thanks to all that have offered help or sympathy!

Ruaidh
 

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ktradcliff wrote:
Thanks for the reply, and you got me thinking. I failed to mention that when the turn signal indicator lights are dimly lit is when the reverse lever is pulled up and reverse is supposed to be engaged, but it is not. The reverse indicator light does not come on and nothing happens when I push the starter button, but the turn signal indicators light up very dimly. All of these problems seem to be tied in together, the side-stand cutoff problem and the reverse and lights. This is very confusing, and I hope someone can shed some light on this problem.
OK, I know I have a short somewhere but I don't know where. I've pulled the Tupperware off both sides down to the false tank and played with wires under and inside of everything. I guess I'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop. I've been referred to one that has a good reputation; I just wish I had been able to find this one myself. I can turn a wrench but when it comes down to chasing electronics I am unfortunately in way over my head.

ktradcliff, I'll PM you and let you know what we find out on mine at least. I wish I had found the magic feather that made this one fly on my own, but apparently this isn't the day for me.
 

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Don't be stingy, let us all know what caused the problem.
 

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exavid wrote:
Don't be stingy, let us all know what caused the problem.
I promise! I kind of hoped that ktradcliff had found an answer since this post originated last fall but no such luck.I promise that I will post at least what the solution was on my version of this problem.
 

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ktradcliff wrote:
No I have not solved the problem as of yet.
Not sure if this is an answer for you or what but here is another tip I found:

"This may or may not be related. After my 92 was about six months old, the electrical system would go out and then come back on. Finally, the thing went dead and didn't come back on. The problem was a wire that attaches to the back of the fuse block was not tightened at assembly... simple solution to the problem but difficult to find...just had to tightened the screw... the dealer couldn't even find the problem."

Also, what we found on my bike was a ground block in the wiring harness on the left side of the bike, taped against the frame near the reverse lever. It had gotten so hot that it literally melted; the shop told me it was hot enough to be a possible fire hazard. Rather than pay for a new harness they fixed/rebuilt the ground block. They had pushed and pulled and played with wires left from the previous owner and the problem on the bike quite. Prior to replacing all the Tupperware I removed about 20 feet of extra wire, two automotive relays and three extra switches leftover from the PO.

I still have gremlins as the OD and neutral indicator lights don't light but it rides and I can fix those as I get around to them. Good luck to you!
 

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I found this goldwingfacts.com when google researching a problem I am having with my 90 Gl1500. The steps I have found to test this were excellent, but like "ktradcliff", I am stuck at a similar spot. Except for the following differnces. 1) My reverse works. 2) I have hooked an ohm meter to the green/red connector on the clutch switch and my results vary. (Specifically: 1 red lead on the grn/red connector on the switch with the wire attached and the other black wire on my meter connected to ground). So clearly that switch could be a problem. But when I attach a jumper wire, closing that circuit, the bike has the same problem.
 

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At first, I thought my side stand switch was faulty. By unplugging the switch and putting a jumper wire on the Grn/wht wire I was able to get the bike to run fine. But that set of dimmly lit turn signal indicators suggested I am not done. I bought another sidestand switch and found it does the same thing. This time, I took a meter to the both switches and they both work perfectly.

I believe my reverse switch works perfectly too. I found I have 2 clutch switches. The 1st one activates as you just start to pull in the lever. I assume that signals the cruise control. The other switch activates when the lever is pulled in from 90-100%. That is the switch that is in question, BUT THE BIKE STILL SHUTS OFF WHEN I PUT THE BIKE IN GEAR WITH THAT CLUTCH SAFETY CIRCUIT OPEN OR CLOSED. I thought I should be able to bypass these 3 switches, one at a time to isolate the problem, but that theory is not solving this mistery.
 

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Thanks Will. But I have looked at the sidestand switch very closely. I even bought a second switch and they both have the same characteristics. There are 3 wires, not 2 like my enduro. The grn wire is ground. The other 2 are Grn/Wht and Yel/Blk. When the stand is down, you get continuity from the Yel/Blk to GRD and the dash indicator lights. When the stand is up, you get continuity from the Grn/Wht to ground and the dash light is off.

When I made a test wire and attached it to the Grn/Wht lead and I grounded the other end, I thought for sure it was the sidestand safety switch, so I ordered a used replacement.

Since the replacement switch did not solve the problem, I took out the service manual and a meter and fully tested the switches. They both operate as described.

The schematic keeps leadiing me back to large junction blocks for that segment of the wiring harness. I can't seem to navigate through them to a solution. Nor do I know where they are mounted on the bike itself.
 
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