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I do not need the kickstand anymore, it looked good all chrome but now I removed the protector plates (all five of them) and currently having them chromed. Time to remove the kickstand. I cut the tab off and removed the switch. There are three wires to the switch. I assume one isa ground (Dark Green) the other two are used to complete a circuit. One goes to a relay, the other to the light on the dash. As the kickstand rotates it also rotates a tab on the switch. I can manually turn on the dash light or turn it off. My idea is to remove the switch solder the wires together thereby leaving the circuit constant. Does anyone see anything wrong with this idea?
 

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No problem until the first time you take off with your kickstand down. And believe me you will.

Burt
The older I get, the better and faster I was.
 

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Not much risk of that with a trike!:cooldevil:
 

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TRIKE, KICK STAND:dude::dude::dude:
 

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SpiderBob wrote:
....My idea is to remove the switch solder the wires together thereby leaving the circuit constant. Does anyone see anything wrong with this idea?
I didn't look at that circuit.. the answer depends on whether it is open or closed... but if is it open with the kick stand up.. then soldering them together won't work... need to leave them open.... Maybe someone knows for sure.. Jim


edit: You would leave on pair open and the other pair closed
 

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sandiegobrass wrote:
Jimwrote:
I didn't look at that circuit.. the answer depends on whether it is open or closed... but if is it open with the kick stand up.. then soldering them together won't work... need to leave them open.... Maybe someone knows for sure.. Jim


edit: You would leave on pair open and the other pair closed
Jim,

There are only three wires going to the switch, unless the Green is a common, hmmmm. thanks for the pic., so if I see this right, I can go back to the connector, disconnect it and see if the light comes on the dash. If so, I can make a jumper at that point to close the circuit and see if the light goes off.

Am I reading too much into this, or you think I'm on the right track. I'll put a ohm meter on it but I no longer have the kickstand to see what position it should normally be in.... Bob
 

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I just found in the book Sidestand switch GRN/WHT and ground. (weird thing is they show only two wires, I have three) Continuity with sidestand up, NO continuity with sidestnad down. So that would mean the switch is open in the down position (right), I'm not an electrician, but I can deal with it if necessary. So when the sidestand is up the circuit is open, opps that would be closed. The jumper should work as I see it, making continuity. Anyone see something really wrong?



I really don't want to blow a diode somewhere.
 

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Yes, tie Grn/Wh to Grn and leave Yel/Blk open and capped off.
 

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SpiderBob wrote:
sandiegobrass wrote:
Jimwrote:
I didn't look at that circuit.. the answer depends on whether it is open or closed... but if is it open with the kick stand up.. then soldering them together won't work... need to leave them open.... Maybe someone knows for sure.. Jim


edit: You would leave on pair open and the other pair closed
Jim,

There are only three wires going to the switch, unless the Green is a common, hmmmm. thanks for the pic., so if I see this right, I can go back to the connector, disconnect it and see if the light comes on the dash. If so, I can make a jumper at that point to close the circuit and see if the light goes off.

Am I reading too much into this, or you think I'm on the right track. I'll put a ohm meter on it but I no longer have the kickstand to see what position it should normally be in.... Bob
I'd cut the switch off the pigtail... solderthe two greens together and leave the yellow open... (That is the raised position)...

[quick draw Rudy!!]
 

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Thanks guys, will do it today. One more thing completed on my list. Still waiting for my chrome parts.
 

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sandiegobrass wrote:
SpiderBob wrote:
sandiegobrass wrote:
Jimwrote:
I didn't look at that circuit.. the answer depends on whether it is open or closed... but if is it open with the kick stand up.. then soldering them together won't work... need to leave them open.... Maybe someone knows for sure.. Jim


edit: You would leave on pair open and the other pair closed
Jim,

There are only three wires going to the switch, unless the Green is a common, hmmmm. thanks for the pic., so if I see this right, I can go back to the connector, disconnect it and see if the light comes on the dash. If so, I can make a jumper at that point to close the circuit and see if the light goes off.

Am I reading too much into this, or you think I'm on the right track. I'll put a ohm meter on it but I no longer have the kickstand to see what position it should normally be in.... Bob
I'd cut the switch off the pigtail... solderthe two greens together and leave the yellow open... (That is the raised position)...

[quick draw Rudy!!]
Bad part was I used YOUR diagram to come up with it. :cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1:
 

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WOW! you see I did not even see that on the diagram, I see it now that you circled it, guess that is why I'm NOT an electrician.

Again, thanks to BOTH of ya :action:
 

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OK, so it's done, perfect working order. I soldered, then used shrink tube on both and made it clean.

Thanks,
Bob
 
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