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$75? Two of them and make-yur-own manifolds and VW crosslinkage and you too can have a SpeedsterWing!:shock:

Or mount 'em on Randakk's intakes. Much cheaper than $500 or more for the 40IDF carbs!
 

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Okay I've checked out the 1200 wing site and I like the way its laid out. Much more efficient for our topic of discussion. Thanks for poointing me to it.

Now I've been doing some research and found that I don't think I will try a solex. I think now I will try a weber 34 DMTR that is from a 1.6 VW Golf which is jetted already to a 28/32.

Is anyone currently running a weber jetted to this size?
How does it run?
Is there a flat spot in the second stage?
What kind of fuel MPG are you getting?
How is the pep?
Does it have any giddyup and GO?

Sorry if I'm asking too many questions but this idea now has taken root and I want to try and do it right the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
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Solex chart.... thus far:
 

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my question is,was you people around 3 yrs. ago when I was
doing my R&D on the 1000 & 1100cc kit that I sell. Now testing a 1200cc manifold also using a VW carb. and wonder
if it will always need extra warm up time. Open for suggistons. ldwingnut.com
 

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Discussion Starter #46
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Around where 3 years ago? :?
Looks like you and I have just joined this group....
Myself, I've had essentially a zero social presence on the WWW until a few months ago, mostly due to my employment.

But I be a free man now... :D
 

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Electrics...
It's the only way I see it happening.

Temperatures here are in the 30's and 40's now. Calling for snow tonight and sporadically throughout the weekend. 29 degrees F this morning on my thermometer. MyGL has noticed the change. My jetting is off slightly to begin with, and the cold has exaggerated the problem. Been riding the 900 lately as a result. Piping hot air into the intake is not the answer as sweating may/will result. I'm trying to find the right combination of product to instantly (or as close to "instant" as I can achieve) provide manifold heat prior to the engine reaching normal operating temperature. Planning for 12V electrically heated Type-3 manifold testing commencing next weekend...

I'm .... neutralistic .... in the materials I've used so far concerning the aluminum VW manifold. More suited for PVC, yet I've not started construction with that material yet. It will work though, once I find the appropriate, dedicatedmaterials for aluminum, and then for PVC.

Have ordered PVC sheet and bar stock. Manifold construction in this direction will probably happen first part of next month, as I've been testing various PVC pieces and assemblies with gasoline for permeationwhich won't conclude until the end of this month. I should test the new stuff when it comes in, but I won't. PVC also to be electrically heated.

This amount of cold, this early in the year is new to me and I should've started testing by now, but unfortunately have had other priorities.
 

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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
Electrics...
It's the only way I see it happening.

Temperatures here are in the 30's and 40's now. Calling for snow tonight and sporadically throughout the weekend. 29 degrees F this morning on my thermometer. MyGL has noticed the change. My jetting is off slightly to begin with, and the cold has exaggerated the problem. Been riding the 900 lately as a result. Piping hot air into the intake is not the answer as sweating may/will result. I'm trying to find the right combination of product to instantly (or as close to "instant" as I can achieve) provide manifold heat prior to the engine reaching normal operating temperature. Planning for 12V electrically heated Type-3 manifold testing commencing next weekend...

I'm .... neutralistic .... in the materials I've used so far concerning the aluminum VW manifold. More suited for PVC, yet I've not started construction with that material yet. It will work though, once I find the appropriate, dedicatedmaterials for aluminum, and then for PVC.

Have ordered PVC sheet and bar stock. Manifold construction in this direction will probably happen first part of next month, as I've been testing various PVC pieces and assemblies with gasoline for permeationwhich won't conclude until the end of this month. I should test the new stuff when it comes in, but I won't. PVC also to be electrically heated.

This amount of cold, this early in the year is new to me and I should've started testing by now, but unfortunately have had other priorities.
looking forward to your report.
 

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I'm excited BM, but this weather is a bit hard for me to plan around. Weather forecasting is accurate enough, but I continually dismiss it with less than appreciated results.

I was hoping to spend time on it this weekend, but the girls bikes are being put up for the winter and each has their turn with me on prepping, and performing their own maintenance tasks for the hibernation.

Solo prep is not an option for eitheryet. :cool:
 

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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
I'm excited BM, but this weather is a bit hard for me to plan around. Weather forecasting is accurate enough, but I continually dismiss it with less than appreciated results.

I was hoping to spend time on it this weekend, but the girls bikes are being put up for the winter and each has their turn with me on prepping, and performing their own maintenance tasks for the hibernation.

Solo prep is not an option for eitheryet. :cool:
By all means, get them gals bikes stored properly and they'll have a trouble free wakeup in the spring.
 

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You may have to consider either oil or coolant heaters like cars use for fast warmups. If the block is already warm from that kinda thing then you should be all set. Maybe a block heater itself.

Wouldn't have it's being a 1200 instead of an 1100 or 1000 would make that much difference.

Been a while for me, but I don't remember using any thing like that for either my Type 3 squareback or the '64 bus I used to own.

I do remember having to sit and let the bus idle before taking off, About a minute or so.

The type 3 was throttle body injected, I think, but didn't have to wait long before running.
 

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Those ran exhaust heat didn't they?....
 

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When living in Independence, Mo years ago I rebuilt the engine in a 66 type 2 VW bus. All I ever used for it in the winter was a dipstick heater for the oil. Made it a whole lot easier to start in the mornings.

I did goof up at first on the plug wires when I put the engine back in. Barely got it in before a big snow storm moved in for New Years Eve so I rushed it. Thought it started fine so I drove it to a family gathering 15 miles away New Years Day and made it to the location just fine even though it felt under powered. Well on the way home got 5 miles from the house and ran out of gas which was a full tank when we started out that morning. Got a ride home for all 3 of us, grabbed a 5 gallon can, got it filled and got back to the bus. Filled it up and and drove it home. 2 days later when the snow cleared I re-checked the plug wires and found I had two of them crossed. After that back to 25 miles to the gallon.
 

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The used exhaust heat to warm the interior of the vehicle.
The bus must a had the tube under the intake, but I don't remember. That vehicle was back before 1979.

The type 3 didn't have that tube. The center air-distributor sat right down almost on the block. I think it was warmed just from the heat rising from the block itsself.
 

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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
Those ran exhaust heat didn't they?....
Yes, the intake manifold had a smaller crosstube that pulled heat from the exhaust. It was sealed and a completely separate tube so the exhaust fumes couldn't enter the intake manifold.


Pre 67 buses ran heater boxes built around the exhaust pipes as did the bugs. 67 and later ran heat exchangers molded around the exhaust pipes. I found the older style heater boxes actually warmed the car faster than the exchanger models. All this was before the type 3 buses.

The heat exchangers were completely enclosed so less chance of exhaust fumes entering the cab of the bus or car.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
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Well, my goal is to have something that isstand-alone and independent of other power sources which would give manifold heat immediately at engine start-up while away from home. In all reality, my electric heating ideashould be considered supplemental to passive heating of my manifold, but I've gotta take it one step at a time.

Edit:
I'm certain that "immediately" won't be a literal act, but I'm shooting to get as close to it as possible.
 

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Don't think its possible.
Cars and trucks don't have immediate heat either, takes 5 or 6 miles before warm air starts coming out. Or warming up while cleaning snow and ice from the windows so you can see.
 

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