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I am still having starter clutch problems. After using Seafoam and changing oil(Mobil I) my 1100 starter turns but does not turn engine over when semi-cold Or not so cold. This morning would not start @ 50 deg. Have also taken starter apart & cleaned it out. QUESTION Does anyone have any experience with SLICK 50 in a 4 cyl goldwing? I called their 800 number & they do not recommend it with a wet clutch. ANY THOUGHTS????????:?:stumped::
 

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If Slick 50 doesn't recommend it on a wet clutch can't imagine it the route to take. I have read one possible solution is diesel fuel. drain the oil, fill it full of diesel fuel let it sit for a day or two and then drain. some even suggest filling with diesel fuel to normal oil level and run it till warm at idle and then drain. I'll need to do something too, mine does the same thing. Right now heads are still off so plan to take the starter off and clean that and inside where it attaches.
 

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Still Learning
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Have you ruled out hydro-lock? Fuel in cylinders from leaking float valve will kept it from turning over and can bend the rods.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Slick 50 is a con job. Nothing less.
It should not be used in anything, much less a combustion engine.
 

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newday777 wrote:
Have you ruled out hydro-lock? Fuel in cylinders from leaking float valve will kept it from turning over and can bend the rods.
It's not hydro-locking. He stated the starterclutch will not engage when the motor is cold.

To the OP: try using a fresh warmbattery. The starter may not be turning up fast enough to engage the clutch when the battery is cold.

No Slick 50! Use a 10-30w weight oil without friction modifiers. A couple of ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase won't hurt anything.

Hobie
 

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I think the diesel fuel treatment mentioned is something that could be tried.. also, I wouldn't be afraid to try some Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).. One of the properties of ATF is to preserve friction on things like clutches (including overriding clutches like the starter) while providing lubrication to bearings... Note: I haven't tried this, but I would try this before I split the case...
 

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Both Slick-50 and Lucas Oil Stabilizer are heavy oils and the last thing that you need.
MMO and Seafoam are light oils with solvents that may or may not help your starter clutch.

The starter clutch is a sprag clutch not a centrifugal clutch and should if clean and in good condition be engaged even before the starter sprocket starts to turn so a faster turning starter will not help.:shock:
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
MMO and Seafoam are light oils with solvents that may or may not help your starter clutch.

The starter clutch is a sprag clutch not a centrifugal clutch and should if clean and in good condition be engaged even before the starter sprocket starts to turn so a faster turning starter will not help.:shock:
Light oils or "top" oils with solvents may or may not help.



However, the starter clutch is a ramp and roller clutch, and cannot be engagedUNTIL the starter sprocket turns.
 

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Junior Grue
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glhonda wrote:
However, the starter clutch is a ramp and roller clutch, and cannot be engagedUNTIL the starter sprocket turns.
Puzzle me this. The starter sprocket can not be turned in one direction without turning the starter clutch even by hand and if in working condition. In the other direction it turns freely. That spells engaged as in a sprag clutch to me.
As I said spinning the starter sprocket faster will not help a none engaging starter clutch.
 

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I don't know. My '83 starter clutch will spin sometimes before it engages with a nasty sound.

Hobie

I'm confused.........not so much
 

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Slick 50...worse thing I've ever done to a bike. Thought is sounded like a good idea (in my inexperienced youth) and so I added it during an oil change on a bike with a wet clutch. This stuff is heavy on molybdenum, which binds to the cylinder walls and makes them slippery..a good thing. What it also does is bind to the clutch plates and makes them slippery...a very bad thing. Once in place, there is no removal other than to replace the clutch plates. It was an expensive lesson! This is also to a lesser degree the reason why we are warned against oils labeled as "energy conserving" The friction modifiers eventually build up and cause this problem. With slick 50 eventually was more like RIGHT NOW.
 

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Coastrider, have you gone in the planitary gears in the starter and make they are lubed up also and when you take the 3 gears out make sure the bearing on the output shaft is free in spinning, and stay away from slick 50 it is nothing but junk
 

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To free up the starter clutch I've read and used 1 QT ATF with 3 Qts of 10w30 cheap oil. If you can get it running use that cocktail for about 100 miles or until the starter engages all the time. To the best of my knowledge that has always worked.
 

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The primary "do-bad" ingredient for slick 50 is "PolyTetraFluoroEthylene" or PTFE.. commonly referred to by a trademark name of "Teflon"... very bad for wet clutches..
 

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Right you are SanDiego. My mistake. Then again the bottle was many miles and even more years ago.
 

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For years I have used 4 quarts of cheap 10W motor oil & 1 quart of Kerosene to clean up engines (remove the oil filter, canister type. Spin on filter, leave in place) after draining the old oil. Then refill the crankcase with the oil/kerosene mix. Start the engine and let it idle until the engine is well warmed up. Shut the engine down and quickly pull the crankcase drain plug. Use caution the oil will be hot and will come out with force. I did this to clean up the inside of the engine and valve train before starting any engine work.
Bob
 

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1st question would be what weight of oil are you using? Every year at this time we see the same problem come up and it is almost always caused by 20/50 oil. Everyone I know of that has had this problem (including me) went back to the recommended 10/40 and my problem went away.
 

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Sorry, Guys. I've been busy with other things (Honey-do's). Will NOT use SLICK 50 after hearing of your experiences. I am going to change O&F using conventional 5w30,possibly with 1 Qt. ATF thrown in. I thank all of you for your input & will keep you posted, although it may be a few days before I get to it
 
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