[Transam1]

I realize there is a new thread on this but my prob. seems a bit different.
Okay,
So I have a flat spot right above idle om my 89 Gl1500. The bike was ridden only about 250 miles over the last yr. before I bought it. Figured a little varnish so I dosed it with Seafoam. Also realized it was i bit cold blooded and will rev it a couple times before I ride off. Now it seems to hit a spot around 1500 - 2000 rpm where it just kinda stays flat, when I give it a bit of throttle it will surge forward and pull clean. Not real bad but gives some uncertainty especially when turning at a stop sign as there isn't any smooth momentum. I was curious as to how much play there should be in the throttle ? I can turn the grip about 1/4 inch before you can feel the pressure from the cable. The idle is smooth as glass at 800-900 rpm no surging etc. so not thinking of vacuum leak but could be wrong. Kinda leaning toward either adjustment on throttle cable or needs lubed or obstructed pilot jet. Any insight would be helpful. Thinking of pulling air cleaner housing and blasting carb cleaner on linkage and throats of carbs.
Sorry for the book,
Thanks,
Chris

 

[beertap tom]

1/4" play is probably right Chris. Early 1500 Wings had some carb issues. But first thing I would say is get the carbs synced and see if it helps.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1500balancecarbs.htm

 

[Transam1]

1/4" play is probably right Chris. Early 1500 Wings had some carb issues. But first thing I would say is get the carbs synced and see if it helps.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1500balancecarbs.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AbtN4QQ1R4

Don't have a sync tool, anyone know how much they charge at the shop ?
thanks

 

[ScottInIowa]

Probably more than $44.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ40034

Nice carb sync set - I bought one about a month ago.

 

[Transam1]

Well, took the bike apart today, pulled the air cleaner assembly and blasted the carbs inside and out really good with carb cleaner. Lubed the cables and adjusted them. Doesn't sound like any vacuum leak as no idle change when I sprayed around vacuum lines and sides of carb. Seems it did no good and to my hearing seems to be making more noise from the air cleaner area.

Also seemed to warm up faster temp wise. I did pull the rad cap and checked coolant level and it was a bit low. Could be I'm over analyzing again, I've been known to do that. Anyway fairly frustrating day.

I will probably look at buying a motion pro sync tool. Have a friend that will go halfers with me.
Thanks

 

[Transam1]

Oh, does anyone know what size adapter is needed for the right bank to sync the carbs ? Also noticed Honda shop manual shows different procedure for syncing. It shows to pull the #2 blue vacuum tube from the right intake vacuum joint. This would save me buying a different adapter if not needed.
Any info appreciated,
Thanks,
Chris

 

[bones200]

The 88-89's had issues with flat spots. The best fix I know of is #60 pilot jets and clean(soak) carbs. The product update is not available through Honda now. Most of the time just jetting up fixed most.
When I did mine. One side pilot screw was 2 1/2 turns out and the other was right at 3 to idle the best. Every engine is different(fine tune yours).By the way. manual says initial is 3-3 1/8 out. But that is with stock pilot jets.
250 miles in a year. It sat a lot. If Seafoam fixes it..you got lucky. Never had good luck from a miracle bottle personally.
Not to sure your sync will be out if it idles smoothly either. After separating my carbs and cleaning. My sync was out less than 3 in/hg.

 

[Transam1]

Well allready ordered sync tool. Have heard about a gear for advancing timing like 3 degrees that helps problem. Anyone familiar with this ?

 

[DriverRider]

A change of timing by 4 degrees is not going to effect you bikes poor running.

You have had a couple of threads, what EXACTLY is the problem?

Where does you engine currently idle at? How does it start when cold and can you shut the choke off after it fires up? How does it run under full acceleration? Does the idle surge or any other erratic RPM jump? Does it backfire?If a hesitation when exactly does it occur, from a stop or accelerating in high gear from 2500 RPM? What are you getting for fuel mileage? Have you looked for a proper accelerator pump discharge? When cruising at a steady speed does the engine surge and at what RPM?

What maintenance work have you done and what is the mileage on the bike?

 

[DriverRider]

The more info that can be gathered it is better all the way around to try to DIAGNOSE which is often overlooked on the Forum by simply throwing parts at preconceived notions and abilities with regard to repairs. :? Good Luck.

 

[Cornpone]

Transam,

I encourage you to seek all feedback/input you can get, from any site you like. As I told you on the GWOF, my procedure is to BASELINE the bike first, with carb synchronization (which also means vacuum check) and pilot screw (air/fuel mix) adjustment per the manual for your bike, and then adjust throttle cable and whatever.

Glad to hear you've got your carb synch gauge coming. You'll like using it and the near-immediate change it will make in your Wing's performance. As I said on the GWOF (I'm "Tatanka" over there) I run my throttle cable at zero slack, not tight, just no slack once everything else is cool.

Good Luck!

 

[Transam1]

A change of timing by 4 degrees is not going to effect you bikes poor running.

You have had a couple of threads, what EXACTLY is the problem?

Where does you engine currently idle at? How does it start when cold and can you shut the choke off after it fires up? How does it run under full acceleration? Does the idle surge or any other erratic RPM jump? Does it backfire?If a hesitation when exactly does it occur, from a stop or accelerating in high gear from 2500 RPM? What are you getting for fuel mileage? Have you looked for a proper accelerator pump discharge? When cruising at a steady speed does the engine surge and at what RPM?

What maintenance work have you done and what is the mileage on the bike?

No backfire, engine idles fine at 850. Feel like it has a flat spot from 1750 - 2250 rpm then accelerates both carbs seem to shoot fuel fine. When cruising at 2250 rpm seems flat, like it's topped out then pulls clean from 3000 rpm. Don't get me wrong it's not a huge surge or flat spot just irritating . Now I have this weird noise coming form my airbox. see the pics and video. Choke works fine bike has 40,000 miles on it. At this time I've ran both Seafoam and Starbrite through it. Changed the fuel filter, cleaned the throats of the carbs and linkage with carb cleaner lubed and adj, cables and checked air filter.

video http://youtu.be/Pf7hjULD-gw

Thanks,
chris

 

[DriverRider]

No backfire, engine idles fine at 850. Feel like it has a flat spot from 1750 - 2250 rpm then accelerates both carbs seem to shoot fuel fine. When cruising at 2250 rpm seems flat, like it's topped out then pulls clean from 3000 rpm. Don't get me wrong it's not a huge surge or flat spot just irritating . Now I have this weird noise coming form my airbox. see the pics and video. Choke works fine bike has 40,000 miles on it. At this time I've ran both Seafoam and Starbrite through it. Changed the fuel filter, cleaned the throats of the carbs and linkage with carb cleaner lubed and adj, cables and checked air filter.
video http://youtu.be/Pf7hjULD-gw
Thanks,
chris

If it idles fine that can pretty much eliminate a vacuum leak in the manifolds and attached hoses. How does it do on a hard acceleration up through the gears to highway speeds and beyond. If you crank on the choke during the 2250 RPM cruise speed what happens. Do the slides work in tandem when revving the engine. Check the slide action again with your foot firmly on the brake, bike in third or fourth gear and simulate a good load on the engine by slipping the clutch and twisting the throttle for a couple of brief seconds while on center stand. You should see a good stream of vaporized fuel from the slide needle area on both. Have a work light pre set-up so you can see down the holes.

The sucking sound from the right front is normal, the Secondary Air System is dumping air into the exhaust for emissions. When quickly twisting the throttle open in neutral and engine warm the sucking sound should temporarily subside and as RPM's drop it should continue as before.

A quick test for checking sync without tools is with engine idling drop your idle via the adjuster knob and see how low it will go before stalling. It should be able to drop down to the 450-550 RPM range, if it can't, sync could be way out or throttle cable(s) could be tight among other things.

 

[Transam1]

Accelerates smoothly after 2500 or so. Will check the choke at 2250 rpms today along with the center stand test. I did see fuel squirting from both carbs the other day but will check again. I listened to a 90 gl1500 yesterday and his bike doesn't make that sound from the air cleaner assembly. Could have sworn mine wasn't making it either before cleaning carbs. Would there be any reason why that noise would have increased ? I.E. something in the line or something ? :shock:
Thanks for your help,
Chris

 

[DriverRider]

Am reasonably certain there should be the gurgling when idling, hopefully I didn't get it the other way around.:gunhead: That hose is a little difficult to attach and has started a few threads about NOISE. Shot air also gets its air from that same pipe. If it is making more noise than normal and we will get a consensus here it would be the PAIR system not the Shot as it would not idle good with air introduced into the intakes.

There should never be air coming out of that pipe only going in.

 

[Transam1]

Found out that hose wasn't seated on the tube from the air cleaner base. Half to take 1/2 the bike apart to get to it though what a pain. Just received my carb sync tool so will use it anyway. Not sure that is my problem though. Changed plugs since I had everything apart. The ones I pulled out were super clean, do these bikes run fairly lean ? I'm getting ready for a short trip in about 8 days so I'm flushing the clutch fluid since I have the speed bleeder and it's a quick job. Hopefully I can get this puppy resolved before I go. If not I'll deal with it for now. Oh, the sync tool says calibrate it off master carb or one with linkage attached. That would be the left carb. correct ?
Will do the tests you described on the stand hopefully in the next day or two.
Thanks again,
Chris

 

[DriverRider]

Left carb would be the master.