[nightstalker0352]

imported post

Hello all,just picked up my first Goldwing. She's an 82 Aspencade with problems. Dude I got her from said he was driving and started knocking so he parked it last year.I cleaned the gas tank, blowout thelines,oil was nonexistent, dead battery. I've read about the #3 float, would that "blow out" the rest of the carbs. The engine does a real slow turnover when on a jumper and i can hear compression from the pipes. At least the engine is not seized up

 

[alotofjunk]

imported post

pull the four plugs should crank better. then take compression reading

with guage from all cylinders,they all should be above 100# to at least

run. you will know then if that "knocking" sound was a rod bearing

and whether to put any money into this motor.

 

[chris in va]

imported post

Knocking could also be the carbs gummed up or out of synch. Mine had a HORRIBLE knock and really made me question my purchase until guys on here reassured me it wasn't a rod about to let go.

Sure enough, did a carb rebuild and tweaked the floats, no more knocking. Plenty of trans rattle though.

 

[Hatchetman]

imported post

pull your plugs & soak your cylinders with penetrating oil over night. Spin it over the next day to blow that out. Clean oil & filter before you start the bike. To see if fuel is delivered to carbs, open the drains on the float bowls. Add 1/2 can of sea foam to your fuel & 4 oz to your oil.

If you do a compression test, the throttle must be held wide open to allow it to breath. Your compression will be low until you have ran at least a tank of fuel through the engine.

If it starts & does not appear to be blown, you must replace the timing belts because if one fails, your engine will be garbage from internal collision.

Most likely, your carbs will have to come off for a detailed cleaning. The passages inside are very small & when they plug up, the bike runs like crap.

Keep us posted, Ask lots of questions!! Welcome to the goldwing family!

 

[Rumple]

imported post

You say "oil was non-existent". So was the crankcase dry? Not good. Change your oil and filter like hatchman said. Do your compression test. You may want to set up a separate container for your fuel, just in case your tank has rust in it. Get a new battery and remember go slow on the starter cycles. About 10 seconds of turn over and let your starter cool down. They aren't cheap and they are one of the weak links of the GL1100. Just keep at it and the forum here will help you anyway we can. Where are you located? add that to your profile. There may be someone close by to help you first hand.
Later Rumple

 

[nightstalker0352]

imported post

Update, pulled the carbs, valve covers, & plugs. Got her to running late last night or was it this morning? The "knock" is the shaft in the transfer case! Had to put fluid in there to (dry). How the hell did he let this happen? Any one know a easy way to check the case with out removal? As I said I'm new to Goldwings, had a couple CB750 and currently ride a little Rebel 250. Where can I pick up good repair manual? Noticed after she was running the electrical issues (got more lights than you shake a dead cat at). Don't know what I love better, the rebuild or the ride after?

 

[Bagmaster]

imported post

All the manuals can be found on the internet, download and enjoy.

 

[Bagmaster]

imported post

nightstalker0352 wrote:

Update, pulled the carbs, valve covers, & plugs. Got her to running late last night or was it this morning? The "knock" is the shaft in the transfer case! Had to put fluid in there to (dry). How the hell did he let this happen? Any one know a easy way to check the case with out removal? As I said I'm new to Goldwings, had a couple CB750 and currently ride a little Rebel 250. Where can I pick up good repair manual? Noticed after she was running the electrical issues (got more lights than you shake a dead cat at). Don't know what I love better, the rebuild or the ride after?

Exactly which case are you talking about? The trans is part of the engine casing and gets it lube from the engine oil. Now the rear drive unit hub at the rear wheel has a fill hole on it that you just take out the cap and fill/check the fluid level there. Fill it till it runs out.

If the PO has let fluid levels get this bad then I'd be pulling the rear tire to get a good look at the hub splines also and relube them with moly 60 grease. Usual time to do this is everytime you replace the rear tire. Just did mine and they look almost new with no visiable wear. Pics of my cleaned spines in another thread.

 

[Bagmaster]

imported post

How about going into your profile and updating your location. We have members all over the world and you might have a member living close enough to you to give a hand sometimes or go riding with. You could be my neighbor and I wouldn't know it.