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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my 1984 Interstate.
She has just about 40K on her.
I rebuilt carbs, replaced waterpump, timing belts, Thermostat and hoses. She has a newly installed Poorboy kit on her too.

I captured this today and having never heard another 1200 that I payed a lot of attention to I am just wondering.
http://youtu.be/EgAgwwOrVWk

The pics are random from home last summer to new home and repairs mostly so you tube would take the audio file.

She has water in her and was fully warmed up. I kept rpm's from idle to about 3k. around 2k is where I notice the whine the most.

At 39 secs there is a blip where I paused the recording disconnected the Alternator voltage sense essentially shutting down the alternator load.

I have been into the timing belts and actually loosened them a touch to where they seem to be right at the loose side of the spec. used fish scale and tape measure to see just over 3/16" deflection at 4lbs on the scale.

I have went back in and checked it twice just to be sure.
When I had belts off, I checked the idlers they felt smooth made no noises and where not sloppy.

I am at a good spot atm since it would just mean pulling the radiator and dropping the alternator drive pulley.

Altogether it has maybe 40-50 minutes run time on the rebuild so not even much break-in time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A little history I should have stated above. The wing had sat for at least a yr prior to me getting her. She idled rough, and spitted and sputtered and generally was rough pulling from low rpm. Additionally, about 1 week after I got her one morning I started down the road got this loud squeal out of somewhere up front and then it quit by the time I safely stopped.

What I found when I opened her was telling. Carbs were badly out of sync and adjustment, and I had a torn slow air cutoff. The water pump was very loose and I saw rub marks on the back side of the pump impeller cover. The timing belts generally looked good and really didn't seem loose or tight but were replaced anyway.

So I haven't had a clean sounding wing from day 1 and now she sounds smooth generally and feels a lot more powerful although I havent ridden her yet. Other than this whine that I hear she sounds really good.
Since I am just at the point of coolant going in before I button her up more figured I would stop and get some experienced opinions.
 

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No.
Try running it without the drive belt on the alternator.
If it persists, run it with the tbelt covers off. Check to make sure the cam pulleys are running straight and not rubbing on anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I disabled the Alternator at 39s but I also completely disconnected it earlier.
At that point I went back in and rechecked the timing belts and actually loosened them a bit to the 3/16" point.
I had read too tight they whine, too loose they slap the case.

It did get a little quieter.

I also ran it without the covers and watched everything it is tracking good and true but just generally makes this whine you hear.
 

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The noise is not normal to any gl I've owned. If it does it with alternator belt disconnected, it's not the alt or charging whine. If the cams are turning true, and still making the noise with the covers off, it's not rubbing on the backing plates or t-belt covers. That really only leaves the tensioners (without opening the case). Use a stethoscope while running to isolate the noise. Or maybe just a rubber/plastic tube.
 

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doesnt sound my 86 1200. I have a 83 interstate that has a sound somewhat close but not that loud . I changed the stator waterpump belts etc. Still there and annoying but it runs great otherwise. JB
 

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Sounds like a metal to metal warbling sound to me. It is not the crankshaft unless a thrust bearing (if equipped) which you would see the crank walking back and forth at the front pulley.

Sounds like a cam to me, but could be any rotating part. You will need to get a listener Hunk of broom handle or pry bar and locate where noise is from the likely suspects. Water pump, stator, starter, clutch, cams.

Where is the noise loudest front, back, left or right. Use your hand to feel around those areas, guarantee you will feel a vibration where it is coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't see any walking of shafts or any variations when I watch it run without covers.
It did get louder when I put the covers on. It is more prominent on the right side.

I am thinking I will pull it down back to the timing belts and recheck tension. I have another set of tension idlers but they are also used and feel the same generally as this set.

While changing an idler would also change the tension just by default I may just back off the tension and reset it as if I was just applying these.

Question since this is an opposed 4 engine it refers to Cam timing and valve positions. Starting with Timing aligned at T-1 the "left" side cam is essentially at a lull (all valves on that side are closed) in the timing. If you remove that belt that cam does not move. So if I rotate the Crank 1 full revolution which is 1/2 revolution of the cams does that place the Cam and Valves on the "right" side essentially in a lull(all valves on that side are closed) in the timing.

Thanks in advance
 

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don't do it. if you line up the t-1 mark, remove the belt, and rotate the crank without moving the cam, you will drive the pistons into the valves. it depends on wheather cyl 1 is on the compression or the exhaust stroke as to what valves are open where. example: t-1 compression stroke, #1intake, exhaust #3 exhaust #4intake are all closed. move the crank around 1 full turn so cyl 1 is on the exhaust stroke and the other valves close.
 

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If and only if the belts are installed turning the crankshaft one revolution is the correct procedure to adjust the tension on the right belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks not talking about removing belt.
Not sure I was clear there.

First compare belt tension with each rotation.
Setup for replacement of belts.

Possibly take it to point of belts off and recheck the tension idlers
Reinstall belts and set timing and tension basic.

Do the rotation check to ensure it is correctly timed.

Set tension on left side per the specs and then once locked back down. Rotate 360 degrees on crank and check/set tension on right belt.

Honda manual talks around that second side and has you rotate the crank 360 degrees but never really discusses the actual setting if it's tension in either orientation.

Then manually turn again a few times to verify timing is in place.

Hope that is clear.
Haven't done but this one wing, however have done many other interference type engines, cars, motorcycles and ATV's and even done some performance tuning with degreeing cams so I know to go slow and cautious. It gets messy shoving valves into pistons or Pistons into valves.
 

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the whine could just be Harmonics coming from the new belts, and will diminish with time.

I had new belts fitted by a mechanic, and when I rode, there was a wicked whine, and it sounded like a new tensioner was bad, so I had the belts checked. all was good.

The mechanic explained it is harmonics caused by the new belts running on slightly worn wheels, and will diminish with time. He applied some belt oil to quieten things down, and he was right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I checked everything and readjusted my belts as described above.
Short run sure sounds a lot better to me.

I did run it up to ~3K and I didn't hear that whine or harmonic that I heard in the first video.

http://youtu.be/4RX0rqYBdM8

What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So now I am back where I started in this thread.
Poorboy is installed and connected, everything torqued and ready for the "pretty pieces"

I definitely hear a slight alternator whine which I expected but that nasty heavy whine I heard in the first post is gone.
http://youtu.be/fbzHy-JR6KY

What did I find?
The timing belts appeared to be installed too tight. I followed the process above and reset the timing belts. I think she is sounding good now.
I found this fully detailed process over on Naked Goldwings site. http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3544
It is written for the 1000. while the part numbers are different on the 1100 and 1200 the process is essentially the same.

It discussed setting the tension on the left and right at different T-1 rotations.

One small difference for my 29 yr old wing. I remembered someone discussing the springs being weaker now so I added a small amount of pressure with my finger to "assist" the spring while tightening the tensioner.

I seem to remember that correct Tension on the Left showed too tight on the right and then rotating to set the right belt correctly then the left belt felt too tight.
I would offer just verify it still is in time and don't worry about what it feels like as long as it is generally taught when it isn't the belt you are setting.
 

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Andy…

Thanks for letting us know what the end result was. It’s nice to see someone post that their issues have been fixed so that others can learn from it.

Put on the “Pretty Pieces” and enjoy!

Tim.
 
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