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I just bought my first Goldwing and the starter button does not work. I found a replacement unit at a local yard off an identical bike. My question, is there a way of checking to see if the switch is actually bad before I tear the faring off the bike and replace the switch? Bike starts just fine if I jumpacross the solonoid and runs great after starting. Thanks :stumped:
 

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may be just your connections... does it not start in both neutral and with the clutch in? or only one...
 

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It does not start either way, however the headlight goes out when the button is pressed, so something in there is working.
 

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Hi, I have been having same problem only intermittent. Have just got replacement switch but not been able to get round to fitting yet.
I have beem working on the assumption that I only have yo remove the false tank, not the fairing, so six bolts..two for the seat and four for the false tank, should be able to change the switch then.
I hope thats how it works, no doubt an expert will now put me right.:?:?:?:?:?:?:?
 

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Well, I replaced my '87 switch with an '84 switch. I just cut into the pigtail at the handlebars, and did a cut/solder. Since you have a same-year replacement, you can take the switch housing apart (snaps apart - snaps together) and just replace parts, if necessary. They are quite cleanable & rebuildable if you have the parts.

The '84 version is physically layed out differently than the '87 even tho' it is electrically wired the same.

I would recommend you check the solenoid thoroughly first. The solenoid coil on my bike shorted outinternally, thereby "melting" the plastic in the starter switch. When that happened, the contact alignment got skewed in the switch, plus the little pressure springs on the contacts were melted into the plastic, rigid.

If I recall, the solenoid coil should have around 3 ohms resistance, normally. Mine was less than one ohm, which drew too much current thru those little contacts in the switch. :waving:
 

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You need to check for power and ground at the solenoid before you replace anything. There is a green/red and a yellow/red wire going to the solenoid. The yellow red should have power when you press the button and the green/red should be grounded when it's in neutral or the clutch pulled in. If you have both those things then the solenoid is probably the problem.
 

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Well I finally had the time to check out the voltage on the starter solenoid. With the trannie in Neutral I checked the voltage when pressing the starter button and the meter registered more than 10 volts DC, on the Red/Yellow connection, however I got a similar reading on the Red/Green connection. I was using the ground post of the battery for the ground lead on my meter. I checked the Red/Green with an ohm meter to the battery ground and the needle read about 200 ohms, when the key was on and no buttons pushed. It appears the the switch is working to some extent as the meter reads voltage when the starter button is pushed and the headlight goes out. Sound like a solenoid problem?
 

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You should have close to 0 ohms to ground on the red/green wire and close to 0 volts when you push the button (with the wiring connected). Jumper that wire to ground and see if the solenoid works.
 

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David, I grounded that wire and the solenoid kicked in and the started started to run. Is this a solenoid problem or a wiring problem?
 

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Wiring, If the neutral light works there is a problem with the wire in question, a bad connection somewhere.
 

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Yep! The Neutral light works. I thought it might be wiring. The brake light works with the the hand brake but not with the foot brake. No power to the brake light switch. I am not a wiring guy...this could be a very long Winter........Might as well take the seat and top off and start running wires.

Thanks for the info
 

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I wish I had a decent 1200 wiring diagram so I could be more help. A lot of the wiring is similar to the 1100s which is what I am working off of but there are differences in some particulars. Have you tried connecting the wires to the clutch switch together to see if it starts?
 

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No I have not done that yet. I did get the seat and top cover off so that I can see the wiring. I see an awful lot of black electrical tape and wire splices. Not a good sign. I have the Electrical Trouble Shooting Manual for an 85 Gl1200. I just have a difficult time reading, understanding,and following schematics. This 68 year old head just doesn't work like it once did when it comes to that electrical type of stuff. If I follow the advise of an old electrician buddy of mine, who is no longer on this plane, "An Electrician need to know only 4 things. 1-put the white wire on the white wire; 2- put the black wire on the black wire; 3- payday is on Thursday; 4- The boss is an S.O.B." simplifies the matter considerably. :action:
 

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Well I thought I had the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual I downloaded from this site, BUT, It's missing pages 143 through 158, the entire starter section and then some. I downloaded it again just to make sure.
 

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Trikeman5328 wrote:
If you are having to jump across the solonoid, you have a bad relay. Either a or b or both.
There are no such relays on a 1200. The only relay involved is the starter relay (solenoid).

There is a diode in the circuit , somewhere, that prevents the neutral light from coming on when you pull in the clutch. If it were bad it would only start with the clutch pulled , if the clutch switch was working.
 

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If the solenoid and starter are good, unscrew the switch on the handlebar, split open and check the continuity of the button with an ohmeter.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
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I'll try jumping across the clutch switch tomorrow and see if that allows it to start. The button works if the red/green wire is jumped to ground. So I think the button is ok.

:stumped:
 

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maybe alittle different point of view, same thing happend to my 83 1100A, pushed the button and nothing but then if i played with the button it worked so i took the throttle caseing off and took the button out and took it apart. in case you have never done this here are some tips.. find an old white sheet and put it on the ground under the bike and also drape something white over the bike under the handlebars because the inside of the button has some very tiny contacts and if you drop one youll never find it unless you have something to catch it in... i looked for over an hour in the gravel to find the one i dropped my first time :D

if your button is like mine you have to remove the retaining screw and put a screwdriver under the button and pry up slowly and at the same time push the button in so that it glides at an angle upward to remove it, when u replace it push the button in also and then slide it back in at an angle.

when you split the contact box on the back of the button in half it is spring loaded so take it slow, very delecate work here and make sure u have your drop cloth right under where your working because you will drop something. inside the square part at the bottom are your contacts they look like staples there are two of them, the way your contacts are set up is that when you push the button the contacts move to other position which bypasses your headlights, youll see how it works when you get it apart.

i cleaned out my switch and adjusted the contacts so they were alittle tighter (using a pair of needle nose to adjust the width of them) then i cleaned out the switch and removed all the black greasy dirt inside there, then i put alittle electrical grease inside just a thin coat, it prevents arching when the contacts move to other position.

then replace the contacts and the cover, it will not go together if the bottom plate is not square, its tricky to get the contacts in and spring in and top cover on all at same time but with patience you can do it, i did just several tries. once its back together you can test it before you put it back in.

also i cleaned the connection that goes to my main fuse, there is a multi plug there just pull it apart and clean the contacts there both sides of the plug and put some electical grease on that as well.

after this i had no issues with starting at all.... it used to drag now it fires right up



hope this helps...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
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I don't think the button or the solenoid is the problem. When I jump the Red/Green at the Solenoid to ground, everything works as it should. I think I have some bad wiring......................................somewhere
 
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