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Ok so My bike will try to start with a new battery in it fully charged it turns over slowly and then drains the batttery. I boost it with a car and it starts. It now stays runing since i rebuilt the carbs, i still have to sync them. Once the bike is running if i turn it off it is the same problem. Now today when i was trouble shooting it got it started and then stoped it and now all i get is a click sound from the bike when i want to start it. Please help i really want to ride this year.



I am wondering if it is a starter problem and it is loading the battery adn then it gets hot and just dies. Any help would be appreciated
 

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Hello

I had a siminlar problem about a year ago. The starters on the GL 1100 are know for poor contact inside the starter. It has to do with the mounting plate the brushes are on. The plate is supposed to act as the ground and make contact with the body of the starter. A few years later Honda put a dedicated ground wire from the mounting plate to the starter body.

The starter is fairly easy to take out. You just have to lay on your side on the ground to get at it. There are only two bolts that hold it on. One you will need a unoversal knuckle between the crachet drive and the socket. It is the forward bolt. Disconnect the ground on the battery,. With the bike on the side stand remove the two bolts. You may have to take the shift arm off also. Some do some don't. Once the bolts are out slide the starter to the dron of the engine then tilt the rear end of the starter down and slide it out. It goes in in the revers order. DO NOT MOVE THE BIKE AFTER YOU HAVE THE STARTER OUT. FORWARD, BACKEARDS OR UP RIGHT. The starter gear may slip in the engine case.
Pull the starter apart, it is a good time to replace the brushes. They are only a few dollars. Clean out any carbon dust. Look at the mounting plate and check the side of the starter housing. You may see where there are some burn marks the plate make poor contact. You will also find some tabs or shoulders on the plate. They can be straightened to make a tighter contact between the plate and housing.

Others will come along also and probably mention some electrical checks that con be don't to confirm that the starter cable is not broken are warn, the starter relay is not bad.
NOrmally if it requires a boast to get the bike going and it is a good battery, then it would be a contact problem, ground or starter wire. Grounding is normally the issue.

You can check the electrical issues first. They are normally easy to do. A volt meter to see if the starter causes the voltage to drop below 10 on starting. You can check at the starter connection and then work your way back to the battery.

Good Luck

Brian
 

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So i tried to get the starter tested by putting the jumper cable on it directly and nothing. SO I am going to pull it out tonight and see what I can see.
 

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You might want to check the gears inside the end that goes into the engine. Mine stripped and I had to get a new starter. Two small gears run on a ring gear and the two small ones lost some teeth jamming the starter. Good luck.
 

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you rebuilt the carbs?...sure your cylinders are not partially filling up and taking it out on your starter?...anyway fix the starter and then let it sit overnight...pull the plugs and turn it over to see if gas squirts out
 

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Brian K wrote:
...
The starter is fairly easy to take out. You just have to lay on your side on the ground to get at it. There are only two bolts that hold it on. One you will need a unoversal knuckle between the crachet drive and the socket. It is the forward bolt. Disconnect the ground on the battery,. With the bike on the side stand remove the two bolts. You may have to take the shift arm off also. Some do some don't. Once the bolts are out slide the starter to the dron of the engine then tilt the rear end of the starter down and slide it out. It goes in in the revers order. DO NOT MOVE THE BIKE AFTER YOU HAVE THE STARTER OUT. FORWARD, BACKEARDS OR UP RIGHT. The starter gear may slip in the engine case.
Pull the starter apart, it is a good time to replace the brushes. They are only a few dollars. Clean out any carbon dust. Look at the mounting plate and check the side of the starter housing. You may see where there are some burn marks the plate make poor contact. You will also find some tabs or shoulders on the plate. They can be straightened to make a tighter contact between the plate and housing...
Thanks for explaining! One question, what is "dron"?:?
 

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Brian K wrote:
You will also find some tabs or shoulders on the plate. They can be straightened to make a tighter contact between the plate and housing.
I think the tabs fit into notches and are to keep the plate aligned and in place.
 

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Grambo
When I first did the carbs the number 1 cylender was flodding and spitting i took the carbs off and checked now when i got it started there was no flooding or smoke. Can you also please define waht you meant by spiting out. I am new to this.
 

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This may be very simplistic but I had a similar problem with my GL1100i.

After rebuilding the starter and checking ground and many other things the problem turned out to be this. You need to be sure that you not only have the clutch disengaged but you must have the transmission in neutral as well or the engine will drag on the starter.

When you add the power of the car battery it turns fine. I also was always able to jump start the engine immediately by rolling it a popping in to first.

Since I have followed this regimen I have had no more problems but if I forget, the engine tries to turn and then nothing. It won't even turn over like the battery has been drained.

Give it a try. It's cheap and if it works you've saved many hours and a lot of money.

:clapper:
 
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