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First of all I want to thank Jim for all his help on the scavange oil pump information. Without his help this darksided bike would still be sitting. Now she shifts beautifully.

Jim: You da Man!

Well I'm "testing" it and shaking off the bugs that she adquired while sitting for the last 6 months. Yesterday on the way home from work I stopped at Wallgreens to pick some meds at the drive thru. I didn't want to turn her off because lately was getting harder and harder to crank while hot. Since I didn't had my spare key with me and my wallet was in the faux tank, I HAD to turn her up with cars behind and in front of me. Yep, yiu guessed it right, THIS time it would NOT crank.I crawl all the way ti the window, got the meds, and cawl her around to the parking lot.

Came back later with the cage,hoping that cooling her down would do the trick again. But not this time.

Last year when the starter started to get weak,while I was rrplacing the Yamaha mufflers that the PO had on her, I went ahead and serviced the starter, didn't replace any parts, just disassemble,clean up, lube and reassemble. Great difference.

This time, while at the dark parking lot I got out the tools I carry in the left saddlebag. Before pointing to the starter I wanted to make sure the battery was OK. It read OK on the meter, but last year on my other bike I had a battery with 12.7 volts, but O amps. Among the dumb things I did, was the following: Disconnected the bikes battery and pinched the cables with the jumper cables, the other end to the car battery, with the car off, of course; except It was dark (silly excuse) and connected them BACKWARDS!!! For a microsecond,'cuz there was a big spark (even with the bike off??!!)Swap them around, this time no spark, tried, and the same no go.

So pulled the starter right there at the parking lot. Don't need to remove the engine guard nor the exhaust, the only thing to remove is the shifter.

This time no fancy serice/lube to the starter, just dissasemble, blow off the dust by mouth (no compressor available) wiped with a napkin, folded the three tabs on the plate where the brushes sit (the plate that's sanwiched) so the 3 tabs could make better contact, since they looked like damaged contact points, rubbed then a bit with the file on my multitool that's always on my waist, and put everything back together. I tested the starter before and after disassembly, by laying it on the asphalt, Black jumper cable pinching the body of it, left foot over the starter and right hand on the red jumper to the positive stud/nut. First it hesitated, after the "side of the road service" it siounded smooth. It was easier (luck maybe) to put it back in place than to wiggle it around the exhaust. I starts at the very first try now, just by tapping the starter button for a fraction of a second. The problem that I have now is that it keeps running after start up for a second. What did I burn when connected the battery backwards? Any one has had this issue before? I did a search and I found the 1500 with the 2 relays thread. Any can point me to the right direction?

Thanks in advance.
 

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you probably arced the solenoid but not from hooking it up backwards. The past few months of hard starting is pulling many more amps through the solenoid than it's designed for. It is probably well carboned up inside the solenoid and it will require that you take it apart and clean it. Use that file on the contacts and blow the carbon and other nasty stuff out of there. A light coating of machine oil on the moving parts and your good to go.
 

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Any one who can pull a starter and "refurbish" it in a parking lot should be able to "refurbish" the solenoid in his sleep.
 

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Something you might want to check too is to see if the brushes are making good contact with the armature. My starter stared dragging really bad and I found that one of the brushes was not making contact because of the way plate was designed. Dremel tool to the rescue and the starter work good for now. Just a thought.....
 

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A sticky starter clutch could be the cause of the run on.

If this proves to be the case a liberal dose of Seafoam treatment can free the clutch rollers
 

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Hey Bufallowing,



This article may shed some light on fixing up your starter solenoid. I wrote this back in April of last year.



Please read this article to give you a heads up on how to properly take apart and clean the solenoid. Please make note of the comment on not using any lube on the plunger.



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/90295.html



Good luck!



Tim.
 

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Great write up. I wonder why I didn't see it "in my lurking days" when I did several hours of reading every day. Now I only have time to read about 1 hour a day. I'll do the solenoid as soon as it sops raining. Got the CLR ready.

On the other hand, tricky gave me an idea. The oil is clean as it can be. I change it 3 times in 6 months puting about one to two miles puling out the clutch a good 6 times (I can do it in no time flat now) Until Jim's (GLGREZMONKI) post about secondary oil poump being the culprit of clutch creep. That was encouraging, so I poulled out the engine and yes the oil pump was glogged with a piece ot stator varnish cooked to a coal black color. So out went the stator, since PoorBoy's been in front of my left knee for abut 5k miles I rather not have the risk of another tiny debry falling off of the stator coils "skin" Thanks again to Jim, who suggested a couple of screw drivers to pull the stator when it didn't want to leave the rear cover.

Anyways I'm thinking maybe the starter is not perfectly aligned/centered in place, causing the clutch to stick for a second. The reason I'm thinking this, is that since this problem hapened,(36 hrs now) the starter allways sticks, and allways sticks for the same length of time. If it was the solenoid the time it revs after realeasing the start button would vary???(Just speculating here) I'll do both, but first one, test it, and then the solenoid, even if "centering" the starter fixes it, I'll still do the solenoid for peace of mind, and is always easier to do it at home vs the side of the road.

Gil.
 

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Hey Bufallowing,



Jims a great guy. He does awesome work.



There is a very easy, fool proof way to determine if the solenoid is sticking or the starter clutch. It's a very easy thing to do.



You could use a volt meter or a simple 12v light bulb.



METER : Set the volt meter to 12vdc and attach the BLACK lead to the negative battery terminal. Don't used the frame ground if you don't have to. This is a pure way to test everything including the grounds. Connect the RED lead to the connection ON THE STARTER.



12v BULB : Again, one wire to the negative battery post. The second wire connection ON THE STARTER. You can use a simple 12vdc bulb of your choice, a bit of old wire and a few old alligator clips. You can do a lot with this type of tester on the bike.



LOOK FOR : Look at the meter or bulb. When you push the start button, the light will come on or the meter will read 12v (or there about). When you release the starter button, the light should immediately go out or in the meters case, drop to zero.



If there is a time delay that matches your starter "run on" then it is electrical. Could be the starter solenoid or the starter switch. If your remove the test wire or RED lead from the starter and move it to the wire that goes to your solenoid from your start switch (located in the connector on top of the solenoid) and do the test again, this will indicate the likely culprit.



Testing the wire that come from the starter switch will tell you the bad item:



Instant on/off - the solenoid is bad/sticky.

Delay - bad or sticky starter switch.



Hope this helps.



Tim.

 

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It's probably an electrical issue and your testing should show that. There is a possiblity it could be a mechanical problem.
When the starter hangs does it stay at it's normal running RPM or does it wind up with the engine? If it winds up with the engine then the starter clutch could be hanging up. The usual problem with the starter clutch is the opposite problem - the rollers get gummed up and won't engage (starter spins but nothing happens). I suppose it could stay engaged and spin the starter with the engine. Usual fix for sticky rollers is a crankcase flush with Marvel Mystery Oil or Sea Foam.
 
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