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Discussion Starter #1
92 interstate.164,000 miles. Problems with the engine and transmission zero.

however the start button often does nothing till i push it several times.i sprayed wd40 around it and its better.but now sometimes when i push the button it clicks,starter turns a little.stops.

2 or 3 more tries and it spins good and starts. i had to replace the ignition relay.

Now yesterday it wasn't starting, just a click.
i decided to cross the solenoid posts with a screwdriver and it heated up the tip of the screwdriver glowing red.

i laid it down on the seat stupidly and it burnt a hole in the seat. i bought another solenoid but i am thinking the starter is bad now.

its too heavy to push start. i hate buying a used starter but new is $265.

One with 80,000 on it would be good enough.
i suppose if i change solenoids that wont fix it. but it was cheap. then i will have to remove the starter. maybe run a wire from my truck battery to it and see if it spins .

i hate trying to sort this out.maybe its time to part it out.
 

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That does kind of indicate a bad starter. Miles means nothing to a starter, it's how many starts.

When I ride I almost always put at least 100 miles on between starts so I expect mine to last a long time.
 

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Before tearing into the starter, , , Lets rule out the battery or any electrical connection at the start button, , ,

BATTERY: These 1500's are so dam power hungry at start up, I'd test the voltage at the batter with key off, , ,you're looking for atleast 12.5-12.7 volts. Leave the voltmeter on the battery as you turn on the key to check for how much juice the ignition/accessories are eating up. Now, still watching the voltmeter, hit the start button and see if the voltage drops below/at 10.5-10.7 volts. If the voltmeter readings are lower than suggested in ANY of the three tests, charge the battery or replace it if it is OLD.

START SWITCH: Most folks shy away from WD-40 for electrical needs, , stick with a can of CRC contact cleaner instead. Its better at cleaning and doesn't leave a sticky residue to collect dirt/grit afterward. You should be able to split that connector unit while on the handlebar and spray it down really well. The CRC will dry up quickly and don't be shy about the spraying of the cleaner.

If this does not solve your problem, ,I agree the starter is the next "culprit" to check.
 

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Thanks.no shops work on bikes over 10 years old here
An alternator/starter/electrical shop is what you would be looking for to check the starter and diagnose the problem. Is the vacuum petcock installed and functional? 164k miles is getting up there but being an I model it has no reverse time on starter. Replacing/cleaning brushes if needed would be the way to go.
 
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In addition to other suggestions provided......

Have you tried applying direct power from the positive battery post to the terminal labeled "M" on the starter relay A. This would apply direct power to the starter motor.

I know you jumped from the starter relay A terminals "B" to "M" but I would also do the above test as well.

Try this a few times as there could be a "dead spot" on the starter rotor. Such things can happen...!

You are probably aware the Interstate starter is different than the Aspencade and SE starters.

Based on what I read in your OP, you could possibly have a starter motor issue OR a starter switch issue. Its possible the starter switch could be sending an "intermittent" signal to "trigger" the starter relay A. You did say after a few tries, it spins and starts....!! Just another thought.....!

Let us know what you find.

Flame suit on.....!


.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok. I took the starter off.very difficult. I don’t know if it was the original.at 164000 miles it would
Be expected to be done.before I took the battery,tray,and starter bolts out I tried once more going across the solenoid posts.once again it tried melting my screwdriver. The starter was acting like on on a ford 289 I had.there was a bad tooth on the flywheel and once past that it would start.i suspected mAybe bad teeth on the starter gear itself. Once out the splines/ teeth look fine.i don’t know if I amsupposed to be able to turn that splined end by hand.it won’t turn.before I do anything else I am going to push this behemoth into my carport.put it on the lift. Take the timing cover off.make sure the belts didn’t break.if hey are ok then try turning the engine manually.if all is well replace the belts and the starter.
 

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92 interstate.164,000 miles. Problems with the engine and transmission zero.

its too heavy to push start. i hate buying a used starter but new is $265.

One with 80,000 on it would be good enough.
If you purchase a starter, make sure it is for a 1991 - 1996 Interstate.

Per Partzilla, the new cost is 895.82....!!

Where did you get that 265 price....??
 

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I wonder what they used for a starter motor in the Interstate 1500 model Gold Wings? I always thought the Aspencade, and S.E 1500. model starters to be bullet proof. Over 525 K miles on my last 2 1500 starter motors with zero problems. I keep a starter motor from a ``96 Aspencade in my garage w/only 6,000 miles since new that I have never found a use for.
gumbyred
 

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Have you opened up the starter to see what's wrong with it yet? Might be easily repairable, or at minimum at least rebuildable. Usually an automotive starter rebuilder will work on Bike and even Lawn tractor starters.

If it's truly seized might just need planetary gears, though I've never heard of 1500 starter reduction gears failing.before.
 

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I wonder what they used for a starter motor in the Interstate 1500 model Gold Wings? I always thought the Aspencade, and S.E 1500. model starters to be bullet proof. Over 525 K miles on my last 2 1500 starter motors with zero problems. I keep a starter motor from a ``96 Aspencade in my garage w/only 6,000 miles since new that I have never found a use for.
gumbyred
The 1500 Interstate fuel pump when it was still available was about $100 more than a fuel pump for the more common models with reverse. The Interstate model has no low fuel light and as such it needed no sensor on the pump. So an identical part minus the sensor cost more? Economies of scale at full play here which would include the starter motor. :)

The starter motor on models with reverse have two drive gears off the nose, the Interstate model one. I would surmise and confirm if I had one in my hand the regular two gear reverse model starter would work just fine in an Interstate, could be a Valkyrie starter would also work on the Interstate model.:cool:
 
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The 1500 Interstate fuel pump when it was still available was about $100 more than a fuel pump for the more common models with reverse. The Interstate model has no low fuel light and as such it needed no sensor on the pump. So an identical part minus the sensor cost more? Economies of scale at full play here which would include the starter motor. :)
That is true of a lot of things. Honda is really bad about having the same part under multiple part #s and wildly varying prices.
 

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You should not be able to turn the starter with your fingers but if you grab the spline with a pliers it should turn with some effort. Did you bench test the starter? Jumper from a good battery. Red to the threaded stud black to any metal on the starter housing should make it run. Don't let it jump off the bench. :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had the starter on the ground, off the bike.
ground as in dirt. i put battery cables.red to battery red.
ground to battery ground.negative post.
the remaining cable red to the starter post.
i don't remember what i did with the remaining battery cable ground clamp. i think i touched it to metal. anyhow the starter spun like mad.
i assumed then the starter isn't the problem so i put the starter back on .
only 2 bolts. i didn't put the third one in since i might be taking it back off.

Then i duplicated the effort as if it was not on the bike.bypassing the solenoid.nothing happened.
 
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