Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

1 - 20 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Alright so, the fuse is there and that eliminates needing to splice one in somewhere else. Do I just find a way to connect the Red/White from the rectifier and the solid Red from the ignition switch onto the positive terminal?

Also on the diagram, there is the two wires of Green/Red and Yellow/Red that go to/from the silicon diode pack and the Green/Red seems to go to solenoid only while the Yellow/Red also go to the Start/Stop switch, which goes to where?
The two blades nearest the fuse have constant continuity with the positive cable on the solenoid while the two farthest away do not have continuity without any electricity going through the system(haven't tried with yet, trying to get this whole thing correct), so I assume that one is a switch?

Please help.
-Drew
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,972 Posts
OK, you have it figured out, you just don't know it yet. The red & red/white go to the terminals that have continuity with the main fuse, the other wires, yellow/red & green/red go to the other 2 that do not have continuity with the fuse.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,527 Posts
Like so...... Both reds closest to the fuse. Other 2 in remaining terminals. No polarity just red in the back and red stripe in the front in any order.

2020-06-18_LI (2).jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,665 Posts
So the red white also has a wire coming out of the harness somewhere near the fake tank, what should that be hooked to?
Are you saying there are two Red/White wires.....??

Remove the 30-amp fuse.

Does the Red/White wire (coming out of the harness) have power...??

Does the Red/White wire (by the 30-amp fuse) have power...??

If so, that Red/White wire has power from the battery (with the fuse removed).

If not, then the Red wire has power from the battery (with the fuse removed)..

All the above to determine which wire comes from the battery and which wire goes to the ignition switch.....!!!

Note: Check the private message I sent you....!!!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,972 Posts
So the red white also has a wire coming out of the harness somewhere near the fake tank, what should that be hooked to?
That is shown in Redwing's post above. It connects to one of the hot terminals on the solenoid.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,665 Posts
Yeah I mean further up in the harness...
That is what I thought you meant. Actually "two" Red/White wires......!!!

Drew, The Red/White wire by the 30-amp fuse does not connect to the actual relay. It connects to the 30-amp fuse (in the fuse holder).

The 30-amp fuse is totally unrelated to the starter relay.....!!!!! It has nothing to do with activating (triggering) the relay or its function. Look at the attached picture.....!!!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The red white wire that hooks to the starter solenoid has another end that's coming out near where the coils hook up. They have continuity so I'm presuming it's the same wire, but be idea where the other end is supposed to hook to
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,972 Posts
The red/white (both of them) should go to the rectifier, which is to the left of the battery.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,527 Posts
I don't think you ever did mention what the issue is. Does it not crank with the starter? Does it crank but not start? Does it not charge the battery?


1) Getting basic why not try this? Do you have power at the ignition switch? If the lights work you do.You must have power at the red wire on the ignition switch at all times. If that is not the case you are dead in the water. The red wire carries power from the fuse in the solenoid to the ignition switch. Is the fuse good......not just there.

2) Next turn on the key assuming you have power at the red on the ignition. Now push and hold the start button. While holding the start button in check for power at the yellow/red wire on the solenoid. Do you have power at the yellow/red wire with the key on start button pushed and held in?

3) If 1 and 2 above check out take a jumper wire and short the green/red wire to ground. Now your bike is capable of starting and running if all else is well. In a nutshell you need 3 things to activate the starter solenoid.

!) Power on the red wire to the ignition switch.
2) Power on the yellow/red wire when the button is pushed.
3) A ground for the green/red wire.
Which of the above fails? We can work from there. Check back with your results and one of the guys will help I'm sure. :)


Your pictures are blurry but it looks like it is wired appropriately if it is wired as I show in the picture below. To me the first picture seems to show you pinching a white/red wire. Not a red/white wire. Not crazy about the butt connectors though. :rolleyes:

Screenshot (5)_LI.jpg
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,972 Posts
Red white is hooked to starter solenoid, same wires trails up through harness and comes it near coils area ish, by fake tank. Again..
That is a brown/white in your first pic and it's also a different gauge.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,665 Posts
Red white is hooked to starter solenoid, same wires trails up through harness and comes it near coils area ish, by fake tank. Again..
Red white is hooked to starter solenoid, same wires trails up through harness and comes it near coils area ish, by fake tank. Again..
Kool, On your 1977 Wing...........

1. A Brown/White wire powers the tail lights on the rear of the bike.

2. A Dark Blue wire powers the "High Beam" light.

3. A White wire powers the "Low Beam" light.

4. A Orange wire powers the "Left Turn" signal lights.

5. A Light Blue wire powers the ""Right Turn" signal lights.

6. A Light Blue/White wire powers the "Right Running" light in the right front turn signal housing.

7. A Orange/White wire powers the "Left Running" light in the left front turn signal housing.

8. A Green wire is ground to the frame.

When I added a "fairing" (with turn signal lights) to my '77 Wing, I moved the front turn signals to the rear of the bike (replacing the rear turn signals). That gave me "Running" lights on the rear of the bike. The original rear turn signals did not include "Running" lights....!!!

My bike was considerably more noticeable from the rear after that change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
:🤦:
I'll give some of this a try along with going through the checklist y'all have left me in dms, after some rest lol. Would make sense that I have practically nothing wired correctly then.
Dboh, any insight on my coils as well? Replacement harness has blk with white tag on it for coils and I think my ballast resistor may be blk and brown with a cloth thingy around it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,665 Posts
Kool, I never had any issues with the coils on my '77 Wing. I did replace the Ballast Resistor one time (don't remember the wire colors). Do you have a complete replacement wire harness....?? Is it something that looks aftermarket or "made up" by someone....??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Aftermarket/made up indeed, from eBay or some other source similar. Wires aren't the exact colors on some
 
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Top