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Starter system is just that a complete system with many interlocking devices all tied together to take an 1100 from dead to running. I am ignoring high voltage problems, gas delivery problems, and air problems and assuming we have fuel, spark and O2. That if the engine turns over at the rated speed by the starter motor it will start and run.
1- the battery is the source of power, no power no start no go. Start the process of charging the battery by an external charger and when fully charged check the individual cells with a hydrometer to verify each is charged. Battery voltage around 13 V fully charged, but more important is the state of charge, Specific gravity of the liquid conductor or electrolyte, around 1.25 -1.3. Also check the major cables +and- and keep the battery clean and the connectors clean. Do not use grease of any kind and that includes dielectric grease, never put anything between the connector and the posts of the battery, never carry the battery by the posts. Ground connections must be secure tight and clean, maintain them as you maintain the battery. Keep electrolyte above the battery plates, use distilled water only.
2-Main fuse may cause a problem for the whole electrical syetem since 1100 are from 1980-83, close to 30 years of service could cause metl fatiguecin a piece of alloy used as a fuse. They have a tendance to deteriorate and fail. Replace with ne fuse link or new type of fuse, never any bigger than OEM at 30 A, when installing any fuse verify voltage at both ends of the fuse.
3-Ignitionn switch or kill switch is there for your protection, never by-pass this device and verify operation in all 3 positions, if failed in a position replace or repair.
4- Start switch is an intermittant switch that you control. When pushed and all interlocks are correct the pushing action allows current to flow to the starter soenoid which is a big contactor (relay) that can handle large amps (100A) for the series wound starter motor. 7-8-The relay uses power only to draw in the armature at the end of its travel meshes with the poles faces of an electro magnet, attached is a cross arm holding contacts that close to control the starter itself. The starter button has contacts in it also that control the operation of the headlight. It turns the headlight off so that only currents flow to the starter motor, when the switch is released the headlight comes back on. Over time the large contacts get pitted or weld together, keeping the starter motor engaged, a dangerous event. Also the electro magnet gets dirty and the pole faces stick holding the intermittent relay in keeping the starter running. Check the contacts for pitting and check the pole faces for a flat machined surface and if there is a keeper wrapped around the pole faces inspect that this steel bandage is snug.
5-Clutch switch is an interlock that prevents starting the bike while in gear, pulling in the clutch by-passes this interlock. Verify this switch is securely mounted and test every so often that it is working.
6-Neutral diode allows current flow or stops current flow dependig on switches to ground, the neutral switch and the clutch switch, if either is operational you can not start the bike. But if in neutral gear position the clutch is by-passed. With the bike in gear and the clutch lever pullled in starting is allowed, too thick of oil in crankcase and too cold a temperature will cause movement. Safe is in neutral
7-8- see above. It is best to pull tis relay and inspect off the bike. Welded contacts can be repaired but it takes time and the shape of the contact is important, the coil assembly must be checked for integrity and the pole faces must be clean and square.
9-Neutral switch inside the bike at the shifter, problems arise between ths switch and the diodee giving a dim neutral light, a bright neutral light an always on neutral light an always off neutral light or something in between. A diode is a semi conductor, so is carbon. As such if there is an excess of electrons near these diodes or carbon there may be flow and this flow can be evidenced by the green neutral light. Flushing the oil from the transmissin area and crankcase may help, it depends how upset this device makes you.
10-The starting motor itself is a simple DC series wound motor and as such it works because it has a load tied to it. Testing this motor by running it without a load is useless because the armature and the fiels coils are in series. Revesring the + and - leads will not reverse direction of the moor. If you get here and everything has test OK, pull the motor and bench it. Disassembly is straight forward. Likely problems could be too much carbon dust, remember carbon becomes a semi conductor with voltage around, brush length worn out ( contributes the dusting), poor grounding connections, poor + connection, + post twisted loose, armature nicked, commutator not undercut between segments, dirty or bad bearing and remeber the location of any shims or spacers, the toorque produced in these motors is very high and oppasite to the rotation of it so that twisting effect must be held constant by bearings and shims, wrong placement of these shims or spacers can get this motor stuck.
Remember that all these components must operate correctly, in sequence for your bike to start running whever the starter swtch is engaged
Starter system is just that a complete system with many interlocking devices all tied together to take an 1100 from dead to running. I am ignoring high voltage problems, gas delivery problems, and air problems and assuming we have fuel, spark and O2. That if the engine turns over at the rated speed by the starter motor it will start and run.
1- the battery is the source of power, no power no start no go. Start the process of charging the battery by an external charger and when fully charged check the individual cells with a hydrometer to verify each is charged. Battery voltage around 13 V fully charged, but more important is the state of charge, Specific gravity of the liquid conductor or electrolyte, around 1.25 -1.3. Also check the major cables +and- and keep the battery clean and the connectors clean. Do not use grease of any kind and that includes dielectric grease, never put anything between the connector and the posts of the battery, never carry the battery by the posts. Ground connections must be secure tight and clean, maintain them as you maintain the battery. Keep electrolyte above the battery plates, use distilled water only.
2-Main fuse may cause a problem for the whole electrical syetem since 1100 are from 1980-83, close to 30 years of service could cause metl fatiguecin a piece of alloy used as a fuse. They have a tendance to deteriorate and fail. Replace with ne fuse link or new type of fuse, never any bigger than OEM at 30 A, when installing any fuse verify voltage at both ends of the fuse.
3-Ignitionn switch or kill switch is there for your protection, never by-pass this device and verify operation in all 3 positions, if failed in a position replace or repair.
4- Start switch is an intermittant switch that you control. When pushed and all interlocks are correct the pushing action allows current to flow to the starter soenoid which is a big contactor (relay) that can handle large amps (100A) for the series wound starter motor. 7-8-The relay uses power only to draw in the armature at the end of its travel meshes with the poles faces of an electro magnet, attached is a cross arm holding contacts that close to control the starter itself. The starter button has contacts in it also that control the operation of the headlight. It turns the headlight off so that only currents flow to the starter motor, when the switch is released the headlight comes back on. Over time the large contacts get pitted or weld together, keeping the starter motor engaged, a dangerous event. Also the electro magnet gets dirty and the pole faces stick holding the intermittent relay in keeping the starter running. Check the contacts for pitting and check the pole faces for a flat machined surface and if there is a keeper wrapped around the pole faces inspect that this steel bandage is snug.
5-Clutch switch is an interlock that prevents starting the bike while in gear, pulling in the clutch by-passes this interlock. Verify this switch is securely mounted and test every so often that it is working.
6-Neutral diode allows current flow or stops current flow dependig on switches to ground, the neutral switch and the clutch switch, if either is operational you can not start the bike. But if in neutral gear position the clutch is by-passed. With the bike in gear and the clutch lever pullled in starting is allowed, too thick of oil in crankcase and too cold a temperature will cause movement. Safe is in neutral
7-8- see above. It is best to pull tis relay and inspect off the bike. Welded contacts can be repaired but it takes time and the shape of the contact is important, the coil assembly must be checked for integrity and the pole faces must be clean and square.
9-Neutral switch inside the bike at the shifter, problems arise between ths switch and the diodee giving a dim neutral light, a bright neutral light an always on neutral light an always off neutral light or something in between. A diode is a semi conductor, so is carbon. As such if there is an excess of electrons near these diodes or carbon there may be flow and this flow can be evidenced by the green neutral light. Flushing the oil from the transmissin area and crankcase may help, it depends how upset this device makes you.
10-The starting motor itself is a simple DC series wound motor and as such it works because it has a load tied to it. Testing this motor by running it without a load is useless because the armature and the fiels coils are in series. Revesring the + and - leads will not reverse direction of the moor. If you get here and everything has test OK, pull the motor and bench it. Disassembly is straight forward. Likely problems could be too much carbon dust, remember carbon becomes a semi conductor with voltage around, brush length worn out ( contributes the dusting), poor grounding connections, poor + connection, + post twisted loose, armature nicked, commutator not undercut between segments, dirty or bad bearing and remeber the location of any shims or spacers, the toorque produced in these motors is very high and oppasite to the rotation of it so that twisting effect must be held constant by bearings and shims, wrong placement of these shims or spacers can get this motor stuck.
Remember that all these components must operate correctly, in sequence for your bike to start running whever the starter swtch is engaged
