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I'm restoring my 91 GL1500I and would like some advise as to what I should watch out for in regards to starting it. I've drained and replaced the oil and coolant, new timing belts and tensioners and plugs. When I removed the plugs and turned the engine manually water came out of a few of the spark plug holes. I put some oil in them all and turned the engine manually a few times. The water had no coolant in it so I assume it is from condesation after sitting for over a year. I also noticed a small abount of water in the oil when I drained it. I want to drain the fuel tank and put fresh gas in....what's the best way to do this? Any suggestions or anything I should look for would be greatly appreciated. Lastly is there a fuel cut off valve on the bike? If so where is it located? Thanks.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Hi Tally,

Check the tires and brakes first.

The fuel shutoff is automatic and allows flow when vacuum is present at that valve.
The valve is inside the gas door just ahead of the gas cap.

If it were me, I would siphon the fuel out of the gas tank with a hose.

Then add 1/2 to a full can of Seafoam and fill the gas tank back up all the way with fresh gas.

You want water out of everything else where it shouldn't be as much as possible.

Next I would change the oil as you said you already have.

I would charge the battery well and go to full choke and try to start it.

If it starts it will probably sputter and die a few times. Don't overdo it with the starter or battery. If it is troublesome, take a 1/2 hour break while re-charging the battery and let the starter motor cool down.

Then go give it another go.

Once you get to clean gas and Seafoam, it will likely do some smoking.

No problem just let it.

If it will run, go burn off half a tank on the road and then fill back up with just gas.
This will dilute the remaining Seafoam to the point where you will probably not be smoking anymore. Ride it as much as you can.

Then take it into the shop and check everything again.

After that you should be good.

At least that is the approach I would probably take.
 

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Well, I don't know if there is anything special on later GLs to watch out, but on anyearlier model the things you've done should be enough to safely start the engine. New oil (and filter) & coolant, new timing belts, new spark plugs, oil addedin the plug holes and the engine turned easily by hand- my opinion it is the time to start the engine (is the battery good)? The water in the engine I think probably the condesation, particularly if the bike was staying in a cold place. I think someone with more experience than me will give their inputs soon.

Good luck!

Alex


OOPS! While I was typingRudy alredyposted a more precisely answer that I told it will come soon....
 

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Monkey with a Football
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I'm closer to the server. :)
 

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Well, that's truth indeed! :cheeky1::cheeky1:
And my mistake again. I thought that you were in USA but now I see you are in Zimbabwe....well then maybe you are not closer!:cooldevil:
 

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Welcome Tally, It sounds like you have a good handle on things. Did you also replace the clutch Oil? How about the tires for age cracks and to check the date made on the sidewall of the tire. Did you remove the rear tire and check the spline gear for Molly 60 grease?After all that then keep a good ear open when riding to get use to the bikes noises and to hear if there is any odd sounds that should not be there. Enjoy and keep the rubber side down and let us know how everything went. :waving::)
 

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New tires, bearings, molly grease on the final driven splines and oil. New battery. I rebuilt the rear brake master cylinder and all calipers (front and rear). Didn't change the clutch oil. I'll have the look at the clymer manual to see how it's done. The bike is not to the point where it can be ridden yet as I'm in the process of painting the body panels however am anxious to hear her come back to life. I started on this project last may however had to put it on hold because the wife was giving me crap about starting a new project when I hadn't finished the renovations on our kitchen and bathrooms that I promised. I had already broken the bike down at that point and had to put it on hold. Now that I've finished the renovations I'm looking forward to getting the bike back on the road. Hopefully before summer hits as I'm in south Florida and winter is the best time to ride without being cooked. Thanks for all the info. I'll post some pics over the weekend and keep you posted as to my progress.
 

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all I did on mine was fresh gas, new battery, and hit the starter. that was after setting for 2 years.
 

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I tried to start yesterday. Bike would run for a few seconds when I poured gas down the carbs but that's it. It was encouraging though as everything sounded ok. I used two cans of seafoam....no luck. I pulled the carbs last night and will overhaul them. Hind sight being 20/20 I should have emptied the gas before storing for 18months. The parts will be here mid next week sometime so I hope to have her back together next weekend. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks again for all the suggestions. This is a great site.



PS...anyone have a set of carb balancers I could borrow?
 

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Monkey with a Football
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tallyho wrote:
I tried to start yesterday. Bike would run for a few seconds when I poured gas down the carbs but that's it. It was encouraging though as everything sounded ok. I used two cans of seafoam....no luck. I pulled the carbs last night and will overhaul them. Hind sight being 20/20 I should have emptied the gas before storing for 18months. The parts will be here mid next week sometime so I hope to have her back together next weekend. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks again for all the suggestions. This is a great site.



PS...anyone have a set of carb balancers I could borrow?
Actually, you should NOT have emptied the system of fuel because then the tank would rust. You should have left it completely full of fuel with Seafoam added in it and run enough to get it through the carbs.

That way no rust and no bad fuel later.
 

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i agree with rudy, were the plugs rusted on the contacts, if so i would put a little wd 40 in the cylinders just to prevent scoring of the walls.
 

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Tallho, don't worry about "Didn't change the clutch oil. "

All of the 1500 bikes just have one oil system for the crankcase and the transmission.

If you happen to remove the rear wheel to change a tire, then you will want to lube the splines with Moly 60 grease or better. Doesn't take a lot, just a smooth coating.
 

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I found that out after reading the Clymer manual. I greased the rear wheel with moly paste before installing. Thanks.
 

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How did you let a perfectly good goldwing set for 18 months /
Were you in a coma?
Welcome back to the world,
 

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I started restoring it last year (May08) and had to put it on hold after I started. If not I would have had to marry it.:shock:
 
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